My boat is a hunte 26 water ballast ouboard aux. I've always had trouble gaining control when backing up. It has never been much of an issue but my new slip )as opposed to my previous marginal dock) makes it a big deal. I'm considering removing some of the stern railing to give me more rotational ability on the moter but I'd be interested in others experience.
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I stand
facing the stern and have a tiller extension on the outboard with which I can control both speed and direction. I handle the boat tiller and outboard tiller in tandem. (my next project is a tiller to motor connection that is outlined very thoroughly on this site). I also use my left foot to help turn the motor but rarely need to do that. Slow and easy is the only way.
facing the stern and have a tiller extension on the outboard with which I can control both speed and direction. I handle the boat tiller and outboard tiller in tandem. (my next project is a tiller to motor connection that is outlined very thoroughly on this site). I also use my left foot to help turn the motor but rarely need to do that. Slow and easy is the only way.
How about reverse strategy?
Similar problem with mine, as the alley between marina rows is about the same width as the 260 is long. Thus, coming in and out requires nearly turning the boat on its own axis. A bow thruster would be nice, but impractical on this baby. At low speed, you simply don't have enough steerage. My solution has been increased speed by backing INTO the slip and coming out in forward. When coming out, you just need to accelerate as best you can to gain steerage. When coming in, you simply have to come in fast and precise, then arrest your momentum with a burst of forward. Not for the faint of heart, but it seems to be working. This, combined with an EZ-Steer to turn the motor with the rudder and give the stern a little push on the way out solves the problem except for when we've got a bunch of wind pushing the freeboard in the direction I don't want to go. Then, it is simply having someone on the leeward side of the boat fending off everyone else's props.
Similar problem with mine, as the alley between marina rows is about the same width as the 260 is long. Thus, coming in and out requires nearly turning the boat on its own axis. A bow thruster would be nice, but impractical on this baby. At low speed, you simply don't have enough steerage. My solution has been increased speed by backing INTO the slip and coming out in forward. When coming out, you just need to accelerate as best you can to gain steerage. When coming in, you simply have to come in fast and precise, then arrest your momentum with a burst of forward. Not for the faint of heart, but it seems to be working. This, combined with an EZ-Steer to turn the motor with the rudder and give the stern a little push on the way out solves the problem except for when we've got a bunch of wind pushing the freeboard in the direction I don't want to go. Then, it is simply having someone on the leeward side of the boat fending off everyone else's props.
Backing H26
My H260 has a very small turning radius with the motor-rudder connector. As has been noted, there is a lot of discussion regarding this mod in the archives. Rather than removing part of the stern rail, I'd first spend a few dollars for the connector to see if that makes a difference. E-Z steer is the most common engine-rudder link. Mine is from Golden Eye Products available on Amazon.com abt $30.00.
My H260 has a very small turning radius with the motor-rudder connector. As has been noted, there is a lot of discussion regarding this mod in the archives. Rather than removing part of the stern rail, I'd first spend a few dollars for the connector to see if that makes a difference. E-Z steer is the most common engine-rudder link. Mine is from Golden Eye Products available on Amazon.com abt $30.00.
Steering -- EX Steer or the like
I second that -- it makes a huge difference. The one I have doesn't work as well as some other, I don't think -- but it still much easier than the old way. Also, I installed a remote control on the motor -- so much better. See these two links: http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73229040289&sku=110270598731620083&fno=17 http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73229040289&sku=110270598731620084&fno=17
I second that -- it makes a huge difference. The one I have doesn't work as well as some other, I don't think -- but it still much easier than the old way. Also, I installed a remote control on the motor -- so much better. See these two links: http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73229040289&sku=110270598731620083&fno=17 http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/pix.tpl?folder=73229040289&sku=110270598731620084&fno=17
directional thrust
The rudder-motor steering link is a big help because the directional thrust of the turned outboard allows you to maneuver even when there's not enough speed for the rudder to work. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
The rudder-motor steering link is a big help because the directional thrust of the turned outboard allows you to maneuver even when there's not enough speed for the rudder to work. Ron Mehringer h26 Hydro-Therapy
Try a Spring Line
Try using a long spring line run from a cleat aft to a cleat on the end of the peir or float, and back to the boat. As you back out of the slip and start your turn, hold the spring line fast, and use it to pivot (or spring) the boat through the turn, effectively stopping one side of the boat. After your are around and in the fairway, and shift the motor to forward to stop the turn, release the end of the line that is not cleated amidships, and pull it aboard. This is explaned in Chapter 2 of "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship" (page 51), and Chapter 7 of "Chapman" (page 161). Sorry, my editions are old, so page numbers may not be current. Hope this helps. Rob, S/V Kinship
Try using a long spring line run from a cleat aft to a cleat on the end of the peir or float, and back to the boat. As you back out of the slip and start your turn, hold the spring line fast, and use it to pivot (or spring) the boat through the turn, effectively stopping one side of the boat. After your are around and in the fairway, and shift the motor to forward to stop the turn, release the end of the line that is not cleated amidships, and pull it aboard. This is explaned in Chapter 2 of "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship" (page 51), and Chapter 7 of "Chapman" (page 161). Sorry, my editions are old, so page numbers may not be current. Hope this helps. Rob, S/V Kinship
Spring Line
I've attached a sketch of how I use a spring line as described by Rob. I came upon the use of a spring line after having too many close calls with the other boat that I share a slip with. The prevaiing wind is from the starboard side in my slip
I've attached a sketch of how I use a spring line as described by Rob. I came upon the use of a spring line after having too many close calls with the other boat that I share a slip with. The prevaiing wind is from the starboard side in my slip
Here is a great site with animations
go to www.cruising.sailingcourse.com and select the docking option. They have several really good animations on docking in various situations. Also, some of the techniques will also show you actual video on the methods - just look for the "view video" options. Now....if it were only as easy as the animations make it seem.
go to www.cruising.sailingcourse.com and select the docking option. They have several really good animations on docking in various situations. Also, some of the techniques will also show you actual video on the methods - just look for the "view video" options. Now....if it were only as easy as the animations make it seem.
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