Bad anchor chain? My boat is a 1982 Hunter 27. After about 12 years its 1/4" anchor chain was rusted and replaced with 40 ft of 1/4" galvanized Acco chain bought from Defender. On my first time out with the brandnew chain I lost 5 ft of chain and the attached Fortress 11 anchor sometime during the night. There was little wind but a tidal current of up to 2 kts. Dragging the remaining 35 ft of chain at the end of my anchor line kept me drifting in the tidal stream and out of the marsh. Neither Acco and Defender nor anybody at my marina and yard have heard of a basically unstressed chain parting. Has anybody in the forums heard of such a case?
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Bad anchor chain? My boat is a 1982 Hunter 27. After about 12 years its 1/4" anchor chain was rusted and replaced with 40 ft of 1/4" galvanized Acco chain bought from Defender. On my first time out with the brandnew chain I lost 5 ft of chain and the attached Fortress 11 anchor sometime during the night. There was little wind but a tidal current of up to 2 kts. Dragging the remaining 35 ft of chain at the end of my anchor line kept me drifting in the tidal stream and out of the marsh. Neither Acco and Defender nor anybody at my marina and yard have heard of a basically unstressed chain parting. Has anybody in the forums heard of such a case?
A couple of questions?
When you installed the chain to the anchor did you measure the chain length? If you did then you know you had 40 feet to start with and 35 feet left later. If that is the case it was a manuf. defect which I have never seen but is possible. If they supposely shipped 40 feet it could have been only 35 feet and the shackle parted because it was not safety wired. I have seen that.
When you installed the chain to the anchor did you measure the chain length? If you did then you know you had 40 feet to start with and 35 feet left later. If that is the case it was a manuf. defect which I have never seen but is possible. If they supposely shipped 40 feet it could have been only 35 feet and the shackle parted because it was not safety wired. I have seen that.
A couple of questions?
When you installed the chain to the anchor did you measure the chain length? If you did then you know you had 40 feet to start with and 35 feet left later. If that is the case it was a manuf. defect which I have never seen but is possible. If they supposely shipped 40 feet it could have been only 35 feet and the shackle parted because it was not safety wired. I have seen that.
When you installed the chain to the anchor did you measure the chain length? If you did then you know you had 40 feet to start with and 35 feet left later. If that is the case it was a manuf. defect which I have never seen but is possible. If they supposely shipped 40 feet it could have been only 35 feet and the shackle parted because it was not safety wired. I have seen that.
Yeah, no doubt you have all of your chain.
Look at the remaining links. See how they're welded? Even if there was NO weld it would hold your boat under most conditions.
Look at the remaining links. See how they're welded? Even if there was NO weld it would hold your boat under most conditions.
Yeah, no doubt you have all of your chain.
Look at the remaining links. See how they're welded? Even if there was NO weld it would hold your boat under most conditions.
Look at the remaining links. See how they're welded? Even if there was NO weld it would hold your boat under most conditions.
did you do it?
If you replaced the chain and did the work, then you should know if the current end of the chain is the same or different than the old end. Usually there is a wider end on the chain for the shackle. It really sounds like the shackle went. Hopefully you could dive on the site, or fish for it.
If you replaced the chain and did the work, then you should know if the current end of the chain is the same or different than the old end. Usually there is a wider end on the chain for the shackle. It really sounds like the shackle went. Hopefully you could dive on the site, or fish for it.
did you do it?
If you replaced the chain and did the work, then you should know if the current end of the chain is the same or different than the old end. Usually there is a wider end on the chain for the shackle. It really sounds like the shackle went. Hopefully you could dive on the site, or fish for it.
If you replaced the chain and did the work, then you should know if the current end of the chain is the same or different than the old end. Usually there is a wider end on the chain for the shackle. It really sounds like the shackle went. Hopefully you could dive on the site, or fish for it.
20-20 hind sight !
When I install a shackle that must not fail, as on an anchor. I tighten the pin with a spike or a wrench and then center punch the threads where they meet the shackle bow. This damage prevents the pin from backing out. Then I wire the pin.
When I install a shackle that must not fail, as on an anchor. I tighten the pin with a spike or a wrench and then center punch the threads where they meet the shackle bow. This damage prevents the pin from backing out. Then I wire the pin.
20-20 hind sight !
When I install a shackle that must not fail, as on an anchor. I tighten the pin with a spike or a wrench and then center punch the threads where they meet the shackle bow. This damage prevents the pin from backing out. Then I wire the pin.
When I install a shackle that must not fail, as on an anchor. I tighten the pin with a spike or a wrench and then center punch the threads where they meet the shackle bow. This damage prevents the pin from backing out. Then I wire the pin.
I lost a 3/4 " shackle... on a mooring
Last year I lost a 3/4" new shackle on my mooring. We had a great shackle, and I tightened it well, and put a safety wire on it. Under 40 knots winds it somehow "broke" which left my second (unprotected) line to chafe... thankfully, we only ended up in the clay when the boat broke free, so I could get back out of the mess (with TowBoat US's help...) But I didn't take out the docks.
Dave
Last year I lost a 3/4" new shackle on my mooring. We had a great shackle, and I tightened it well, and put a safety wire on it. Under 40 knots winds it somehow "broke" which left my second (unprotected) line to chafe... thankfully, we only ended up in the clay when the boat broke free, so I could get back out of the mess (with TowBoat US's help...) But I didn't take out the docks.
Dave
I lost a 3/4 " shackle... on a mooring
Last year I lost a 3/4" new shackle on my mooring. We had a great shackle, and I tightened it well, and put a safety wire on it. Under 40 knots winds it somehow "broke" which left my second (unprotected) line to chafe... thankfully, we only ended up in the clay when the boat broke free, so I could get back out of the mess (with TowBoat US's help...) But I didn't take out the docks. Dave
Last year I lost a 3/4" new shackle on my mooring. We had a great shackle, and I tightened it well, and put a safety wire on it. Under 40 knots winds it somehow "broke" which left my second (unprotected) line to chafe... thankfully, we only ended up in the clay when the boat broke free, so I could get back out of the mess (with TowBoat US's help...) But I didn't take out the docks.
Dave
because...
Dave C., It's my guess that you used a cast not forged shackle and that's why it broke. Most, if not all, of the imported shackles are made of cast iron and as such can and do break. A shackle should meet the minimum federal load rated spec of RR-C-271D and of course should ALWAYS be of the forged type NOT cast. Shackles from Columbus McKinnon (CM)or Crosby are very high quality, forged and do meet the federal spec. The general rule of thumb here is DON'T buy imported shackles and make sure they are US Spec by reputable shackle manufactureres like CM or Crosby. Many suppliers & chandlery's are now stocking cheap imported cast shackles and it's tough to tell between a cast and forged shackle by an untrained eye! A 3/4 shackle NEVER should have parted in 40 knots if it was a proper forged shackle... If it snapped it was most likely cast and NOT a "great shackle" as you say. As a simple safety measure you should always know: 1) The name of the shackle manufacturer and this name should be proudly embossed into the shackle during forging. 2) If it meets the MINIMUM specs set forth in RR-C-271D. (don't always trust this though because some seedy companies will sneak a product through a spec then change the build). You want a shackle with a NAME and a company standing behind it. 3) FORGED no CAST As to the OP's question it sounds more like you lost your shackle. I've never heard of or seen Acco chain breaking especially in benign conditions. Acco is top quality chain and even if they missed a weld, which automated welding robots don't generally do, and then the automated inspection machines missed it too, there is still no way a Hunter 27 would have stretched out a link enough to make it part in the conditions you describe. Chain is not made of cast iron, it's made of steel so it does not "snap" or "break" off in benign conditions. Steel generally stretches and or distorts well before it breaks unless it was hardened and was high test chain but that would make your scenario even less likely. In general chain links will bend and distort under severe load but links don't usually just break or snap off. Chain will break under load testing or severe loads but if you were to look at the links after testing or breaking under severe load they have become somewhat longer and narrower and more pinched at the ends before failure. To do that to a chain, in a boat, with a anchor, in mud or sand is very, very difficult if not impossible especially in benign & calm conditions. You need to secure all shackles with seizing wire after tightening with a large wrench..
Dave C., It's my guess that you used a cast not forged shackle and that's why it broke. Most, if not all, of the imported shackles are made of cast iron and as such can and do break. A shackle should meet the minimum federal load rated spec of RR-C-271D and of course should ALWAYS be of the forged type NOT cast. Shackles from Columbus McKinnon (CM)or Crosby are very high quality, forged and do meet the federal spec. The general rule of thumb here is DON'T buy imported shackles and make sure they are US Spec by reputable shackle manufactureres like CM or Crosby. Many suppliers & chandlery's are now stocking cheap imported cast shackles and it's tough to tell between a cast and forged shackle by an untrained eye! A 3/4 shackle NEVER should have parted in 40 knots if it was a proper forged shackle... If it snapped it was most likely cast and NOT a "great shackle" as you say. As a simple safety measure you should always know: 1) The name of the shackle manufacturer and this name should be proudly embossed into the shackle during forging. 2) If it meets the MINIMUM specs set forth in RR-C-271D. (don't always trust this though because some seedy companies will sneak a product through a spec then change the build). You want a shackle with a NAME and a company standing behind it. 3) FORGED no CAST As to the OP's question it sounds more like you lost your shackle. I've never heard of or seen Acco chain breaking especially in benign conditions. Acco is top quality chain and even if they missed a weld, which automated welding robots don't generally do, and then the automated inspection machines missed it too, there is still no way a Hunter 27 would have stretched out a link enough to make it part in the conditions you describe. Chain is not made of cast iron, it's made of steel so it does not "snap" or "break" off in benign conditions. Steel generally stretches and or distorts well before it breaks unless it was hardened and was high test chain but that would make your scenario even less likely. In general chain links will bend and distort under severe load but links don't usually just break or snap off. Chain will break under load testing or severe loads but if you were to look at the links after testing or breaking under severe load they have become somewhat longer and narrower and more pinched at the ends before failure. To do that to a chain, in a boat, with a anchor, in mud or sand is very, very difficult if not impossible especially in benign & calm conditions. You need to secure all shackles with seizing wire after tightening with a large wrench..
because...
Dave C., It's my guess that you used a cast not forged shackle and that's why it broke. Most, if not all, of the imported shackles are made of cast iron and as such can and do break. A shackle should meet the minimum federal load rated spec of RR-C-271D and of course should ALWAYS be of the forged type NOT cast. Shackles from Columbus McKinnon (CM)or Crosby are very high quality, forged and do meet the federal spec. The general rule of thumb here is DON'T buy imported shackles and make sure they are US Spec by reputable shackle manufactureres like CM or Crosby. Many suppliers & chandlery's are now stocking cheap imported cast shackles and it's tough to tell between a cast and forged shackle by an untrained eye! A 3/4 shackle NEVER should have parted in 40 knots if it was a proper forged shackle... If it snapped it was most likely cast and NOT a "great shackle" as you say. As a simple safety measure you should always know: 1) The name of the shackle manufacturer and this name should be proudly embossed into the shackle during forging. 2) If it meets the MINIMUM specs set forth in RR-C-271D. (don't always trust this though because some seedy companies will sneak a product through a spec then change the build). You want a shackle with a NAME and a company standing behind it. 3) FORGED no CAST As to the OP's question it sounds more like you lost your shackle. I've never heard of or seen Acco chain breaking especially in benign conditions. Acco is top quality chain and even if they missed a weld, which automated welding robots don't generally do, and then the automated inspection machines missed it too, there is still no way a Hunter 27 would have stretched out a link enough to make it part in the conditions you describe. Chain is not made of cast iron, it's made of steel so it does not "snap" or "break" off in benign conditions. Steel generally stretches and or distorts well before it breaks unless it was hardened and was high test chain but that would make your scenario even less likely. In general chain links will bend and distort under severe load but links don't usually just break or snap off. Chain will break under load testing or severe loads but if you were to look at the links after testing or breaking under severe load they have become somewhat longer and narrower and more pinched at the ends before failure. To do that to a chain, in a boat, with a anchor, in mud or sand is very, very difficult if not impossible especially in benign & calm conditions. You need to secure all shackles with seizing wire after tightening with a large wrench..
Dave C., It's my guess that you used a cast not forged shackle and that's why it broke. Most, if not all, of the imported shackles are made of cast iron and as such can and do break. A shackle should meet the minimum federal load rated spec of RR-C-271D and of course should ALWAYS be of the forged type NOT cast. Shackles from Columbus McKinnon (CM)or Crosby are very high quality, forged and do meet the federal spec. The general rule of thumb here is DON'T buy imported shackles and make sure they are US Spec by reputable shackle manufactureres like CM or Crosby. Many suppliers & chandlery's are now stocking cheap imported cast shackles and it's tough to tell between a cast and forged shackle by an untrained eye! A 3/4 shackle NEVER should have parted in 40 knots if it was a proper forged shackle... If it snapped it was most likely cast and NOT a "great shackle" as you say. As a simple safety measure you should always know: 1) The name of the shackle manufacturer and this name should be proudly embossed into the shackle during forging. 2) If it meets the MINIMUM specs set forth in RR-C-271D. (don't always trust this though because some seedy companies will sneak a product through a spec then change the build). You want a shackle with a NAME and a company standing behind it. 3) FORGED no CAST As to the OP's question it sounds more like you lost your shackle. I've never heard of or seen Acco chain breaking especially in benign conditions. Acco is top quality chain and even if they missed a weld, which automated welding robots don't generally do, and then the automated inspection machines missed it too, there is still no way a Hunter 27 would have stretched out a link enough to make it part in the conditions you describe. Chain is not made of cast iron, it's made of steel so it does not "snap" or "break" off in benign conditions. Steel generally stretches and or distorts well before it breaks unless it was hardened and was high test chain but that would make your scenario even less likely. In general chain links will bend and distort under severe load but links don't usually just break or snap off. Chain will break under load testing or severe loads but if you were to look at the links after testing or breaking under severe load they have become somewhat longer and narrower and more pinched at the ends before failure. To do that to a chain, in a boat, with a anchor, in mud or sand is very, very difficult if not impossible especially in benign & calm conditions. You need to secure all shackles with seizing wire after tightening with a large wrench..
Offshore
In the oilfields in the Gulf of mexico, none of the oil companies use shackles made in China. THEY ARE OF UNKNOWN QUALITY and prone to failure. We use tons of shackles out there, mostly in crane operations. Tony B P.S.: Also note that in most systems, the shackle is the weakest point, followed by the chain and the rope is usually the strongest part of the system. I once checked this info with the USCG and they confirmed this from boats that were drifting after losing their anchor.
In the oilfields in the Gulf of mexico, none of the oil companies use shackles made in China. THEY ARE OF UNKNOWN QUALITY and prone to failure. We use tons of shackles out there, mostly in crane operations. Tony B P.S.: Also note that in most systems, the shackle is the weakest point, followed by the chain and the rope is usually the strongest part of the system. I once checked this info with the USCG and they confirmed this from boats that were drifting after losing their anchor.
Offshore
In the oilfields in the Gulf of mexico, none of the oil companies use shackles made in China. THEY ARE OF UNKNOWN QUALITY and prone to failure. We use tons of shackles out there, mostly in crane operations. Tony B P.S.: Also note that in most systems, the shackle is the weakest point, followed by the chain and the rope is usually the strongest part of the system. I once checked this info with the USCG and they confirmed this from boats that were drifting after losing their anchor.
In the oilfields in the Gulf of mexico, none of the oil companies use shackles made in China. THEY ARE OF UNKNOWN QUALITY and prone to failure. We use tons of shackles out there, mostly in crane operations. Tony B P.S.: Also note that in most systems, the shackle is the weakest point, followed by the chain and the rope is usually the strongest part of the system. I once checked this info with the USCG and they confirmed this from boats that were drifting after losing their anchor.
Bad anchor chain? - some concluding thoughts
Thanks to all who have responded, but in my mind the mystery remains. I have verified that I have 35 ft. of chain left. It is possible that Defender shipped 35 ft instead of the ordered 40 ft of chain (a possible explanation offered by Defender itself). It is possible that the shackle gave way. (I used the stainless steel shackle from my old chain and secured the pin with a cotter ring.) But I consider the odds of both events happening to be very low. The odds for a manufacturing defect likewise are very low because nobody has reported failure of a lightly loaded chain. So the odds for a recurrence are low and I'll use my remaining 35 ft of chain with renewed confidence. But just in case: I'll be sure to turn on the anchor alarm. And if anybody else loses a piece of chain and the attached anchor on a calm night please remember: I reported it first.
Thanks to all who have responded, but in my mind the mystery remains. I have verified that I have 35 ft. of chain left. It is possible that Defender shipped 35 ft instead of the ordered 40 ft of chain (a possible explanation offered by Defender itself). It is possible that the shackle gave way. (I used the stainless steel shackle from my old chain and secured the pin with a cotter ring.) But I consider the odds of both events happening to be very low. The odds for a manufacturing defect likewise are very low because nobody has reported failure of a lightly loaded chain. So the odds for a recurrence are low and I'll use my remaining 35 ft of chain with renewed confidence. But just in case: I'll be sure to turn on the anchor alarm. And if anybody else loses a piece of chain and the attached anchor on a calm night please remember: I reported it first.
Bad anchor chain? - some concluding thoughts
Thanks to all who have responded, but in my mind the mystery remains. I have verified that I have 35 ft. of chain left. It is possible that Defender shipped 35 ft instead of the ordered 40 ft of chain (a possible explanation offered by Defender itself). It is possible that the shackle gave way. (I used the stainless steel shackle from my old chain and secured the pin with a cotter ring.) But I consider the odds of both events happening to be very low. The odds for a manufacturing defect likewise are very low because nobody has reported failure of a lightly loaded chain. So the odds for a recurrence are low and I'll use my remaining 35 ft of chain with renewed confidence. But just in case: I'll be sure to turn on the anchor alarm. And if anybody else loses a piece of chain and the attached anchor on a calm night please remember: I reported it first.
Thanks to all who have responded, but in my mind the mystery remains. I have verified that I have 35 ft. of chain left. It is possible that Defender shipped 35 ft instead of the ordered 40 ft of chain (a possible explanation offered by Defender itself). It is possible that the shackle gave way. (I used the stainless steel shackle from my old chain and secured the pin with a cotter ring.) But I consider the odds of both events happening to be very low. The odds for a manufacturing defect likewise are very low because nobody has reported failure of a lightly loaded chain. So the odds for a recurrence are low and I'll use my remaining 35 ft of chain with renewed confidence. But just in case: I'll be sure to turn on the anchor alarm. And if anybody else loses a piece of chain and the attached anchor on a calm night please remember: I reported it first.
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