My H-30 is loaded down on the port side, and although I really don't have a noticable list, I can tell a difference tacking. On the port side of the boat I have a water heater (where the quarter berth used to be), the battery banks ( under the aft port locker) the water tank amidships under the port setee, and soon a new electic head, with holding tank under the vee. Sooo... looks like the easiest to move is the batteries, especially since I plan to expand capacity to two house and a starter. They will all fit I believe, under the starboard side setee. I guess I'll spend some on larger and longer cables, and I hope I can run them directly from under the setee, through the bilge,and up to the three battery switches which will still be located near the aft port locker. "This old Boat" doesn't seem to cover the problem of locating the batteries. Has anyone had experience running cables through the bilge? Is it necessary that I build a place to sit the batteries level? Mine are flooded. As I remember the starboard locker curves with the hull. Any other problems I'll run into? Thanks in advance for any shocking revelations. Hugh S/V Spotted Dog
Balancing Act
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There are differences
in your 1976 and my 1979 H30. We encountered this when you went looking for the emergency steering hatch. Anyway, My batteries sit on a shelf between the fuel tank and the engine. I have considered adding an additional house battery and placing it on the shelf and moving the starting battery into the starboard lazzarette. I would not consider running battery cables through the bilge. There's the issue of corrosions. And, as I recall, the longer the cable the greater the resistance. With increased resistance, you get more heat in your cable. You could get a drop in wattage. It might be subtle. Give Hunter Tech support a call. The issue of weight distribution effecting the way the boat tacks has me a little puzzled. With crew onboard, provisions, full water and fuel tanks the weight distribution shifts constantly. My 30 has always been stubborn about making a port tack. Mine has a small list to port, but I don't worry about it. By the way, did you know there is now a Hunter Sailing Association in Coastal Carolina. It is the Outer Banks of North Carolina or OBX HSA. Look it up in the HOW site directory and come onboard. There is probably a member near you that would be willing to give you a hand with some of your refits. Fair winds.
in your 1976 and my 1979 H30. We encountered this when you went looking for the emergency steering hatch. Anyway, My batteries sit on a shelf between the fuel tank and the engine. I have considered adding an additional house battery and placing it on the shelf and moving the starting battery into the starboard lazzarette. I would not consider running battery cables through the bilge. There's the issue of corrosions. And, as I recall, the longer the cable the greater the resistance. With increased resistance, you get more heat in your cable. You could get a drop in wattage. It might be subtle. Give Hunter Tech support a call. The issue of weight distribution effecting the way the boat tacks has me a little puzzled. With crew onboard, provisions, full water and fuel tanks the weight distribution shifts constantly. My 30 has always been stubborn about making a port tack. Mine has a small list to port, but I don't worry about it. By the way, did you know there is now a Hunter Sailing Association in Coastal Carolina. It is the Outer Banks of North Carolina or OBX HSA. Look it up in the HOW site directory and come onboard. There is probably a member near you that would be willing to give you a hand with some of your refits. Fair winds.
Thanks Mike,
the Hunter tech support is a good idea, and while I do have some small amount of space between the engine and the tank, darned if I'm going to put anything under there I ever want to look at, much less fiddle with. No doubt you're right about longer cables, but I'm not yet convinced that using appropriately sized long cables wouldn't work fine. I'm going to keep studying it, and will let you know. By the way, I do have a fitting for the emergency rudder. I'm putting a removable port in the helm seat so I can access it. Hugh
the Hunter tech support is a good idea, and while I do have some small amount of space between the engine and the tank, darned if I'm going to put anything under there I ever want to look at, much less fiddle with. No doubt you're right about longer cables, but I'm not yet convinced that using appropriately sized long cables wouldn't work fine. I'm going to keep studying it, and will let you know. By the way, I do have a fitting for the emergency rudder. I'm putting a removable port in the helm seat so I can access it. Hugh
Starboard Lazaret
Hugh, I moved my batteries to the starboard lazaret in my 76 h30. I found the shelf in the lazaret had alot of space under it and I cut the forward part out the was able to fab an aluminum shelf in for the batteries (2 house) and hinged the cover for the shelf. The only problem now is I have to remove everthing from the lazaret to check the batteries.
Hugh, I moved my batteries to the starboard lazaret in my 76 h30. I found the shelf in the lazaret had alot of space under it and I cut the forward part out the was able to fab an aluminum shelf in for the batteries (2 house) and hinged the cover for the shelf. The only problem now is I have to remove everthing from the lazaret to check the batteries.
I THINK I have the answer
At least in the opinion of WestMarine tech support, not only is it fine to run longer and appropriatly sized battery cables through the bilge, there's no reason why the batteries themselves can't be in the bilge, provided there's enough room there to fit them. He says that materials used now days for insulation and for battery casings is much more resilient, and can stand wet conditions, including an occasional soaking. He said the most important thing to consider is securing the batteries, wherever they are installed. I'm installing a dripless shaft anyway, and if I can fit two or three batteries in the bilge, I just might try it.
At least in the opinion of WestMarine tech support, not only is it fine to run longer and appropriatly sized battery cables through the bilge, there's no reason why the batteries themselves can't be in the bilge, provided there's enough room there to fit them. He says that materials used now days for insulation and for battery casings is much more resilient, and can stand wet conditions, including an occasional soaking. He said the most important thing to consider is securing the batteries, wherever they are installed. I'm installing a dripless shaft anyway, and if I can fit two or three batteries in the bilge, I just might try it.
West Marine tech support?
Hugh, I'm holding my breath for the responses to this question; some electrical engineer has got to post a response that refutes West Marine's advice. Personally, I can't see putting the very source of power that's going to run the bilge pump (and remove any flooding waters...) in the bilge. I had a catastrophic disaster with my dripless shaft, whereby the nice rubber seal waa ripped open. Water everywhere and it filled the bilge mghty fast. I'd hate to think what would have happened if the batteries were also immersed; I'm sure we'd have sunk if the batteries were shorted out at the very time I needed them. But I await a more knowledgeable retort from one of the regulars....
Hugh, I'm holding my breath for the responses to this question; some electrical engineer has got to post a response that refutes West Marine's advice. Personally, I can't see putting the very source of power that's going to run the bilge pump (and remove any flooding waters...) in the bilge. I had a catastrophic disaster with my dripless shaft, whereby the nice rubber seal waa ripped open. Water everywhere and it filled the bilge mghty fast. I'd hate to think what would have happened if the batteries were also immersed; I'm sure we'd have sunk if the batteries were shorted out at the very time I needed them. But I await a more knowledgeable retort from one of the regulars....
relocating batteries
Hugh, you should never put flooded batteries, which are vented and can outgas hydrogen, in an interior space. If you change to AGMs, which are sealed and can even be used inverted, it would be ok to place them below the settee. However, I personally agree with Phitchcox-I would want to protect my engine start and/or bilge pump batteries from a flooded bilge at all costs. If you can fit a waterproof box (I think the bluesea boxes can be sealed) with AGMs that would work. As far as the cables are concerned, as long as you use large enough cables the drop should be minimal-but you might have to go to a 0 or 00 cable, which is $$$
Hugh, you should never put flooded batteries, which are vented and can outgas hydrogen, in an interior space. If you change to AGMs, which are sealed and can even be used inverted, it would be ok to place them below the settee. However, I personally agree with Phitchcox-I would want to protect my engine start and/or bilge pump batteries from a flooded bilge at all costs. If you can fit a waterproof box (I think the bluesea boxes can be sealed) with AGMs that would work. As far as the cables are concerned, as long as you use large enough cables the drop should be minimal-but you might have to go to a 0 or 00 cable, which is $$$
PHitchcox , I would like to hear the details
on your dripless shaft failure. Maybe start another thread. Agree with you that putting batteries in the bilge is not the best idea from a safety standpoint. Salt water plus batteries gives chlorine gas plus or should I say minus dc power to run lights and bilge pump. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out. If there is a waterproof box, maybe - but you want to be careful that the wires are well insulated and waterproof with no breaks in the cover.
on your dripless shaft failure. Maybe start another thread. Agree with you that putting batteries in the bilge is not the best idea from a safety standpoint. Salt water plus batteries gives chlorine gas plus or should I say minus dc power to run lights and bilge pump. Doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure that out. If there is a waterproof box, maybe - but you want to be careful that the wires are well insulated and waterproof with no breaks in the cover.
On my 79 H30....
I replaced the shelf under the fuel tank and extended it. I put two 8D batteries under there. Then added a starting batery, group 51 next to the engine on the starboard side. Under the Starboard sette I put a 33 gal Vetus flexible water tank. Realy helped the tenderness with both tanks full. Pat
I replaced the shelf under the fuel tank and extended it. I put two 8D batteries under there. Then added a starting batery, group 51 next to the engine on the starboard side. Under the Starboard sette I put a 33 gal Vetus flexible water tank. Realy helped the tenderness with both tanks full. Pat
Dripless Stuffing Box - a story...
Patrick, I put my story about the dripless stuffing box in the "Mid-Size Boats" forum, referencing my Hunter 290. Happy sailing.
Patrick, I put my story about the dripless stuffing box in the "Mid-Size Boats" forum, referencing my Hunter 290. Happy sailing.
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