I am installing a Balmar ARS-4 regulator on my 72 Amp Leece-Neville alternator that has an existing attached external regulator. I have two questions about the wiring that I'm hoping someone might answer: 1. The blue wire from the Balmar regulator is suppose to go to the field winding of the alternator. When I look at the alternator there are two blue wires from the brushes going to the existing regulator. I am assuming when I connect the Balmar regulator that one of those wires on the alternator should go to the blue wire on the Balmar and the other wire should be connected to ground. How do I tell which one to connect to ground? 2. The White stator wire from the Balmar, where should I connect it? Is it necessary? Thanks in advance.
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Check with Ron at Ron's Auto Electric
I had him convert my Leece Neville to external regulation and he has the adapter plate to do it. Follow "related link" to see my article Ron's phone number is in the article...
I had him convert my Leece Neville to external regulation and he has the adapter plate to do it. Follow "related link" to see my article Ron's phone number is in the article...
gnd identification
“...When I look at the alternator there are two blue wires from the brushes going to the existing regulator ...” Measure the resistance between each of the (2) blue wires to a good ground. The wire with the least resistance to gnd (zero ohms) should be the brush that’s connected to ground. The other connects to the blue ‘Balmar’ field wire (‘F’, ‘C’) HTH, Gord
“...When I look at the alternator there are two blue wires from the brushes going to the existing regulator ...” Measure the resistance between each of the (2) blue wires to a good ground. The wire with the least resistance to gnd (zero ohms) should be the brush that’s connected to ground. The other connects to the blue ‘Balmar’ field wire (‘F’, ‘C’) HTH, Gord
Tried that Gord...
that is what I thought too. But both wires measure a non-zero resistance (forget exactly how much). Perhaps there are actually two field windings in the alternator. Ever heard of that? The other possibility is the ground is completed through the regulator when its working. I was thinking if I were to just turn the key on the regulator should start to work and supply voltage to the field winding then I could measure the voltage on those wires. I'll try that today. Thanks for your reply Gord and thanks Rodd for yours too, at least I know this can be done from your link.
that is what I thought too. But both wires measure a non-zero resistance (forget exactly how much). Perhaps there are actually two field windings in the alternator. Ever heard of that? The other possibility is the ground is completed through the regulator when its working. I was thinking if I were to just turn the key on the regulator should start to work and supply voltage to the field winding then I could measure the voltage on those wires. I'll try that today. Thanks for your reply Gord and thanks Rodd for yours too, at least I know this can be done from your link.
Hey Rodd C. Great to see your still around
and slumming with us "blowboaters"
Last I heard you moved over to the "dark side" and are a motorboater now. (maybe you can stick a pole in that boat of yours and tie some old bedsheets and go sailing again ) Good to see you lingering on sailboat websites, shows your heart is still in the right place
and slumming with us "blowboaters"
Last I heard you moved over to the "dark side" and are a motorboater now. (maybe you can stick a pole in that boat of yours and tie some old bedsheets and go sailing again ) Good to see you lingering on sailboat websites, shows your heart is still in the right place Got it..
Luckly I had an old spare Motoral alternator that has only one wire blue going to the regulator. The lower brush was grounded on it so I assummed it would be the same on the Balmar. Tried it and it works. Now the alternator is charging great and not cooking the batteries like the old one was.
Luckly I had an old spare Motoral alternator that has only one wire blue going to the regulator. The lower brush was grounded on it so I assummed it would be the same on the Balmar. Tried it and it works. Now the alternator is charging great and not cooking the batteries like the old one was.
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