Bad Yanmar Impeller

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May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Over the weekend I had a nearly new Yanmar impeller spin the center hub and quit working. Have attached a pic of the offending part, with the hub removed. Has anyone ever seen this before, and if so any special circumstances. I found nothing in the pump, that could have caused it to try to hang up and spin the hub. I guess it is possible, but sure didn't find anything. Of greater interest to me, is there is no sign of any bonding between the hub and the impeller body. No sign of high temps that would leave some burnt neopreme on the hub. Would not think these are just a press fit, with out some type of bonding agent. The hub pushed out very easily, so there is certainly something that either I or the mfg. missed. Ideas welcome, and I am going to take this with me to the Yanmar dist. here, when I replace it, and see if they have anything to say.
 

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Sep 20, 2006
2,952
Hunter 33 Georgian Bay, Ontario, Canada
Interesting. I replaced mine in the fall, just before haul-out, and haven't run the engine much since. It will be at the top of my spring list to check. It is a Yanmar part as well.

You may want to contact or e-mail the pics to Yanmar themselves.

Yanmar headquarters North and South America

Adairsville Yanmar Marine USA Corp. 101 International Parkway
GA 30103 Adairsville
770-877-9894
770-877-7565
service at yanmar-yma dot com
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Always carry a spare. I change mine every year and keep the old as a spare.

How about this scenario: You picked up a plastic bag on the intake that restricted the flow of water. The strain on the impellor caused it to fail. When you shut down the engine, the suction on the bag was released and it floated away.

Something similar happened to me last season. I picked up something(maybe a bag) that restricted the intake causing an old hose to collapse. The hose appeared fine when the engine was shutdown(bag must have released from the hull). Every time I ran the engine at cruising speed, the hose would collapse again. I could rev the engine a few times to get it opened up temporarily. I replaced the hose as soon as I figured out what was happening.
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,346
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
I think I mentioned this once before in another discussion that I too have had this happen. It can be a frustrating experience as in my case, there was no apparent problem with the pump and everything appeared to work except no water. It didn't occur to me that this separation was possible until I ripped the entire cooling system apart before finally realizing it was the impeller which appeared to be fine until I tried running it with the cover off.
I should mention this only happened once to me but now, I always add to my routine maintenance procedures to check the rub/impeller bond.
 
Jan 1, 2009
371
Atlantic 42 Honolulu
I just pulled one of my spares out (Johnson pump 09-810B-1) I think it is the same or similar to what you have. I notice that the bolt that goes through the hub is flush with the rubber on both sides. As I recall this is standard for the type. I assume the pin in yours is much shorter or it would have torn-up the rubber when it spun. Maybe yours is not a genuine Johnson part -- it should have Johnson and the part number on the hub.

--Tom.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,701
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I've had

I've had that happen but only with the aftermarket Globe brand impellers. As TMS said some of the Johnson impellers have the bolt that goes through the hub and rubber..
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,996
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Many bits and pieces to cooling systems

My first though, Phil, was that it was a blockage in your HX inlet port, but then realized your Yanmars are different than our Universal "bolted on" external HXs because we Universal guys have "marinized" tractor engines!

While not specifically an impeller story, this is one of our experiences that may help someone in the future, kinda related to Tim's reply:

Among the interesting little “tidbits” of information that I’d remembered reading about on the C34 website had to do with cleaning out the raw water intake with a dinghy foot pump. On a nice mid-winter March sail with Ken Heyman, our treasurer who was here visiting, we had just left the South Beach Marina and were motoring over to see the “Lady Washington,” one of the tallships that regularly visits the Bay Area and has cannonball encounters of the close kind with fellow tallships. Since it was cold out, there seemed to be a bit more white smoke from the exhaust than usual, which I attributed to the lower air temperature. Upon checking the temperature gauge, we noted it was pegged and stopped the engine immediately. Ken and I went through a checklist of actions we could take. Sailing back to the marina was not among them, since there was no wind and the end of the ebb was setting us north towards the Bay Bridge. Thru hull strainer clear – check. Raw water entering – check, but a trickle and less than expected. Raw water pump impeller in one piece – check. Raw water pump turning – check. Spare raw water pump gasket to replace cover – check. Temperature gauge working properly – check. Hoses and thru hull clear – hmm… We got the dinghy foot pump out from the lazarette, replaced the strainer and opened the seacock. Because the arrangement of the hoses and the strainer on “Aquavite” aren’t configured to connect the pump there, we removed the hose from the raw water pump and used the dinghy pump at that end of the hose. That turned out to be actually be easier than trying to work under the head sink. There was significant resistance at first, but after setting the three way valve on the foot pump to a higher pressure setting, the pump started working. Whatever had been clogging either the thru hull or the line was flushed out. Once everything was reassembled, we started the engine and all was well. Lesson Learned: It pays to read the material on the website because you just never know when you’ll be faced with an insurmountable problem only to find out that one of our skippers had “been there – done that” and had most importantly reported it for all of us to know. Thanks to Ken for his analytical assistance!
 

Rick D

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Jun 14, 2008
7,182
Hunter Legend 40.5 Shoreline Marina Long Beach CA
Some years ago, Yanmar had a run of impellers with faulty bonding that would do as yours has done. May have been one of those that finally gave it up.
 

Benny

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Sep 27, 2008
1,149
Hunter 320 Tampa, FL
Manufacturing mistakes happen. Take it back to your Yanmar dealer and get your money back. We expect our impellers to loose vanes and clog our cooling lines not to spin on their hubs.
 
Apr 6, 2007
54
Hunter 38 Owen Sound, Ontario
I have had a replacement impeller fail quickly on an old Volvo engine. In that case I was suspicious that it was because the replacement had been kicking around in my tool kit for years. I have a friend who stores his spare impellers in a zip-lock bag after liberally coating them with dish soap. I now just replace the impeller as part of routine maintainance so my spare is never too old.
You may want to consider using a Johnson impeller rather than the Yanmar part. I found a Johnson impeller on our boat when we bought it at a year old and am suspicious that it was the original "factory" impeller. The Johnson impellers come with the pump cover o-ring and a packet of lubricant. Johnson also has the option of going with a Nitrile material which may be worth the extra few dollars. Very subjective and I'm not an expert but looks better quality than the Yanmar part.
Also had a problem with our local, Ontario, Yanmar dealers having the wrong part# for our 3JH4E impeller! So may be worth double checking with Yanmar North America for the correct part number.
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,055
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Nice/Easy.. I was talking to another guy from Mandeville who does some diesel work and he said that he's seen this failed bond thing before on a Yanmar impeller. It would have taken me a while to get that one, so thanks for posting.. If she overheats, it will be checked!
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
New Impellers

Went over to LaBorde ( Yanmar Dist. ) yesterday, and got replacement impellers. They don't even want to talk about failures. Totally non commital, and about the only thing they had to say was how long ago did I buy it. Kept telling the guy I didn't give a rip about any warranty, just wanted to know if there had been failures. Just a blank stare. I did buy two impellers, and two different brands. One Yanmar, and one for a Johnson pump. The Yanmar impeller is just like the one that failed, but the Johnson impeller has the screw through the rubber and the hub. Seems much more secure to me. Other than that they are identical, except that with the Yanmar you get the impeller in a little baggie. With the Johnson you get an impeller in a box, along with an instruction sheet, which I have yet to read, and a little tube of lube. Exact same price. Will probably not buy another Yanmar, as the Johnson sure looks to be a better mousetrap.
 
Jan 1, 2009
371
Atlantic 42 Honolulu
One Yanmar, and one for a Johnson pump.

With the Johnson you get an impeller in a box, along with an instruction sheet, which I have yet to read, and a little tube of lube. Exact same price. Will probably not buy another Yanmar, as the Johnson sure looks to be a better mousetrap.
FWIW, the Johnson part is OEM. Johnson makes the pumps, not Ұanmar. Who knows what the Yanmar part is -- be happy they didn't paint it. :)

--Tom.
 
May 11, 2005
3,431
Seidelman S37 Slidell, La.
Impellers

Both impellers came from LaBorde. Both same price. If you like, I can dig them out and give part numbers. As I stated, think from this day forward, will only use the Johnson parts. I think that the Yanmar part is made to their specs by someone else. At least it isn't painted.
 
Sep 25, 2008
385
Harpoon 5.2 Honolulu, HI
I had the same thing happen on my 1GM, which is raw water cooled. Didn't find any issues or blockages, I think it was just a failure. Always keep a spare (or three) and I personally always check the impeller first if the overheat alarm comes on.
 
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