Ball joint on the steering lever loose

[Windpilot]

I'm following, I would try a good torch (very carefully, sheet metal pieces for protecting other surface) and get a rust busting type spray in there overnight.
Does the rudder end joint come off, could it help with positioning for applying some force differently. I would think some appropriate tapes with a hammer and chisel in spots should free it.
Good luck, your dremel idea is good but would be my last resort, don't damage the bolt/pin its mounted on.
Wish I had more for you.
Greg

 

[ComoxSweetCaroline]

Hi Greg, thanks for the advice.
Before I left yesterday I applied deep penetrating oil and I've lined up a source for a better torch.
There is little risk with the dremel because this is attacking only the moveable rink around the ball (the old rod end exterior frame broke leaving the rest in place). The pin is well protected inside the ball.
Unless you mean I should be concerned about torquing the ball but the pin is quite robust I think.
I have the rudder end joint off already. This is in good shape, cleaned up and I intend to install this on the drive side, mainly because the new rod end I ordered is slightly different and requires some custom spacers and getting it in and out is much easier on the rudder end so if I want to adjust those spacers I'll do it there.
Sounds like you agree with the plan to cut a hole large enough to swap out the ball ends rather than try and take the console out?

 

[Windpilot]

Taking my 410 console off would be a nightmare, the hole idea I read on the forums seems so much easier, you only need to fill the whole drilled instead of who knows what else breaks, doesn't come apart easy. Time involved.
I always keep a good heat gun on board, it's come in handy sooo many times.
But for this, a propane torch is the answere.
Let us know how you make out, I'm also learning from you...thanks!

 

[ComoxSweetCaroline]

Progress today. Using a combination of torch, dremel and vice grips I got the bugger off. I had to score the ball pretty deeply in order to get the vice grips locked on solid but eventually it loosened up.The floor underneath is two layers of glass wood core and 1/2" thick but with a oscillating saw it was pretty easy to cut a square hole big enough to drop the nut and ball out. The replacement part at the drive end from McMaster Carr is #60685K14 left hand thread ball end with 94450A315 left hand thread nut. This needs two spacers which we've made using bushing 6391K204. As a slight bonus the rod end with two independant spacers is possible to re-install without cutting an even larger hole. I'll reassemble it all tomorrow.
The photo shows the now exposed stud, old ball with nut and on the right the rod end from the rudder end. This photo does NOT show the rod end I bought from MMC or the spacers. What fun!