We recently purchased a 89 hunter. When we are docking it backs to port making this a difficult procedure. Is there anything we can do to correct this situation? The prior owner said this was always a problem.
- Status
Practise
This is a function of the way the propeller turns, and is common to all boats (outboards or inboards). Chapman's describes the phenomena, so it's not just a problem with your boat. To become familiar with how the boat reacts in reverse, pick a spot near a buoy or crab trap, and try backing in each of the cardinal points. You can use this port pulling phenomena to your favor, just like the wind, if you can predict what your boat will do. Good luck!
This is a function of the way the propeller turns, and is common to all boats (outboards or inboards). Chapman's describes the phenomena, so it's not just a problem with your boat. To become familiar with how the boat reacts in reverse, pick a spot near a buoy or crab trap, and try backing in each of the cardinal points. You can use this port pulling phenomena to your favor, just like the wind, if you can predict what your boat will do. Good luck!
Prop Walk
This phenomenon is consistent and very predictable. It is considered a problem by some but once you understand it this effect can help you more often that it will hinder you. Once the vessel starts movingthis effect is hardly detectable. When you dock on a long non finger dock put the starboard side on the dock. When leaving the dock use reverse and the prop walk to pull you off the dock. When entering a finger dock try to have your slip on the port side. Shifting to reverse will turn the boat's stern into the dock and it will back stern in with very little use of the wheel. The other hype I hear is to spend BIG bucks on a three blade prop, a folding prop, a flex prop, ..... but I suggest you save your money and get comfortable operating the vessel. It ain't broke so don't fix it. Somebody else used it that way for 15 years and thousands of others have done this much longer
This phenomenon is consistent and very predictable. It is considered a problem by some but once you understand it this effect can help you more often that it will hinder you. Once the vessel starts movingthis effect is hardly detectable. When you dock on a long non finger dock put the starboard side on the dock. When leaving the dock use reverse and the prop walk to pull you off the dock. When entering a finger dock try to have your slip on the port side. Shifting to reverse will turn the boat's stern into the dock and it will back stern in with very little use of the wheel. The other hype I hear is to spend BIG bucks on a three blade prop, a folding prop, a flex prop, ..... but I suggest you save your money and get comfortable operating the vessel. It ain't broke so don't fix it. Somebody else used it that way for 15 years and thousands of others have done this much longer
Overcome Prop Walk
I have port prop walk, also, on my '88 Legend 37. My slip is a stbd-side-to slip. When backing out, I overcome the prop walk by giving the engine a burst of power in reverse. This neutralizes the PW. As I gain headway, I will then de-power, put her in neutral and let the rudder take over (you must have water moving over the rudder). I can then cut my wheel and back to stbd so that I can head out of the slipway. This allows me to back my boat in any direction. You will soon learn to use PW to your advantage.
I have port prop walk, also, on my '88 Legend 37. My slip is a stbd-side-to slip. When backing out, I overcome the prop walk by giving the engine a burst of power in reverse. This neutralizes the PW. As I gain headway, I will then de-power, put her in neutral and let the rudder take over (you must have water moving over the rudder). I can then cut my wheel and back to stbd so that I can head out of the slipway. This allows me to back my boat in any direction. You will soon learn to use PW to your advantage.
PropWalk
When I first tried backing my H285, I had the same problem: it would back to port and I wanted it to back to starboard. In my case, what worked was this: Get the boat moving in a straight line in reverse. Once the boat is moving, you have steerage. Shift to neutral (and you have no prop walk). At that point, turn the wheel in the direction you want the stern to go. As the others have said, practice is the key.
When I first tried backing my H285, I had the same problem: it would back to port and I wanted it to back to starboard. In my case, what worked was this: Get the boat moving in a straight line in reverse. Once the boat is moving, you have steerage. Shift to neutral (and you have no prop walk). At that point, turn the wheel in the direction you want the stern to go. As the others have said, practice is the key.
my prop walk technique
I have switched to a 3 bladed prop, but it was to help me fight tides in my area. The prop walk actually got worse with the 3 bladed prop. What I do if the boat is in motion and I want to back up is this: 1) turn the boat almost 90 degrees to port 2) put the boat in reverse and throttle up hard 3) let the prop walk rotate the boat back to the original position, by then I have motion and thus steerage and I can throttle back and steer normally. As mentioned above, once you are familiar with how your boat is affected by prop walk, you can do some pretty cool things with it.
I have switched to a 3 bladed prop, but it was to help me fight tides in my area. The prop walk actually got worse with the 3 bladed prop. What I do if the boat is in motion and I want to back up is this: 1) turn the boat almost 90 degrees to port 2) put the boat in reverse and throttle up hard 3) let the prop walk rotate the boat back to the original position, by then I have motion and thus steerage and I can throttle back and steer normally. As mentioned above, once you are familiar with how your boat is affected by prop walk, you can do some pretty cool things with it.
Learn to love it
I agree with the others. Treat this as a useful feature of your boat. Once you learn to anticipate and control it, it can be as useful as a bow thruster. If you are not already familiar with this method, learn to turn your boat on a dime. Try this on a calm day in open water, but near a buoy that you can use as a reference. If you have reverse prop walk to port, then turn your rudder full starboard (i.e. opposite). With the boat at rest: a) shift to reverse and give the throttle a burst, but ease off just before the boat starts moving backward. Your prop walk will cause the boat to rotate clockwise before it gains any headway. Without any headway, the position of the rudder is irrelevant and the only force involved is prop walk. b) after dropping the throttle, shift to neutral, give the prop a few seconds to stop, and shift to reverse. Give the throttle a burst and drop off just before the boat begins moving forward. Wash from the prop hitting the full starboard rudder continues the clockwise rotation. Repeat steps a and b until you have rotated a full 360 degrees with the center of the boat continuously remaining over the same spot on the bottom. This is a very useful skill when operating in a confined space, like between two piers at a marina. Many people think it takes two engines to accomplish this maneuver. As someone else said, don't try to fix what isn't broken. Learn to use what you have.
I agree with the others. Treat this as a useful feature of your boat. Once you learn to anticipate and control it, it can be as useful as a bow thruster. If you are not already familiar with this method, learn to turn your boat on a dime. Try this on a calm day in open water, but near a buoy that you can use as a reference. If you have reverse prop walk to port, then turn your rudder full starboard (i.e. opposite). With the boat at rest: a) shift to reverse and give the throttle a burst, but ease off just before the boat starts moving backward. Your prop walk will cause the boat to rotate clockwise before it gains any headway. Without any headway, the position of the rudder is irrelevant and the only force involved is prop walk. b) after dropping the throttle, shift to neutral, give the prop a few seconds to stop, and shift to reverse. Give the throttle a burst and drop off just before the boat begins moving forward. Wash from the prop hitting the full starboard rudder continues the clockwise rotation. Repeat steps a and b until you have rotated a full 360 degrees with the center of the boat continuously remaining over the same spot on the bottom. This is a very useful skill when operating in a confined space, like between two piers at a marina. Many people think it takes two engines to accomplish this maneuver. As someone else said, don't try to fix what isn't broken. Learn to use what you have.
- Status