I leave my boat in the water most of the time. We only trailer it a couple times a year. Is there anything that will keep the tank from smelling so much. When I'm draining it we have to clear the area. Recent posts suggest bleach in potable water tanks are a no no. How about some of that minty smelling head treatment for my ballast tank. Will it hurt the fishies? "Festivity"
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Rick Webb
Bleach
I throw a couple of cups in mine and no problems. I also fill it with city water instead of the dirty stuff we sail in, maybe that is the difference?
I throw a couple of cups in mine and no problems. I also fill it with city water instead of the dirty stuff we sail in, maybe that is the difference?
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Ballast tanks have to be drained and cleaned...
A couple of times a year. What you have is a pond of stagnant water, sitting in the hot summer sun...breeding all the little critters that stagnant water breeds...turning into primordial soup. No wonder it begins to smell like a swamp after a while! Just throwing in bleach or a holding tank product--or anything else--and leaving it there only adds another ingredient to the soup. Nobody wants to hear that taking care of a boat requires some effort...everybody just wants a magic potion they can pour into the bilge or the ballast tanks that relieves of them having to do any real work. Unfortunately, there isn't one. You can buy a little time by dumping in some bleach, but the only way to keep ballast tanks, bilges, and sumps, from stinking is to drain 'em, scrub 'em with detergent and water (and ok...some bleach--but by itself bleach doesn't clean anything) and THOROUGHLY rinse 'em with clean fresh water every few months.
A couple of times a year. What you have is a pond of stagnant water, sitting in the hot summer sun...breeding all the little critters that stagnant water breeds...turning into primordial soup. No wonder it begins to smell like a swamp after a while! Just throwing in bleach or a holding tank product--or anything else--and leaving it there only adds another ingredient to the soup. Nobody wants to hear that taking care of a boat requires some effort...everybody just wants a magic potion they can pour into the bilge or the ballast tanks that relieves of them having to do any real work. Unfortunately, there isn't one. You can buy a little time by dumping in some bleach, but the only way to keep ballast tanks, bilges, and sumps, from stinking is to drain 'em, scrub 'em with detergent and water (and ok...some bleach--but by itself bleach doesn't clean anything) and THOROUGHLY rinse 'em with clean fresh water every few months.
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Rick Webb
Makes Sense
I tend to pull mine out every 3 or 4 months for one reson or another never considered doing it just to change the water but I will be sure that I do. I remember somewhere hearing of using swimming pool shock treatments, that may be an option to get it clean I would not leave it in however for any period of time. Now I am wondering how to get it clean if mine ever gets funky. somone out here must have been successful with clening one that started to grow.
I tend to pull mine out every 3 or 4 months for one reson or another never considered doing it just to change the water but I will be sure that I do. I remember somewhere hearing of using swimming pool shock treatments, that may be an option to get it clean I would not leave it in however for any period of time. Now I am wondering how to get it clean if mine ever gets funky. somone out here must have been successful with clening one that started to grow.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Pressure washer, scrub brush...
lots of detergent and water, Rick...think of it as cleaning the bathtub. If access to use a scrub brush is difficult, a pressure washer works just as well. Btw...swimming pool "shock treatments" are just heavy doses of chlorine...they don't clean anything.
lots of detergent and water, Rick...think of it as cleaning the bathtub. If access to use a scrub brush is difficult, a pressure washer works just as well. Btw...swimming pool "shock treatments" are just heavy doses of chlorine...they don't clean anything.
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Paul Jordan
The Definition of "Clean"
I don't want to be contrary or controversial, but I'm afraid I have to take exception to Ms Hall's statement: "swimming pool "shock treatments" are just heavy doses of chlorine...they don't clean anything." As someone who owned and cared for a pool for 15 years and currently owns a 240 with ballast tank, I can state categorically that if you treat biologically contaminated water with enough chlorine, it will be a heck of alot "cleaner" when you are done. Anyone who has ever seen a pool with the green tinge of algae and the resulting gray dust on the bottom of the pool after a shock treatment knows that chlorine doesn't just kill this stuff, it makes the pool ALOT cleaner. Were it not for the endless supply of new organisms and sunlight, one shock treatment might keep the pool clean for the whole season. Ballast tanks on boats are, fortunately, closed systems: you let the water in, close the valve, and no light or new material can enter. A good dose of bleach (I use 1 to 2 quarts, depending on the season) will kill the bugs and effectively sanitize the tank. Because the tank is a closed system, it will stay "clean" for a very long time. I last pulled and relaunched my boat in September 99. After refloating I treated with bleach. In January I pumped the ballast tank dry in anticipation of severe freezing weather. I watched with great interest the water coming out of the hose from my pump: it was clear and had no discernable odor. In short, bleach cleans it and keeps it clean. If you are a trailer sailor, bleach can still work for you; just add a small amount to the tank every time you launch the boat. I would be willing to guess that trailered boats are at even greater risk for developing bad odors than "in the water" boats due to the fact that the ballast tank port is left open to the air and there is bound to be some residual water left in the tank. As for the notion of scrubbing or power washing the tank, all I can say is that ballast tanks on boats are not potable water supplies. I don't really care if there is "inert" (read "biologically inactive") material in the tank. What I DO care about is preventing a nasty smell. Treating with bleach does the job, pure and simple. I am also curious as to how I am going to power wash or scrub out a tank whose only real access point is a hole on the bottom of the hull roughly 4" in diameter. Respectfully, Paul Jordan Mithrandir H240
I don't want to be contrary or controversial, but I'm afraid I have to take exception to Ms Hall's statement: "swimming pool "shock treatments" are just heavy doses of chlorine...they don't clean anything." As someone who owned and cared for a pool for 15 years and currently owns a 240 with ballast tank, I can state categorically that if you treat biologically contaminated water with enough chlorine, it will be a heck of alot "cleaner" when you are done. Anyone who has ever seen a pool with the green tinge of algae and the resulting gray dust on the bottom of the pool after a shock treatment knows that chlorine doesn't just kill this stuff, it makes the pool ALOT cleaner. Were it not for the endless supply of new organisms and sunlight, one shock treatment might keep the pool clean for the whole season. Ballast tanks on boats are, fortunately, closed systems: you let the water in, close the valve, and no light or new material can enter. A good dose of bleach (I use 1 to 2 quarts, depending on the season) will kill the bugs and effectively sanitize the tank. Because the tank is a closed system, it will stay "clean" for a very long time. I last pulled and relaunched my boat in September 99. After refloating I treated with bleach. In January I pumped the ballast tank dry in anticipation of severe freezing weather. I watched with great interest the water coming out of the hose from my pump: it was clear and had no discernable odor. In short, bleach cleans it and keeps it clean. If you are a trailer sailor, bleach can still work for you; just add a small amount to the tank every time you launch the boat. I would be willing to guess that trailered boats are at even greater risk for developing bad odors than "in the water" boats due to the fact that the ballast tank port is left open to the air and there is bound to be some residual water left in the tank. As for the notion of scrubbing or power washing the tank, all I can say is that ballast tanks on boats are not potable water supplies. I don't really care if there is "inert" (read "biologically inactive") material in the tank. What I DO care about is preventing a nasty smell. Treating with bleach does the job, pure and simple. I am also curious as to how I am going to power wash or scrub out a tank whose only real access point is a hole on the bottom of the hull roughly 4" in diameter. Respectfully, Paul Jordan Mithrandir H240
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Rick Webb
Thanks Paul
I was wondering how I was going to clean my ballast tank if I needed to. I guess I will not need to if I keep up the regime that I am now. As a person who deals with the stuff how much of the shock treatment would be necessary for the ballast tank. I do not need to get clean enough to drink from but if it were as clean as a pool that would be fine. Some places I've been the pools are cleaner than the local water supply, but we do not need to get into that.
I was wondering how I was going to clean my ballast tank if I needed to. I guess I will not need to if I keep up the regime that I am now. As a person who deals with the stuff how much of the shock treatment would be necessary for the ballast tank. I do not need to get clean enough to drink from but if it were as clean as a pool that would be fine. Some places I've been the pools are cleaner than the local water supply, but we do not need to get into that.
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Tom
Have used chlorine each season...
for 10 years with water ballasted boats in fresh and salt water. I add a quart to the H260, added 2 to 3 cups to my previous Mac26. No smelly ballast water at the end of the season which runs up to 6 months. I have read that the chlorine will corrode the stainless hardware in the valve stem, but have noticed no ill effects. fair winds... Tom
for 10 years with water ballasted boats in fresh and salt water. I add a quart to the H260, added 2 to 3 cups to my previous Mac26. No smelly ballast water at the end of the season which runs up to 6 months. I have read that the chlorine will corrode the stainless hardware in the valve stem, but have noticed no ill effects. fair winds... Tom
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Russ King
No "Shock" treatments
I think I was the one who suggested (a few years ago) using pool chemicals to shock the water ballast. Don't do it. According to a friend who worked in the water quality branch of the department of environment, the pool chemicals used to shock the water are basically bleach and chlorine. He once put these chemicals in his hot tub, one right after the other, and had to high-tail it out of there when the water started bubbling. Apparently, bleach and chlorine will react chemically, and chlorine gas (a poison gas, used in WW I) can be released. So, chlorine OR bleach, but not both. Chlorine is used to purify our drinking water, but it breaks down after a while; it can't keep water "fresh" indefinitely. Bleach lasts longer, but as every housewife knows (I'm trying to be concise, not sexist), bleach damages cloth fibers. Fiberglass is more or less inert, so bleach may not have much effect, but I wouldn't swear to it.
I think I was the one who suggested (a few years ago) using pool chemicals to shock the water ballast. Don't do it. According to a friend who worked in the water quality branch of the department of environment, the pool chemicals used to shock the water are basically bleach and chlorine. He once put these chemicals in his hot tub, one right after the other, and had to high-tail it out of there when the water started bubbling. Apparently, bleach and chlorine will react chemically, and chlorine gas (a poison gas, used in WW I) can be released. So, chlorine OR bleach, but not both. Chlorine is used to purify our drinking water, but it breaks down after a while; it can't keep water "fresh" indefinitely. Bleach lasts longer, but as every housewife knows (I'm trying to be concise, not sexist), bleach damages cloth fibers. Fiberglass is more or less inert, so bleach may not have much effect, but I wouldn't swear to it.
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Bryce Grefe
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Harvey Small
Tradeoff
Fresh water organisms by and large cannot live in salt water, and the reverse is true. So, every few months fresh water sailors should trailer their boats to the ocean, and salt water sailors should go sail on a lake or river! Now if I can just get back to the Keys before hurricaine season... Harvey Small s/v Waiting for the Sun
Fresh water organisms by and large cannot live in salt water, and the reverse is true. So, every few months fresh water sailors should trailer their boats to the ocean, and salt water sailors should go sail on a lake or river! Now if I can just get back to the Keys before hurricaine season... Harvey Small s/v Waiting for the Sun
Harvey, don't suggest that!
Harvey: I don't think that we should suggest that. I believe that is how we got zebra mussels in the great lakes. The other thing that happens is that the critters from other clime will die in the tanks and then we have a real stinkin' problem. I think that the bleach (not chlorine) treatment is still the best solution.
Harvey: I don't think that we should suggest that. I believe that is how we got zebra mussels in the great lakes. The other thing that happens is that the critters from other clime will die in the tanks and then we have a real stinkin' problem. I think that the bleach (not chlorine) treatment is still the best solution.
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Steve, why do you say "bleach, not chlorine?"
Bleach is a 5-7% (premium brand vs. generic) solution of chlorine and distilled water...
Bleach is a 5-7% (premium brand vs. generic) solution of chlorine and distilled water...
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Peggie Hall/Head Mistress
Russ, are you sure you aren't confusing bleach
with ammonia? Combining those two IS deadly...it produces ammonium chloride gas, which can kill you....but bleach IS chorine!
with ammonia? Combining those two IS deadly...it produces ammonium chloride gas, which can kill you....but bleach IS chorine!
Reply to Peggy
My main concern is that chlorine is VERY strong. One gallon of clorine will treat a 40,000 gal. swimming pool. This stuff is very caustic. Bleach should kill and disenfect anything that these ballast tanks need cleaning. Just my 2 cents.
My main concern is that chlorine is VERY strong. One gallon of clorine will treat a 40,000 gal. swimming pool. This stuff is very caustic. Bleach should kill and disenfect anything that these ballast tanks need cleaning. Just my 2 cents.
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Bill and Nancy Berg
Chlorine Bleach
We have used chlorine bleach in the ballast tank of our Mac for 3 years and now have it in the H 260 ballast tank. In the restaurant and healthcare industries, we frequently use a solution of 1 T. Clorox to 1 gal water as a disinfectant rinse solution, then air dry. This kills all bacteria. So, I keep my bottle of ballast bleach on board and when in doubt use the rinse solution on dishes, fruit, etc. BTW: we pour in 4 oz of bleach once a month to maintain a good level of chlorine in the ballast, but not strong enough to do any damage to the metal or rubber on the valves. Bill and Nancy Berg H260 Albuquerque, NM
We have used chlorine bleach in the ballast tank of our Mac for 3 years and now have it in the H 260 ballast tank. In the restaurant and healthcare industries, we frequently use a solution of 1 T. Clorox to 1 gal water as a disinfectant rinse solution, then air dry. This kills all bacteria. So, I keep my bottle of ballast bleach on board and when in doubt use the rinse solution on dishes, fruit, etc. BTW: we pour in 4 oz of bleach once a month to maintain a good level of chlorine in the ballast, but not strong enough to do any damage to the metal or rubber on the valves. Bill and Nancy Berg H260 Albuquerque, NM
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Michael Cohn
Makes Sense
The baking soda suggestion is excellent. It should alter the PH of the water toward base a bit, making it inhospitable to little creatures. I doubt it will do anything to already smelly water, but it may prevent the water from being fouled in the first place. MC
The baking soda suggestion is excellent. It should alter the PH of the water toward base a bit, making it inhospitable to little creatures. I doubt it will do anything to already smelly water, but it may prevent the water from being fouled in the first place. MC
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Russ King
Peggy, I defer to your knowledge
Peggy, I believe you are right. I don't remember all the chemicals that are used to shock a pool, but chlorine is one of them. But according to my friend, the chemical combination did produce a gas, which he assumed was chlorine. I don't remember all the details, but the main point is that a water ballast tank is a poor place to do science experiments. Any gases produced by the interaction of chemicals can get into the boat, and if they are heavier than air (like chlorine gas and ammonium chloride gas), they could linger for a long time.
Peggy, I believe you are right. I don't remember all the chemicals that are used to shock a pool, but chlorine is one of them. But according to my friend, the chemical combination did produce a gas, which he assumed was chlorine. I don't remember all the details, but the main point is that a water ballast tank is a poor place to do science experiments. Any gases produced by the interaction of chemicals can get into the boat, and if they are heavier than air (like chlorine gas and ammonium chloride gas), they could linger for a long time.
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Eric Gruff
Correction
Just FYI, hypochlorite (bleach) and ammonia combine to form chloramine, not ammonium chloride. However, the end result mentioned is correct - toxic gas. Never combine bleach with any other agent (except water). Its oxidizing properties can lead to some very unsafe conditions.
Just FYI, hypochlorite (bleach) and ammonia combine to form chloramine, not ammonium chloride. However, the end result mentioned is correct - toxic gas. Never combine bleach with any other agent (except water). Its oxidizing properties can lead to some very unsafe conditions.
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Eric Gruff
One more correction
Sorry, didn't read all messages before posting reply. Bleach is not elemental chlorine (chlorine is a toxic, oxidizing gas that is fairly soluble in water), it's a solution of sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl, if you care). Hypochlorite solutions are more stable and safer to handle than those containing chlorine. The bleach solution is useful for many of the same things as chlorine, but more suitable for household and boat-related activities. Please note, bleach solutions can cause violent reactions with easily oxidized materials, especially ammonia.
Sorry, didn't read all messages before posting reply. Bleach is not elemental chlorine (chlorine is a toxic, oxidizing gas that is fairly soluble in water), it's a solution of sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl, if you care). Hypochlorite solutions are more stable and safer to handle than those containing chlorine. The bleach solution is useful for many of the same things as chlorine, but more suitable for household and boat-related activities. Please note, bleach solutions can cause violent reactions with easily oxidized materials, especially ammonia.
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