I'm contemplating installing a tank level sending guage in the aluminum water tank in the bow under the v-berth. Before I start with the hole saw does anyone know for sure whether or not there are any baffles in that tank. There's a plywood access hatch in the v-berth glass to access the top of the tank and it's large enough to give me access to "most" of the top of the tank but a little bit of guidance as to where to drill would be helpful.
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Highly unlikely that the tank is baffled
I've never seen a production tank 75 gallons that was baffled. However, if you want to be 100% certain, call Hunter and ask them if any of their water tanks are baffled.
I've never seen a production tank 75 gallons that was baffled. However, if you want to be 100% certain, call Hunter and ask them if any of their water tanks are baffled.
I tried Hunter and they don't know.
Peggy, The first thing I did was call Hunter. At this point, 21 years after mgfr., they really don't know. And they said that the vendor who originally made the tank is not in business anymore. BTW, I wish it were a 75 gal. tank! Unfortunately it's only a 50 gal. tank, at least according to the owners manual. I'm going to attempt the project today, maybe, and I'll post what I find.
Peggy, The first thing I did was call Hunter. At this point, 21 years after mgfr., they really don't know. And they said that the vendor who originally made the tank is not in business anymore. BTW, I wish it were a 75 gal. tank! Unfortunately it's only a 50 gal. tank, at least according to the owners manual. I'm going to attempt the project today, maybe, and I'll post what I find.
No help, but. . .
I can tell you that Hunter did use baffles in the aluminum water tanks. The H37C has two fifty gallon tanks, one under each settee. Those tanks have two baffles each. So I would guess the H33 tank must have at least one. I cut a cleanout port in my 50 gallon diesel tank only to find out I was on the wrong side of a baffle. So I just cut a second one. You might be able to find one by tapping with something across the top very carefully. But I doubt it.
I can tell you that Hunter did use baffles in the aluminum water tanks. The H37C has two fifty gallon tanks, one under each settee. Those tanks have two baffles each. So I would guess the H33 tank must have at least one. I cut a cleanout port in my 50 gallon diesel tank only to find out I was on the wrong side of a baffle. So I just cut a second one. You might be able to find one by tapping with something across the top very carefully. But I doubt it.
Wrong Again, Peggy
There IS a baffle running transversely across the tank just where you want to cut in. It's top edge is about 1/2" below the top surface of the tank and goes to about 1/2" from the bottom. I learned this while cutting a hole for a Beckson cleanout/inspection port. If you use the Beckson port with the clear cover the electric guage becomes un-necessary. Even I am not too lazy to go forward and look inside the tank! I can get digital pictures of it this weekend if you like, if you're not in too much of a hurry. (Seems to be yet another instance where we have tackled the same problems, eh Steve?)
There IS a baffle running transversely across the tank just where you want to cut in. It's top edge is about 1/2" below the top surface of the tank and goes to about 1/2" from the bottom. I learned this while cutting a hole for a Beckson cleanout/inspection port. If you use the Beckson port with the clear cover the electric guage becomes un-necessary. Even I am not too lazy to go forward and look inside the tank! I can get digital pictures of it this weekend if you like, if you're not in too much of a hurry. (Seems to be yet another instance where we have tackled the same problems, eh Steve?)
It's a done deal!
Sam's right. I did the "tap, tap, tap" exercise and found those baffles right where Sam said they were. I ended up drilling a 2-1/2" hole in the starboard, aft corner. Trying to fit the float arm and channel only gave me one direction to aim it, diagonally forward to port. That's when I also discovered that not only is the tank trapizoidal in plan view, but also the bottom slopes in a deep v towards the centerline. Obviously to fit snug in that bow section. After hooking up the guage and filling the tank the guage only showed 1/2 full. So I took the sending unit out and cut the float arm back about 6" and tried for another reading. Now it showed full. What happened the first try was that the float arm was hitting the baffle stopping it from floating up to the full "F" position. The shorter float arm solved that problem. Now I've got a functioning water guage. Whew!
Sam's right. I did the "tap, tap, tap" exercise and found those baffles right where Sam said they were. I ended up drilling a 2-1/2" hole in the starboard, aft corner. Trying to fit the float arm and channel only gave me one direction to aim it, diagonally forward to port. That's when I also discovered that not only is the tank trapizoidal in plan view, but also the bottom slopes in a deep v towards the centerline. Obviously to fit snug in that bow section. After hooking up the guage and filling the tank the guage only showed 1/2 full. So I took the sending unit out and cut the float arm back about 6" and tried for another reading. Now it showed full. What happened the first try was that the float arm was hitting the baffle stopping it from floating up to the full "F" position. The shorter float arm solved that problem. Now I've got a functioning water guage. Whew!
not baffled
Hi Steve, while investigating another problem on my '95 336 yesterday, I did take apart the v-berth in order to remove the water tank sensor which hasn't worked all season. I found it had broken off from cap and was sitting on bottom of tank. I mentioned to guy with me that tank should be baffled to prevent the sloshing that might have been responsible for breaking off the sensor. Tank is not baffled. Bob Pilgim
Hi Steve, while investigating another problem on my '95 336 yesterday, I did take apart the v-berth in order to remove the water tank sensor which hasn't worked all season. I found it had broken off from cap and was sitting on bottom of tank. I mentioned to guy with me that tank should be baffled to prevent the sloshing that might have been responsible for breaking off the sensor. Tank is not baffled. Bob Pilgim
Ed, you _can_ tell by thumping
the top of the tank. I found (heard, actually) one athwartships smack in the middle. I emptied the tank and then started tapping and got 'clang, 'clang, 'clang, 'thunk, 'clang, etc. When I drilled the hole and inserted the float arm, sure enough, it found a baffle right where the 'thunk was.
the top of the tank. I found (heard, actually) one athwartships smack in the middle. I emptied the tank and then started tapping and got 'clang, 'clang, 'clang, 'thunk, 'clang, etc. When I drilled the hole and inserted the float arm, sure enough, it found a baffle right where the 'thunk was.
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