Our new Hunter 240 has been performing beautifully for us this season. I was wondering if anyone knew of a source of DETAILED information on: 1) B and R rigging. What is the history? What are the benefits/disadvantages? 2) Water ballast sailing. The boat is MUCH more tender than our last sailboat and I'd like to better understand why. Does anyone have a source of information on these Hunter water ballast boats? Any ideas/suggestions would be appreciated. Happy sailing!
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RE: H 240 Rigging and Sailing
Hi Eric We have a 240 and love it as well. Not sure what you are refering to regarding the rigging, cant help there. As has been written about on the HOW web site before, the 240 is tender. Many of us subscribe to "reef early and often." We sail a great deal with the main reefed and then adjust the rolling furler genoa as the conditions on the lake change (midwest lakes do that!) Despite these adjustments, the boat seems to us to be very fast (we dont race, however, so that is a very subjective judgement). It also means we have to swallow any macho pride since we are usually the first on the lake to reef! Great sailing to you as well Bill Welsch "Renewal"
Hi Eric We have a 240 and love it as well. Not sure what you are refering to regarding the rigging, cant help there. As has been written about on the HOW web site before, the 240 is tender. Many of us subscribe to "reef early and often." We sail a great deal with the main reefed and then adjust the rolling furler genoa as the conditions on the lake change (midwest lakes do that!) Despite these adjustments, the boat seems to us to be very fast (we dont race, however, so that is a very subjective judgement). It also means we have to swallow any macho pride since we are usually the first on the lake to reef! Great sailing to you as well Bill Welsch "Renewal"
Heeling?
Try sailing the boat flatter than others and you will find that it will go faster. No more than 10 degrees heel or you will be a fightin the boat my man
Try sailing the boat flatter than others and you will find that it will go faster. No more than 10 degrees heel or you will be a fightin the boat my man
B & R rig
The B&R rig was invented by two designers whose names slip me at the moment, except that I think they were both Scandinavian in origin (Bergstrom and Rasmussen perhaps? Don't quote me). Interesting connection though, considering that Lindstrom is also of Scandinavian origin. The main features of the B&R rig are the swept-back spreaders and shrouds, which eliminate the need for a backstay to balance the tension in the forestay. Since there is no backstay in the way, the mainsail can be made bigger, with a larger roach and full-length battens for more power and boatspeed, especially going upwind. The drawbacks are that you have to reef early to avoid excessive heel going upwind in moderate to heavy air (no surprise there), and when going downwind you can't ease the boom out as far as would with a normal rig because the swept-back spreaders will chafe the main. Don't feel less manly because you have to reef earlier than everyone else, because some boats actually go faster in heavy air with a reef tucked in. You will have less heel and thus less drag, because the wetted surface of the hull will be less. The reduced heel may also cause a reduction in weather helm. Less opposite rudder needed to keep the boat on course also means less drag, and possibly more speed. There are other advantages too. If the wind picks up any more you will already be reefed, so you can keep going while others stop or slow down to reef. You will not be sailing "on the edge" as much, so you can relax and enjoy the sail without worrying about burying the cockpit coaming or rounding up in an unusually strong puff. Your crew will thank you profusely, they will hand you cold drinks and promise to return another day. Peter
The B&R rig was invented by two designers whose names slip me at the moment, except that I think they were both Scandinavian in origin (Bergstrom and Rasmussen perhaps? Don't quote me). Interesting connection though, considering that Lindstrom is also of Scandinavian origin. The main features of the B&R rig are the swept-back spreaders and shrouds, which eliminate the need for a backstay to balance the tension in the forestay. Since there is no backstay in the way, the mainsail can be made bigger, with a larger roach and full-length battens for more power and boatspeed, especially going upwind. The drawbacks are that you have to reef early to avoid excessive heel going upwind in moderate to heavy air (no surprise there), and when going downwind you can't ease the boom out as far as would with a normal rig because the swept-back spreaders will chafe the main. Don't feel less manly because you have to reef earlier than everyone else, because some boats actually go faster in heavy air with a reef tucked in. You will have less heel and thus less drag, because the wetted surface of the hull will be less. The reduced heel may also cause a reduction in weather helm. Less opposite rudder needed to keep the boat on course also means less drag, and possibly more speed. There are other advantages too. If the wind picks up any more you will already be reefed, so you can keep going while others stop or slow down to reef. You will not be sailing "on the edge" as much, so you can relax and enjoy the sail without worrying about burying the cockpit coaming or rounding up in an unusually strong puff. Your crew will thank you profusely, they will hand you cold drinks and promise to return another day. Peter
B & R Rig
Go to the following site for a little bit of information. I have not been able to find out much about this rig. I would like to know how to adjust, the Hunter manual leaves much to be desired. http://www.sailnet.com/Sailing/97/bobjul97.htm
Go to the following site for a little bit of information. I have not been able to find out much about this rig. I would like to know how to adjust, the Hunter manual leaves much to be desired. http://www.sailnet.com/Sailing/97/bobjul97.htm
Reefing notes
Like many others who have posted here, after owning my '95 H26 for a year, I have become very familiar with reefing. My boat has two reef points on the main. I have a wind speed indicator on the masthead. If the winds are sustained at 10-13 knots, I put in the first reef. At 14-18 I put in the second. I also start furling in the jib at about 15. If you don't reef early, the boat will heel excessively, and will round up into the wind. I use my asymmetric spinaker with great caution when the winds are above 10 knots for the same reason. Ned Christensen
Like many others who have posted here, after owning my '95 H26 for a year, I have become very familiar with reefing. My boat has two reef points on the main. I have a wind speed indicator on the masthead. If the winds are sustained at 10-13 knots, I put in the first reef. At 14-18 I put in the second. I also start furling in the jib at about 15. If you don't reef early, the boat will heel excessively, and will round up into the wind. I use my asymmetric spinaker with great caution when the winds are above 10 knots for the same reason. Ned Christensen
REEFING
YOU WILL NEED TO REEF SOONER . BUT THE TRADE-OFF IS A FLATER BOAT WHICH IS FASTER AND UNDER CONTROL. AS A TEST, WATCH WHEN THE LARGER BOATS ARE UNDER FULL SAIL AND SHOWING EXCESSIVE HEEL, IF YOU REEF OR USE ONLY THE MAIN YOU WILL PULL AWAY. JACK RESPITE
YOU WILL NEED TO REEF SOONER . BUT THE TRADE-OFF IS A FLATER BOAT WHICH IS FASTER AND UNDER CONTROL. AS A TEST, WATCH WHEN THE LARGER BOATS ARE UNDER FULL SAIL AND SHOWING EXCESSIVE HEEL, IF YOU REEF OR USE ONLY THE MAIN YOU WILL PULL AWAY. JACK RESPITE
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