BACK TO ALTERNATOR BELT PROBLEMS

[Valerio]

Last year i had problems with my yanmar eating my belt, after a long and nasty travel my alternator get stuck and so i find that the inside bearings when too hot they were not turning freely and so the stress to the belt was very hight eating the belt because the friction.
Now one year after i had changed the alternator i have belt dust again in the engine. If i have 4 trojan 6v 16lp for a total of 820 amp, can be that the alternator is begin stressed too much ? It is the standard 80 amp alternator that came original in the yanmar engine. Do i need to change the charging system to a balmar with serpentine pulley system ? What house bank do you have and what alternator do you use ? I have a h41 and when traveling i use two fridges all the nav system and the autopilot and i star the engine every 8 hrs to charge the house bank. The Panda plant does not like to run with heavy seas it will protect and shut up alone, so my engine is my only charging system under nav. No solar cell because i only sail 4 days in a row 2 or 3 times in a year... it does not making sense to spend on a solar system if i have allready a generator. What do you think?

 

[SycloneDriver]

Stock 80 amp alternator vs 820 a/h battery bank, yes it time to upgrade.
I would suggest a larger alternator de-rated with an external regulator and a serpentine belt.

An alternate method would be to upgrade the belt and regulator. Keep the stock alternator but use the new regulator to limit its output.

 

[SycloneDriver]

If the alternator has a cover/guard over the front of it, remove it. The cover prevents airflow. You may also want to duct in some fresh air to the back of the alternator.

 

[Mechone]

It would be cheaper to add solar system 300 or 400 watts, than upgrade to a serpentine and new alternator and not listen to gen or engine and will run your nav and fridges while sailing ,that's what I have ,however just my 2 cents worth

 

[leo310]

Take a look at your alinement and belt tension. For alinement I use a straight edge to make sure the pullies are a lined the belt tension is by feel for me. As for the 80 amp alternator, you don't need to change it all it will do is take longer to fully charge your batteries. I have a 56 amp alternator with 4 6v deep cell and 1 12 volt starter with no problems. I do have solar but then we do anchor for 3-5 days at a time and don't want to start the engine.

 

[Stu Jackson]

a total of 820 amp, can be that the alternator is begin stressed too much ? It is the standard 80 amp alternator that came original in the yanmar engine. Do i need to change the charging system to a balmar with serpentine pulley system ?

Your alternator has issues. Read this, then consider your options, look at Maine Sail's website, too.

Hitachi/Yanmar Alternators: (by Maine Sail)

Some alternators though, such as those made by Hitachi and found on Yanmar diesels, are dumber than a pound of beetle poop. Actually, to the alternator, they are pretty smart but to your batteries and the speed of charging they are flat out stupid. Why?

Hitachi alts with dumb regulators, and some others, limit voltage but also reduce voltage based on alternator temperature. This is a self protective feature installed in the internal dumb regulator to prevent the alternator from cooking itself. Remember voltage is the pressure that allows more current to flow. So, if we reduce the absorption voltage, then we also reduce the current the alternator is supplying.. Any battery at any state of charge simply will not accept the same current at 13.4V that it did at 14.4V and as a result the alternator will run cooler. What do you suppose this does to your batteries over time.......?

The problem is that when cold you will get 14.3V to 14.4V out of the Hitachi but as the alternator heats up the dumb regulator begins to reduce the CV/voltage limit based on the alternators internal temperature. It is not uncommon to find a Hitachi alternator at 13.4V when hot. This is REALLY, REALLY DUMB....

If you have a dumb regulator, and notice the voltage dropping, it is likely a temp compensated dumb regulator. Get rid of it or plan to buy new batteries more often.

If you have a temp compensated alternator or a Hitachi alternator on a Yanmar you really are in dire need of external regulation if deep cycling a larger battery bank.

This is from:

Musings Regarding External Voltage Regulation

and these, too:

Hitachi Alternator and Smart Regulator Instal Question - Cruisers & Sailing Forums


Most practical way to upgrade Yanmar alternator? - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

 

[Benny17441]

To match the absorption rate of your batteries for that size bank you are talking an alternator of 200A. Definitely well into the serpentine territory. Bear in mind that a 200A alternator would require close to 7HP to drive. which could take a chunk of power from your engine. It is not usual to upsize your battery bank and charging capacity for only 2 or 3 trips a year. Overcapacity is costly in more ways than its installation costs. What about the rest of the year, what are your power needs for the bulk of your sailing? that is where you should size your bank at and for those few occasions adapt, adjust or look for alternative temporary recharge sources or opportunities. If it were me I would divide the battery bank into two of 420Ah each, install a balmar 100A with external regulator and alternate the use of the banks each day or outing.

 

[Maine Sail]

That alternator and belt are working themselves to death. As has been suggested a serpentine kit, externally regulated alternator and a Balmar regulator utilizing “belt load manager”, will help. A single 1/2” belt, with typical Yanmar belt wrap is really only good for about 55A-70A +/- long term..

These articles can help get you on the right track..

Alternators

 

[Valerio]

Thanks to al post but you all adressed the problem to a charging one, my problem really is the alternator tearing the belts. I have read several articles but non of them say nothing about the alt putting to much stress on the belt. Really as leo 310 stated is not a belt alignament, because it was running fine for the frist year, now i am back to the same problem.

 

[dLj]

Thanks to al post but you all adressed the problem to a charging one, my problem really is the alternator tearing the belts. I have read several articles but non of them say nothing about the alt putting to much stress on the belt. Really as leo 310 stated is not a belt alignament, because it was running fine for the frist year, now i am back to the same problem.

Valerio - I think you are missing the point - you belt is getting torn up because of the charging requirements being placed on your alternator.

dj

 

[gettinthere]

There is another possibility.
Check to see if there are any rust spots on the inside of the pulleys.
If you engine sits for any length of time, rust can form on the inner face of the pulley right where the belt rides. That/those spots can quickly eat a belt.
If you have any, use emery cloth to sand off the rust spots.

I know this from direct experience.

 

[Valerio]

do you know if there is a serpentine belt kit without the balmar alt included ?

 

[Benny17441]

Electro-Max sells a kit for most Yanmar engine series. 1-866-945-8801 Google them, and inquire about a kit for yours. It seems to include the different pullies a belt tensioner and the belt. Your alternator is tearing up the belts because of the loads being placed while it is energized, and the heat generated. The serpentine belt will help but it will not prevent the likely premature demise of your stock alternator. If you do not want to upgrade to a larger more efficient alternator the consider degrading the bank by separating it into two 410Ah banks which could be combined only when needed those 2 or 3 times a year. Good planning, it provides good luck.

 

[ice breaker]

Valerio, on our H41, the original belt( that was solid) was dusting the engine compartment within 100 hours on the engine. I replaced it with a toothed one and 10 years later with 1000 hours it is still perfect. My experience with other none boat belt applications is that toothed belts do not need to be as tight as a solid belt, thus putting less strain on the berrings. I have the 56hp Yanmar with the 80amp mitsubishi alternator. It has been bulletproof. A new toothed belt is $10.

I too have a panda and it has challenged me over the years, but has finally settled down with several tweeks. The main one going from having the fuel filter on the vacuum side to moving it to the pressure side and putting a foot valve on the water pick up line.

 

[Mechone]

Valerio, on our H41, the original belt( that was solid) was dusting the engine compartment within 100 hours on the engine. I replaced it with a toothed one and 10 years later with 1000 hours it is still perfect. My experience with other none boat belt applications is that toothed belts do not need to be as tight as a solid belt, thus putting less strain on the berrings. I have the 56hp Yanmar with the 80amp mitsubishi alternator. It has been bulletproof. A new toothed belt is $10.

I too have a panda and it has challenged me over the years, but has finally settled down with several tweeks. The main one going from having the fuel filter on the vacuum side to moving it to the pressure side and putting a foot valve on the water pick up line.

Ice breaker is correct ,grip notched is the term and is designated by a X in the belt code . All boats should be using this type of belt . I just assumed you were, A regular belt when it goes around a small pulley (alternater) Bulges out because of the tight radius ,thus creating heat and wear (belt dust ) and will become loose . A grip notched belt because of the cut outs does not bulge or create heat ,therefore no wear.

 

[Whatfiero1]

I'd separate into 2 banks and charge separate also helps keep an eye on battery life

 

[Ken13559]

Should the tooth belt be same length as regular belt? Is there an equivalent table for selecting between tooth and regular belt?
Thanks.

Ken Y

 

[Mechone]

Should the tooth belt be same length as regular belt? Is there an equivalent table for selecting between tooth and regular belt?
Thanks.

Ken Y

It's the same length eg a B40 belt, a grip notch would be a BX40 there are charts on the internet a 5L belt is equal to a B a 4L is equal to a A ,a grip notch would be AX . Some auto parts stores will have their own part # Just ask for the same length belt with grip notches

 

[Ken13559]

It's the same length eg a B40 belt, a grip notch would be a BX40 there are charts on the internet a 5L belt is equal to a B a 4L is equal to a A ,a grip notch would be AX . Some auto parts stores will have their own part # Just ask for the same length belt with grip notches

Noted. Thanks.

 

[Valerio]

really if you have problem like mine watever belt you are using is the same, i had every brand in my engine.