A bad day today. I fished through my new jib halyard with no problems. Then I tried out my new gin pole, made to original specs (1 inch OD aluminum, etc...). Even with an 8 ft. crutch, the mast wouldn't begin to raise without help lifting it, I couldn't believe the amount of pressure on the system. Then when I got it upright, a shroud popped loose at the T bolt, then when lowering it, the jib sheave broke and literally slid down the halyard. I still had to lower it, which chaffed the new halyard since there was now no sheave for it to run over, and finally, when all was said and done, the gin pole bent too. Now to make a sturdier gin pole (thicker walled aluminum with a dowel insert), and replace the sheave box and sheave - U.S. Spars has one on the way. So now my question - are these plastic sheaves strong enough to take the tension when raising and lowering the mast?
Bad Day Mast Raising
- Thread starter entmejia
- Start date
Usually this kind of hardware comes with a maximum working load rating.
Plastic? Who supplied it?
Got a photo of this sheave?
Plastic? Who supplied it?
Got a photo of this sheave?
It's the sheave and sheave box that came with the mast, supplied by U.S. Spars, mast Z170, part 3032. U.S. Spars was very responsive in getting out a new sheave and sheave box and shipped the same day I called. Also, the sheave was probably 13 years old and I should have just replaced it before dropping the new halyard. Still, mast raising seems to put a lot of pressure on a plastic sheave held in place by two rivets. I'll try to post a picture later today; it's still dangling from the halyard.
I did some investigation when the sheave went on our 260 - it's sheave and exit block are plastic as well. Assuming it's the same exit block on the 240 they do make a metal sheave and exit block. I was going to see if the have it here on the sites store but it is available from rig rite. It's part way down the page here. - part number and description are below.
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Zspar/Z-Exit_Blocks.htm
Aluminum Exit Block w/ 28mm Aluminum Sheave: Z-1768XA:
http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Zspar/Z-Exit_Blocks.htm
Aluminum Exit Block w/ 28mm Aluminum Sheave: Z-1768XA:
Just had a quick look at us spars site part 2032 is made up of the 1768 exit block, a 1614 sheave and 1259 axle - all of which are included in the part I referenced in my previous post. - it's an upgrade we will be doing on our 260.
This'd be the way to go. I assume the old nylon/acetyl one died of UV degradation?
Thank goodness no real damage, except the chafing, eh?
I have already ordered the Delrin replacement, or the aluminum one would be a good upgrade. I assume it was UV degradation since the sheave block is what broke, the sheave and axle seem intact. The Sta Rite halyard survived pretty well considering it lowered the mast while scraping down an aluminum cut out with no sheave.
As for my next Gin Pole, I'll use 1 inch OD aluminum, .250 wall, leaving a .50 inside diameter, which I will stuff with a 1/2 inch hardwood dowel. That should be both light, and rigid. My previous one was .125 wall, schedule 40, as called for by Hunter specs. Doesn't seem to be rigid enough.
More to follow....
As for my next Gin Pole, I'll use 1 inch OD aluminum, .250 wall, leaving a .50 inside diameter, which I will stuff with a 1/2 inch hardwood dowel. That should be both light, and rigid. My previous one was .125 wall, schedule 40, as called for by Hunter specs. Doesn't seem to be rigid enough.
More to follow....
Mast raising should not stress the fitting any more than use of the halyard to raise the sail, IMHO. I suspect something else may have been wrong, such as tangled stays holding the mast down. I have to put a lot of tension on my halyard to keep the furler from wrapping, and I doubt if the tension from raising the mast is as high. I use a block-and-tackle and gin pole to raise mine, similar to use of the main sheet, and the jib sheet winch. I can almost raise it by hand pulling, but do use the winch handle - if you had that much pressure, I think there was another problem.
The difference in the gin pole may be the material. Our oem pole is stainless steel rather than aluminum. On the 260 they call for it to be made out of 1x.065 tubing.
Why was your halyard sliding up and down in the mast cutout as you lowered it? The halyard should be cleated at the mast base, run up through the sheave, down to the gin pole, and then the other side of the gin pole would have the tackle that raises the mast. The halyard would be in a fixed position with respect to the mast, though of course in your situation, that one spot would be pulled against the aluminum cutout edge. Do you somehow try to use the jib halyard itself to pull up the mast?
Hey Entmejia
Give me a shout I live in Niceville and I am in the book.
The mast should not be that hard to raise I can meet up with you and we can go through it a couple of times until you are comfortable with the procedure.
I am surmising you are at Hurby, I usually keep mine in the water at the Fort Walton Yacht Club. I have a coupon for ribs from a place in Navarre so I need to make a trip out that way anyway.
Happy to help Let me know.
Give me a shout I live in Niceville and I am in the book.
The mast should not be that hard to raise I can meet up with you and we can go through it a couple of times until you are comfortable with the procedure.
I am surmising you are at Hurby, I usually keep mine in the water at the Fort Walton Yacht Club. I have a coupon for ribs from a place in Navarre so I need to make a trip out that way anyway.
Happy to help Let me know.
Justsomeguy: The gin pole basically bent in the middle. Probably happened when the sheave let go. Not a huge bend, but definitely slightly bowed now.
Twalker H260: Must be new specs. I used the specs called for on a Hunter diagram available on this site, called for schedule 40 aluminum tubing and 76 inches long. I agree that stainless would be more rigid.
Rick: Thank you for the offer, I will probably take you up on it in a few weeks. I have a rigger from Pensacola coming out to check out all the rigging and attach a Johnson lever for me. I'm probably going to take off the CDI and go with a hanked on jib as well - seems like a simpler set up and reduce clutter during mast raising. Plus it will allow me to keep the sails inside. I realize I give up some sailing simplicity, but so far it's mast raising that that is causing the problem, and the CDI, luff and sail seem to add about 40 pounds to the mast and a lot of clutter on the deck during raising. BTW, I'm assigned to Eglin AFB and keep the boat trailered there, usually. Hurlburt is closer to home, but I was happy just to be assigned in the same state as my home. Thanks again.
Isaksp00: I guess technically the halyard wasn't sliding. It was fixed and the mast was riding on the exposed halyard as it was lowered. Good point.
Twalker H260: Must be new specs. I used the specs called for on a Hunter diagram available on this site, called for schedule 40 aluminum tubing and 76 inches long. I agree that stainless would be more rigid.
Rick: Thank you for the offer, I will probably take you up on it in a few weeks. I have a rigger from Pensacola coming out to check out all the rigging and attach a Johnson lever for me. I'm probably going to take off the CDI and go with a hanked on jib as well - seems like a simpler set up and reduce clutter during mast raising. Plus it will allow me to keep the sails inside. I realize I give up some sailing simplicity, but so far it's mast raising that that is causing the problem, and the CDI, luff and sail seem to add about 40 pounds to the mast and a lot of clutter on the deck during raising. BTW, I'm assigned to Eglin AFB and keep the boat trailered there, usually. Hurlburt is closer to home, but I was happy just to be assigned in the same state as my home. Thanks again.
Isaksp00: I guess technically the halyard wasn't sliding. It was fixed and the mast was riding on the exposed halyard as it was lowered. Good point.
Although I'm not familiar with your system, the basics should be the same. Could you describe the ways your system differs from mine?
http://tomeshew.wordpress.com/2014/07/09/stepping-the-mast-with-a-gin-pole/
http://tomeshew.wordpress.com/2014/07/09/stepping-the-mast-with-a-gin-pole/
I think TWalker is correct about the mast raising pole being stainless steel. Some crazy guy on this forum in the past recommended inserting a large wood dowel that will fit inside the raising pole for extra structural reinforcement. Can't remember the crazy guy's name at the moment. Seems like his name is similar to a male birth control method. There may be a "Dave" in there somewhere. :dance: BrianW
If You Are Sure You Want to Give up the Furler
Maybe we can work up a deal.
Who is the rigger you got with?
If you want to dry sail the boat you may want to consider joining the yacht club. We have the only facilities around that you can store the boat on the trailer with the mast up. I can talk to you about it you can also get with Captain Byrd the MLC at Eglin.
Give me a shout anytime I am usually not doing much, little as possible leastways.
Maybe we can work up a deal.
Who is the rigger you got with?
If you want to dry sail the boat you may want to consider joining the yacht club. We have the only facilities around that you can store the boat on the trailer with the mast up. I can talk to you about it you can also get with Captain Byrd the MLC at Eglin.
Give me a shout anytime I am usually not doing much, little as possible leastways.
Entmejia - which diagram did you get the specs from? I haven't been able to locate a diagram stating material or length. Also is your pole length accurate at 76"? Our pole is very close to our J measurement which for the 240 is 8'6
Rick: I'm pretty sure I want the FF2 to go. My lessons were on a Catalina 22 with a hanked on jib in a deck bag, seemed pretty simple and foolproof. Also easy to change out sails, clean sails, store, etc... I'm thinking simple forestay ending in a quick release lever (already bought) is the way to go. PM me with your number as I'd love to visit about the FW Yacht Club.
twalker: the design came from one on line here, it is labeled for a 23.5, but it was given out as the specs for the 240 as well. Shows materials, double nico'd bridle with thimbles, etc.... I'll see if I can find it.
twalker: the design came from one on line here, it is labeled for a 23.5, but it was given out as the specs for the 240 as well. Shows materials, double nico'd bridle with thimbles, etc.... I'll see if I can find it.