Ball joint on the steering lever loose

May 3, 2011
21
Hunter 38 Montreal
Hello to all,

I have Hunter 386 2002. Under the pedestal, there is a bar that connects the rudder to the helm lever. At both ends of the bar, there are ball joints. See picture to see bar and ball joint.

Problem is one of the link pops of the ball (under the pedestal).

Can it be fixed by screwing the bolt on the ball or do I have to change the link, the ball, both ?

thanks !
 

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Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
where is the ball popping out... in its frame...of the bolt ..or in the end of the rod that it connects to...
 
May 3, 2011
21
Hunter 38 Montreal
Hello Woodster,

The end of the shaft pops out from the ball. Ball is OK and is not loose.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Hello Woodster,

The end of the shaft pops out from the ball. Ball is OK and is not loose.
then replace the complete ball joint ...no need to mess around with steering ...it always needs to be in good repair...you can get one at McMaster Carr or maybe SBO has them
 
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May 3, 2011
21
Hunter 38 Montreal
OK, this is what I was expecting ! Damn ! I have to remove the whole pedestal (console) !!!

thanks a lot !
Cheers
 

verdi7

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Apr 12, 2015
6
Hunter 41 Lake Tahoe,Nv.
Lewmar makes the steering system. Two years ago I had a similar problem on a Hunter 41. They sent me the
new parts free, they call it the rose bud link.
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,818
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Are you saying the threading ball part is stripped in the threaded part and pulling out of the threads in the shaft,if so maybe get a stainless welder but mark the proper adjustment and have the other end to adjust.
Nick
 
Sep 26, 2008
695
Hunter 340 0 Wickford, RI
Be careful of the threading. On my 2000 340, basically the same rod setup, two ball joints on either end. The threading of the ball joint assembly is reverse threads. Just a word of caution, check it out before just trying to loosen either end.
From your picture, it looks like the ball joint assembly is dry (free of grease). As a side note, this point of the boat needs to be part of the spring commissioning also. I remove the floor panel each year, wipe the ball assemblies clean and apply a light film of grease. The assembly moves slightly allowing you to get the grease under and around the entire area. Easy enough job that can save you a lot of hassle.
 
Last edited:
Jan 11, 2004
35
Hunter 340 Washington, NC
My tie rod end under the pedestal fractured and I thought I would have to remove the pedestal and steering post. As I could not remove the bolt as it hit the floor with not enough clearance. I was able to remove a panel in the aft cabin, positioned the steering bellcrank correctly and drill with a holesaw from in the aft cabin. Then I was able to remove the bolt and install the new tie rod end I got from Edson. I used the removed the piece from the holesaw and with it and 5200 sealed the hole. I may have pictures if you are interested, e-mail me at westabrooks@unctv.org
 
Jul 3, 2018
14
Hunter 386 Comox
Okay, I have exactly the same problem and worked out the same idea for a solution to get the nut free as Wayne wrote about in the last post. I hope I can still find a replacement tie rod end!
 
Sep 22, 2021
284
Hunter 41AC 0 Portland, OR
they call it the rose bud link.
It is also known as a Heim joint. I doubt that they were custom-made parts so the chances are that you can find a replacement at McMaster-Carr, Grainger, etc. You just need to determine the specifications: threaded end diameter, thread pitch, and handedness, the I.D. of the hole through the ball and the length from the center of the ball through hole to the end of the threads. I would bet that they are metric dimensioned but it is possible that they are Imperial threads.

McMaster-Carr Corrosion Resistant Ball Joints
 
May 20, 2004
21
Hunter 386 Melbourne, Florida
I had the same problem a few months ago! I got the joints from Edson----not cheap.
 
Aug 18, 2018
141
Hunter 410 MDR
Did you check with the hunter sailboat parts guys, they have most of them listed by boat model.
I'll go with the hole from underneath project when needed.
 

MFD

.
Jun 23, 2016
189
Hunter 41DS Pacific NW USA
I have the same problem and actually completely removed the rudder sensor rod a few years ago. The rod on mine has a bend in it that I at first presumed was for both ends to be 'level' instead of shimming things up (maybe no room). Then also wondered if it was a problem and was the actual cause of it popping off after X weeks/months.

Weirdly enough I was just thinking about this a few days ago. I found the below on e-bay but have other more important projects right now anyway.


Oh - I have a 2009 Hunter 41DS, original RayMarine autopilot still installed and this appears to be the part(s).
 
Jul 3, 2018
14
Hunter 386 Comox
Ok, thanks for all the replies guys. I ordered a rod end from McMaster Carr but I'm having significant issues replacing it. Here is what is going on - hoping someone has a great idea.
See the photo. This is the drag end under the pedestal. The nut (not visible, at bottom) is loose but can't be removed because of the lack of clearance to the floor. And it's appararent that once I get the ball loose I need a fairly large hole to get it out and swap the new rod end in. The area underneath doesn't appear to be structural so opening up a large hole is something I'm ok with.

Armed with best laid plans and good intentions I went out to the boat this afternoon. Ten minutes later I'm stuck with a major problem! I have some clearance between the bottom of the ball and the nut but the ball is seized on the pin and won't budge! I've tried heating it up with a torch but this didn't go very well. (A bit of wind today and my torch doesn't like pointing down and kept going out). I can't get a grip on the ball because the floating ring is still in place. I've tried to budge the pin up by levering on the nut from below but I believe it is press fit and very hard to move. I got a wrench in above the ball and tried tapping it down with a mallet, again no joy. I was going to try rotating the pin but I tried this on the other end of the drag arm and it's stuck in solid.

One idea we have is to cut the ring off the ball with a dremel tool and then try and get some vice grips on the ball and and see it we can wiggle it free. This won't be easy because the ball is very hard and the vice grip teeth won't easily grab it. Perhaps some work with a dremel to score the surface might help...

I could take the pedestal out and see if I can remove this assembly so it can be worked on in a shop but that is a big job and perhaps the last resort.

Great idea anyone? Thanks!

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