Recently bought a 28' outisland 1973. I need some hints on proper backing. It goes to port only, regardless of rudder position. This boat was repowered with a 15hp Yamar years ago.
backing
- Thread starter rdebow
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M28 backing
Heh! We also have a '73 M28OI, and it exhibts the same problem! The PO used to try to back into the slip, and everyone would get allot of laughs over it! Nowadays, we just put into the slip bow first. At least when we're backing out, we can fend off the pilings as we back clear. Then, we just work with whatever the prevailing wind gives us until we're clear to come about (forward, of course!). I have noticed that we seem to get somewhat better results with minimal rudder movement, as opposed to massive rudder input. My guess is that too much rudder just stalls the flow over the rudder and it becomes totally useless. I've heard that some of the specialty props (variable pitch and/or folding types) are supposed to work better, but I cannot say for sure. BTW, do you have a 2-blade or a 3-blade prop? The Merry Bee has the Universal 20 hp diesel: the 20 gal fuel tank (original) gets filled up in March, but try as we might, we just can't use up that much fuel in one season... we love it! At any rate, after a full year of ownership, controlling this aspect of our M28 remains a mystery to us too! Let's see if anyone else has some good ideas... Jim
Heh! We also have a '73 M28OI, and it exhibts the same problem! The PO used to try to back into the slip, and everyone would get allot of laughs over it! Nowadays, we just put into the slip bow first. At least when we're backing out, we can fend off the pilings as we back clear. Then, we just work with whatever the prevailing wind gives us until we're clear to come about (forward, of course!). I have noticed that we seem to get somewhat better results with minimal rudder movement, as opposed to massive rudder input. My guess is that too much rudder just stalls the flow over the rudder and it becomes totally useless. I've heard that some of the specialty props (variable pitch and/or folding types) are supposed to work better, but I cannot say for sure. BTW, do you have a 2-blade or a 3-blade prop? The Merry Bee has the Universal 20 hp diesel: the 20 gal fuel tank (original) gets filled up in March, but try as we might, we just can't use up that much fuel in one season... we love it! At any rate, after a full year of ownership, controlling this aspect of our M28 remains a mystery to us too! Let's see if anyone else has some good ideas... Jim
Backing with AUTOPROP
Jim, We have a 1995 38CC Morgan that has an Autoprop, a (3) bladed reversing prop. It makes traveling in reverse a breeze. I didn't believe it in the beginning and the broker demonstrated how to backup in an almost straight line. I'm a believer now and can back into my slip with very little port walk.
Jim, We have a 1995 38CC Morgan that has an Autoprop, a (3) bladed reversing prop. It makes traveling in reverse a breeze. I didn't believe it in the beginning and the broker demonstrated how to backup in an almost straight line. I'm a believer now and can back into my slip with very little port walk.
Git er movin first
Ahoy Mates; The trick to getting some control when backing down is to get yhe boat moving back and then shift into neutral. You have to get water moving over the rudder and without the prop turning there will be no prop walk. Fair Winds Cap'n dave
Ahoy Mates; The trick to getting some control when backing down is to get yhe boat moving back and then shift into neutral. You have to get water moving over the rudder and without the prop turning there will be no prop walk. Fair Winds Cap'n dave
Use ropes to pull yourself out
USE 2 SPRING LINES FROM EACH OF PILINGS AT END OF SLIP to each side of bow when coming in. These will stop boat short of pier when entering slip and allow maximum rise and fall with tide changes. To back out, grab down wind spring line at stern of boat and walk it to the bow until stern is pulled/pointed direction you want. Push off piling and walk back to cockpit and put boat in forward. This works 100% regardless of wind or prop walk. I learned this when I owned an engineless sailboat and have used it for last 3 boats-largest being 33 feet. I have solo sailed 5,000 plus miles and used engine very little-burn 3-5 gallons year. Keep it simple. Ropes and pilings give you much better control in tight quarters. I have yet to own a sailboat that backs well, even to the side of prop rotation. This eliminates hard shifting and revving-strain on shift cables/transmission and engine dying when not well warmed up or tuned.Good luck!
USE 2 SPRING LINES FROM EACH OF PILINGS AT END OF SLIP to each side of bow when coming in. These will stop boat short of pier when entering slip and allow maximum rise and fall with tide changes. To back out, grab down wind spring line at stern of boat and walk it to the bow until stern is pulled/pointed direction you want. Push off piling and walk back to cockpit and put boat in forward. This works 100% regardless of wind or prop walk. I learned this when I owned an engineless sailboat and have used it for last 3 boats-largest being 33 feet. I have solo sailed 5,000 plus miles and used engine very little-burn 3-5 gallons year. Keep it simple. Ropes and pilings give you much better control in tight quarters. I have yet to own a sailboat that backs well, even to the side of prop rotation. This eliminates hard shifting and revving-strain on shift cables/transmission and engine dying when not well warmed up or tuned.Good luck!
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