Backstay Adjuster for First 41S5

Sep 3, 2023
2
Oyster Lightwave 395 RJYC, Kingston, Jamaica
Hello! Looking for good pictures / details / specs for the correct original setup of the backstay adjuster for ~1990 First 41S5.

The previous owner had rigged up a short Dyneema strap through a block shackled to the bottom end of the backstay.... one end of the Dyneema secured to the transom fitting, the other to the top block of a 8:1 rope purchase. It looks like this was all originally concealed within a tubular sheath (missing). The shackle and single block used to secure to the backstay are way, way too small for this rig, so have to assume it was a temp measure.

I suspect the original rig would have had SS cable, a serious sheave / block for the 2:1 purchase, and perhaps a stopper knot or secondary strap to avoid backstay accidentally being released completely.

Grateful for assistance please!
 

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Last edited:
Jul 13, 2009
84
Parker Skipjack 37 Clearwater
I have a 1990 41S5. It has the original adjusteder fitting , Which is a GOIOT , It has a black color 6-8 inch diameter adjusting wheel. I cant send pic now.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,145
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Hello...
Backstay adjusters are not usually original equipment on most large boats. That is not to say they are not helpful in improving trim... There are just many methods of installing an adjuster and they tend to be a dealer or owner add on.

The above mentioned Wichard is a good design. It does require a lot of turning of the wheel, yet is effective. There are "hydraulic" units that provide power to help with the work. The rig you describe sounds like an owner design to affect mast/sail control on a budget. The 8:1 rig (if the block is up to the task) sounds adequate to apply the required tension without over tensioning the back stay and creating problems at the mast base or with the bow forestay rigging. The use of dyneema in lieu of rod or stainless steel wire is a good structure. Light in weight stronger than the same diameter of rod or wire.

Your structural weak points would be the blocks, the shackles or the bend of the dyneema around a shackle pin (dyneema does not like tight bends.)
 
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