Balmar ARS5 Settings

MikeHoncho

MikeHoncho

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Dec 28, 2015
1,850
Laser, Hunter H30 Cherubini Tacoma
I have upgraded my system to a single Lifeline 8D (255ah), Balmar 70amp alternator and a Balmar ARS5 with battery and alt Temps sensors. I have on order a Balmar sg210 (meter with BT). My boat is slipped with 30 amp service with a old Heart/Xantrex 1000 normally with 3-4 trips a year at a week at a time and the rest over nights and day sailing. I have 300Watts of solar with a MTTP controller. All have been programed to the generic AGM settings.

I have spent the past couple days researching the ARS settings and believe I have a decent understanding of the system but to be honest, I've become confused on the actual setting I should use with the ARS with my given amp/hours. A little custom advise is appreciated Mr MS.
 
Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

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Feb 26, 2004
22,776
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
MikeHoncho said:
I'm having a hard time with all of the discussions on amps but the setting are all with volts.
Click to expand
I understand and we all have gone through that stage. Pun intended!!! ;)

I believe the key to it are the graphs, which show BOTH V and A. Put the first two graphs together which will show you both bulk and absorption.

You're right, all a regulator can control is V. The spinning alternator provides the A. And MS makes it clear that the rpm of the alternator determines the A. So put aside all these variables, assume that the alternator is in a perfect world and is a constant.

Here's where, in my experience, it gets tricky. So many skippers are so used to leaving their docks with full batteries. You MUST think of it THE OTHER WAY AROUND. You have been at anchor for a night or two. Your batteries are drained to 50% SOC. Your alternator now has to fill them up. (Forget about your solar for the time being, too.)

The battery voltage is down because your SOC is down, right? This is graph 1. The engine starts (assume cruising rpm as constant, as I suggested before). The ONLY way the bank V can rise is if the alternator starts pumping in A. As A goes into the bank, the V rises. Until the V hits the regulator's GOAL of say 14.7V, the A stays as a constant.

Then, graph 2 comes into play. The V stays constant and A begins to decline.
 
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dlochner

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Jan 11, 2014
11,424
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Mike, none of this makes any sense until it does and then you wonder why everyone thinks this is so complicated and mysterious. ;)

There are 2 key settings on the ARS-5, one is the max voltage for the Bulk Phase which is based on the batteries specs and the second is the Belt Manager. The BM controls the max amperage which should be based on the amp hour capacity of the battery. Another way to look at the Belt Manager is that it controls how much of alternator's max output is produced.

Your alternator is capable of producing 70 amps. Your battery has a capacity of 225 ah. The max charging current for the battery should be about 40% of its capacity, usually written as .4C. If you do the math, the your battery can absorb about 90 amps in bulk (constant current) charge phase. Since the exceeds your alternator's capacity, you can let the alternator rip and leave the Belt Manager at its highest setting and just worry about the voltage which is pretty easy to set.

The ARS-5 uses timers to determine the length of time at each stage. If I recall correctly, the default for the bulk stage is 18 minutes, leave that setting alone. Set the absorption (constant voltage) phase to a long period, several hours. The article Stu referenced has specifics. In the constant voltage stage, the battery essentially controls the current the alternator produces. Setting the time too short will undercharge the battery.

Back to the Belt Manager settings. Not to confuse you, but it might be a good idea to dial back the BM a couple of notches. This will make the alternator put out a little less current which will allow the alternator to run a bit cooler. The battery will charge a little slower, the trade off is less wear and tear on the alternator.

Stick with the reading, it will all make sense at some point. It has only taken me a few years to finally mostly get it. And several very patient explanations from Rod.
 
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