Can anyone give me some tips on backing a 340 out of a slip. I know it all time and trial but, are there any certain ways to accomplish this and still maintain control?
- Status
Try Chapman Piloting
Chapman has a very good discussion of the vagaries of single screw boat handling.
Chapman has a very good discussion of the vagaries of single screw boat handling.
backing up
I don't know how your slip is set up but the two important things that come to mind are to use the port pull of the prop in reverse to your asvantage and to know the pivit point of your boat. taking advantage of these will help you back better and have more confidence in your boat and yourself. There is alway need for practice and remember it does get easier the more often you do it. Another docking issue is wind and how it may work for or against you when docking alway try to go into the wind.Good Luck! As Terry mentioned Chapman has great info and worth every penny!
I don't know how your slip is set up but the two important things that come to mind are to use the port pull of the prop in reverse to your asvantage and to know the pivit point of your boat. taking advantage of these will help you back better and have more confidence in your boat and yourself. There is alway need for practice and remember it does get easier the more often you do it. Another docking issue is wind and how it may work for or against you when docking alway try to go into the wind.Good Luck! As Terry mentioned Chapman has great info and worth every penny!
There ain't no rules
As previously mentioned, reading and doing are the best learning. (I spent last fall finding new ways to do it wrong and this year it will be a differnt slip with all new problems.)Also, as mentioned, pay close attention to the wind. One old salt, or whatever we have on Lake Erie, suggested taking a bow line to another slip and pulling the bow around if necessary. I suppose the maxim is "Make it happen." Andy
As previously mentioned, reading and doing are the best learning. (I spent last fall finding new ways to do it wrong and this year it will be a differnt slip with all new problems.)Also, as mentioned, pay close attention to the wind. One old salt, or whatever we have on Lake Erie, suggested taking a bow line to another slip and pulling the bow around if necessary. I suppose the maxim is "Make it happen." Andy
tip
Take a piece of tape or a cable tie and wrap it around the spoke of your wheel that is on top when the rudder is aligned with the keel. This will at least let you start off straight when you begin backing. After that, it's just lots of practice. Be thankful you dont have a full keel!
Take a piece of tape or a cable tie and wrap it around the spoke of your wheel that is on top when the rudder is aligned with the keel. This will at least let you start off straight when you begin backing. After that, it's just lots of practice. Be thankful you dont have a full keel!
Crank the wheel to port
First, I crank the wheel all the way to port to compensate for the reverse prop walk -- then give it plenty of throttle to get the boat moving. Once I achive "way" and the rudder starts to bite, I straighten the rudder up and contiue backing out reducing the throttle, compensting for wind and the sides of the slip as necessary. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility H340
First, I crank the wheel all the way to port to compensate for the reverse prop walk -- then give it plenty of throttle to get the boat moving. Once I achive "way" and the rudder starts to bite, I straighten the rudder up and contiue backing out reducing the throttle, compensting for wind and the sides of the slip as necessary. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility H340
Backin up
We use just enough power to get the boat moving then shift to neutral to minimize prop walk. Former Slip owner wrapped the stern pilings with a layer of old anchor line which acts like a fender.
We use just enough power to get the boat moving then shift to neutral to minimize prop walk. Former Slip owner wrapped the stern pilings with a layer of old anchor line which acts like a fender.
Backing Out of Slip
Experience is the greatest teacher, but it pays to know some rules so that your experience is good which builds confidence and not apprehension. I was very nervous when I first started going in and out of slips. Having had good experiences (and a couple of bad ones), I actually now enjoy the close order drills as I get satisfaction from doing it well. As has been suggested, pay close attention to the wind direction. Think through the way the wind will affect your boat before you slip the dock lines. Remember your bow is more sensitive to the wind direction than your stern and will begin to move first away from the wind. Sometimes that helps you and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't, have a crew member or someone on the dock hold a line to your bow and walk you out of the slip. Use the minimum speed necessary to maintain control of the boat. Speed is generally a problem in close quarters. If idle speed is still too fast, shift in and out of neutral to further slow the boat. When you are out of the slip and ready to shift into forward, don't turn the wheel until the boat is actually moving forward which will be several seconds after you shift gears. If you turn the wheel before your boat has begun to move forward, it will turn the boat in an undesirable direction. You might get an experienced skipper to help you with this a few times. Also John Rousmaniere's book, The Annapolis Book of Sailing is very good. Good Luck! Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Experience is the greatest teacher, but it pays to know some rules so that your experience is good which builds confidence and not apprehension. I was very nervous when I first started going in and out of slips. Having had good experiences (and a couple of bad ones), I actually now enjoy the close order drills as I get satisfaction from doing it well. As has been suggested, pay close attention to the wind direction. Think through the way the wind will affect your boat before you slip the dock lines. Remember your bow is more sensitive to the wind direction than your stern and will begin to move first away from the wind. Sometimes that helps you and sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't, have a crew member or someone on the dock hold a line to your bow and walk you out of the slip. Use the minimum speed necessary to maintain control of the boat. Speed is generally a problem in close quarters. If idle speed is still too fast, shift in and out of neutral to further slow the boat. When you are out of the slip and ready to shift into forward, don't turn the wheel until the boat is actually moving forward which will be several seconds after you shift gears. If you turn the wheel before your boat has begun to move forward, it will turn the boat in an undesirable direction. You might get an experienced skipper to help you with this a few times. Also John Rousmaniere's book, The Annapolis Book of Sailing is very good. Good Luck! Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
Use bursts of throttle...
until you're moving to minimize prop walk. You might also want to take a long hard look at where your slip is. At my old slip I found it much easier to just back all of the way down the fairway rather jockeying back and forth to get the bow around. Depends on how much room you have and whether the exit is port/starboard of your slip. The 340 actually backs quite nicely, it just takes a while to get used to it. Have fun!
until you're moving to minimize prop walk. You might also want to take a long hard look at where your slip is. At my old slip I found it much easier to just back all of the way down the fairway rather jockeying back and forth to get the bow around. Depends on how much room you have and whether the exit is port/starboard of your slip. The 340 actually backs quite nicely, it just takes a while to get used to it. Have fun!
backing up
My first sail boat was a 336, which is the same as your newer model. I got the bug and so now have a 376. The responses to your question are all good. Just a couple of things I did...I used a thread used for whipping the ends of line, a rather course thread, and used it to wrap about a one inch section on the wheel at rudder midships. This way I can feel the thread on the wheel and don't have to look to see on the wheel or auto pilot where the rudder is. Also, when I first took delivery of the 336, or other boats I've had including the 376, I found a quiet place in the bay and using a reference like a small bouy practiced manuvering to see how the boat responds and which way the prop walks, etc. Just a couple times in and out of your slip and you will have it down solid. The hunter boats are one of the best for backing down and other manuvers under power.
My first sail boat was a 336, which is the same as your newer model. I got the bug and so now have a 376. The responses to your question are all good. Just a couple of things I did...I used a thread used for whipping the ends of line, a rather course thread, and used it to wrap about a one inch section on the wheel at rudder midships. This way I can feel the thread on the wheel and don't have to look to see on the wheel or auto pilot where the rudder is. Also, when I first took delivery of the 336, or other boats I've had including the 376, I found a quiet place in the bay and using a reference like a small bouy practiced manuvering to see how the boat responds and which way the prop walks, etc. Just a couple times in and out of your slip and you will have it down solid. The hunter boats are one of the best for backing down and other manuvers under power.
extra lines
We have a new 460 and a new slip so will be having some of the same fears. In the past, we used old dock lines to run between pilings on each side. These work well to pull the boat in or out of the slip. I just walk the line along the boat to keep it from drifting too far to one side or the other.
We have a new 460 and a new slip so will be having some of the same fears. In the past, we used old dock lines to run between pilings on each side. These work well to pull the boat in or out of the slip. I just walk the line along the boat to keep it from drifting too far to one side or the other.
Still Learning
I am just learning myself and, in fact, moved a week ago from a floating dock type slip to one with fixed docks on both sides and a mandatory turn when backing to avoid a VERY expensive power boat across the way. Fortunately, it is a turn to port so prop walk works for me. One thing I have learned is that I don't have to look over my shoulder like when I am backing out of the driveway with my car. After realizing how thick (stupid) and stuck in my ways I was, I turned around to face aft and stood off to the side of the wheel. Now everything is just like going forward except you have to go a lot slower. Ron s/v Contemplation H320
I am just learning myself and, in fact, moved a week ago from a floating dock type slip to one with fixed docks on both sides and a mandatory turn when backing to avoid a VERY expensive power boat across the way. Fortunately, it is a turn to port so prop walk works for me. One thing I have learned is that I don't have to look over my shoulder like when I am backing out of the driveway with my car. After realizing how thick (stupid) and stuck in my ways I was, I turned around to face aft and stood off to the side of the wheel. Now everything is just like going forward except you have to go a lot slower. Ron s/v Contemplation H320
Ron faces aft
As I was reading through these responses, I was going to post the trick of facing aft and steering looking in the direction that you are going, but Ron beat me to it!! This technique is really great, and makes the task less confusing. Looking over your shoulder somehow invites turning the wheel the wrong way or turning just too much. It works in my car, but onboard I turn around also. As mentioned by others, learn where your pivot center is located so you don't swing the bow into any other hard objects. Practice, practice, and practice. Rich
As I was reading through these responses, I was going to post the trick of facing aft and steering looking in the direction that you are going, but Ron beat me to it!! This technique is really great, and makes the task less confusing. Looking over your shoulder somehow invites turning the wheel the wrong way or turning just too much. It works in my car, but onboard I turn around also. As mentioned by others, learn where your pivot center is located so you don't swing the bow into any other hard objects. Practice, practice, and practice. Rich
Backing Out
Lauren, You don't give many details about your slip but the best tip I can give you is to accelerate quickly then ease off of the throttle. Once the boat is moving you can steer with the rudder. No movement, no steering. Slow, gradual acceleration will leave you fighting prop walk during the entire process. I generally give the throttle a quick burst until the boat starts moving and then just let it coast backwards with enough motion to maintain steering. Don't try to go too fast and be sure to plan your moves ahead. Make sure your bow is clear of the slip before pivoting. Good luck.
Lauren, You don't give many details about your slip but the best tip I can give you is to accelerate quickly then ease off of the throttle. Once the boat is moving you can steer with the rudder. No movement, no steering. Slow, gradual acceleration will leave you fighting prop walk during the entire process. I generally give the throttle a quick burst until the boat starts moving and then just let it coast backwards with enough motion to maintain steering. Don't try to go too fast and be sure to plan your moves ahead. Make sure your bow is clear of the slip before pivoting. Good luck.
Facing the prevailing wind?
If your slip faces the prevailing wind, hoist sails in the slip and walk it out moving the bow to leeward just before you step onboard. Sheet in. Get underway. No prop walk involved. I realize this is not possible in every situation as many marinas are quite large and sailing out is impossible. I just had to be different and difficult as people have come to expect it.
The other method I like best in the responses is stay at idle and shift in and out of reverse as needed to move the boat. Stand facing forward (unless you really like the aft-facing idea and are not worried about banging your bow on anything) with your RIGHT hand on the gear shift and your LEFT hand on the port side of the wheel. This allows you to see exactly how far off the leeward dock and/or piling you are. This also eliminates any "learning" confusion of having to deal with two controls; you're only working with the gear shift. On the other hand, the only way to overcome wind is with throttle so that'll be fun to play with. Anyway, going in and out of reverse just enough to move the boat allows your rudder to do all the work and keep your boat off the dock/piling.
If your slip faces the prevailing wind, hoist sails in the slip and walk it out moving the bow to leeward just before you step onboard. Sheet in. Get underway. No prop walk involved. I realize this is not possible in every situation as many marinas are quite large and sailing out is impossible. I just had to be different and difficult as people have come to expect it.
The other method I like best in the responses is stay at idle and shift in and out of reverse as needed to move the boat. Stand facing forward (unless you really like the aft-facing idea and are not worried about banging your bow on anything) with your RIGHT hand on the gear shift and your LEFT hand on the port side of the wheel. This allows you to see exactly how far off the leeward dock and/or piling you are. This also eliminates any "learning" confusion of having to deal with two controls; you're only working with the gear shift. On the other hand, the only way to overcome wind is with throttle so that'll be fun to play with. Anyway, going in and out of reverse just enough to move the boat allows your rudder to do all the work and keep your boat off the dock/piling.Backing out with wind dead astern
I most often have had problems backing up when the wind is dead astern, mostly because I have to turn 90 degrees to starboard. I learned to apply more power to get the momentum up and then then turn more than 90 degress as the wind will start pushig the bow back towards the slip, the put in in forward and give a lot of gas to overcome the wind.
I most often have had problems backing up when the wind is dead astern, mostly because I have to turn 90 degrees to starboard. I learned to apply more power to get the momentum up and then then turn more than 90 degress as the wind will start pushig the bow back towards the slip, the put in in forward and give a lot of gas to overcome the wind.
Back into the wind
We have a 34 and need to back one way or the other and quickly. I always try and back into the wind and with alittle push or pull by my wife, it is very easy. I tried to back downwind and the boat would not turn. Life is alot easier backing into the wind. craig
We have a 34 and need to back one way or the other and quickly. I always try and back into the wind and with alittle push or pull by my wife, it is very easy. I tried to back downwind and the boat would not turn. Life is alot easier backing into the wind. craig
It has never been a problem for me
I've been backing out of a confined slip with an awkward huricane pole between me and the next boat since I bought my H34 in '83. She slides straight out. I shift into reverse at idle and face forward keeping an eye on the bow. At any tendency for the bow to swing to either side I compensate immediately with small helm adjustments. I think that's the secret, keep the rpm low, watch for that movement of the bow, and don't over compensate. Of course, every boat is different... Derek
I've been backing out of a confined slip with an awkward huricane pole between me and the next boat since I bought my H34 in '83. She slides straight out. I shift into reverse at idle and face forward keeping an eye on the bow. At any tendency for the bow to swing to either side I compensate immediately with small helm adjustments. I think that's the secret, keep the rpm low, watch for that movement of the bow, and don't over compensate. Of course, every boat is different... Derek
Backing INTO your slip
Hi Its great to read all the advice on how to back out of a slip. These Hunters are great to back up , practice in a wide open space, depends on what prop you have as to how quick a response you get, Practice practice practice and then BACK INTO YOUR SLIP. Try it you will be amazed how easy it is. Oh I also face the way the boat is moving. Then its quite simple to leave your slip Tony
Hi Its great to read all the advice on how to back out of a slip. These Hunters are great to back up , practice in a wide open space, depends on what prop you have as to how quick a response you get, Practice practice practice and then BACK INTO YOUR SLIP. Try it you will be amazed how easy it is. Oh I also face the way the boat is moving. Then its quite simple to leave your slip Tony
Ron Rocks
I second Ron's suggestion. Wonderblond absolutely could not back the beast up until she switched to the facing aft method, and now she nails it every time, so to speak. Our slip is at the confluence of Smith Slough and Redwood Creek, so we're often in the situation of backing the boat out with a four-knot side current. Best solution we've found is for me to play dockboy, backing the boat out by hand while Wonderblond "mans" the helm. Not as many style points as backing Buoyant into the fairway under her own power, but fewer scuffs on the bootstripe.
I second Ron's suggestion. Wonderblond absolutely could not back the beast up until she switched to the facing aft method, and now she nails it every time, so to speak. Our slip is at the confluence of Smith Slough and Redwood Creek, so we're often in the situation of backing the boat out with a four-knot side current. Best solution we've found is for me to play dockboy, backing the boat out by hand while Wonderblond "mans" the helm. Not as many style points as backing Buoyant into the fairway under her own power, but fewer scuffs on the bootstripe.
- Status