I'm in the process of adding a second axle to the trailer for my hunter 23 (At this stage, collecting parts). How much travel do I need between the axle and the frame? the original axle has the springs on top of the axle, and there is easily 8" between then axle and the frame. If I could cut this down, it would make life considerably easier launching (I figure, the first 4" will have the most impact). Also..tounge weight. for single axle trailers i've heard to shoot for ~ 10%, does that change with a double axle? another idea - something akin to an over-center chain adjuster, so that before I launch, I can take the pole, lock the suspension at loaded ride height, and then when I go to retrieve I shouldn't have to back in as far!!
Axles: 1 or 2!?
- Thread starter Brian M H23
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trailing
I suspect you're overthinking it. If the designer and manufacturer supplied one axle, I'd think that would be sufficient; you might consider a tongue extension tho. I built one for my C-22 years ago and it worked very well and it was easier than adding an axle.
I suspect you're overthinking it. If the designer and manufacturer supplied one axle, I'd think that would be sufficient; you might consider a tongue extension tho. I built one for my C-22 years ago and it worked very well and it was easier than adding an axle.
Different issues
Adding a second axle isn't going to make it easier to launch..it's going to make it easier and safer to tow. You don't see any car trailers with just one axle, and they have a much lower CG and are much narrower! The 23 sits much higher on it's trailer than a C-22...take a bump on one side and watch it bounce back on forth! Not to mention the possibility of flats..I'd much rather redunancy in that area as well. While doing this change, I'm shooting to make the boat CG lower as well. It's obvious this is a very cheap trailer, and I'd like to remedy that. I mean, come on. The bunks don't even have a solid through bolt - just a set screw!!
Adding a second axle isn't going to make it easier to launch..it's going to make it easier and safer to tow. You don't see any car trailers with just one axle, and they have a much lower CG and are much narrower! The 23 sits much higher on it's trailer than a C-22...take a bump on one side and watch it bounce back on forth! Not to mention the possibility of flats..I'd much rather redunancy in that area as well. While doing this change, I'm shooting to make the boat CG lower as well. It's obvious this is a very cheap trailer, and I'd like to remedy that. I mean, come on. The bunks don't even have a solid through bolt - just a set screw!!
Trailer Axles (sorry, long)
Ford and GM recommend 10-15% tongue weight for trailers, it does not vary based upon the number of axles. If you add a second axle, then you will probably need to move the existing axle to keep the right balance. If the boat, stuff and trailer is over 3000 lbs, you will need brakes to be legal in most states, some require them at even lower weights. Many states will require them on both axles. You will need to be legal in the states that you tow in, being legal in just your home state will not stop a ticket when you are out-of-state. I would think that 4 inches of suspension travel would be adequate, if you are cutting it close, then a rubber snubber is a good idea. These can be pirated at a junkyard off of a small truck or Jeep with leaf spring suspension. For a really low slung trailer, if you are willing to spend, torsion axles are a possibility. The spring is a rubber element inside the axle. The axle just bolts to the frame and does not need any travel. Springs are underslung to axles all the time. You will need bigger U bolts - because now they are in tension and they also get significant tensile load from being torqued down. You are adding weight to your trailer. To be legal, depending on how the trailer is rated, and where you live, you may have the problem of exceeding the trailer's TAGGED GVWR. GVWR is a legal rating of how much the trailer can weigh with it's load. If your added axle puts the trailer over its current tagged GVWR on the VIN plate, then you will not be legal, regardless of your potential safety improvement. There are several choices, they depend upon the laws of your state. When I restored a trailer that I had lost the tags for in Colorado, I did it with parts from a Harbor Frieght trailer. Because the trailer was a mix of parts from multipls sources, they let me tag it as homebuilt. Colorado does not put a GVWR on homebuilt trailers, so theoretically, my little traier can carry whatever I am dumb enough to put on it. By adding weight to the trailer, you may need to work with your state's DMV to retag it if the GVWR thing is an issue. Maybe you can retag as homebuilt, with a GVWR of your choice, or one that is the sum of the new axle and tire ratings. This has nothing to do with the safety of your mods - just the way the law looks at them, right or wrong. Try these sites for trailer parts and advice: http://www.championtrailers.com/ http://www.etrailerpart.com/ Best o' Luck, OC
Ford and GM recommend 10-15% tongue weight for trailers, it does not vary based upon the number of axles. If you add a second axle, then you will probably need to move the existing axle to keep the right balance. If the boat, stuff and trailer is over 3000 lbs, you will need brakes to be legal in most states, some require them at even lower weights. Many states will require them on both axles. You will need to be legal in the states that you tow in, being legal in just your home state will not stop a ticket when you are out-of-state. I would think that 4 inches of suspension travel would be adequate, if you are cutting it close, then a rubber snubber is a good idea. These can be pirated at a junkyard off of a small truck or Jeep with leaf spring suspension. For a really low slung trailer, if you are willing to spend, torsion axles are a possibility. The spring is a rubber element inside the axle. The axle just bolts to the frame and does not need any travel. Springs are underslung to axles all the time. You will need bigger U bolts - because now they are in tension and they also get significant tensile load from being torqued down. You are adding weight to your trailer. To be legal, depending on how the trailer is rated, and where you live, you may have the problem of exceeding the trailer's TAGGED GVWR. GVWR is a legal rating of how much the trailer can weigh with it's load. If your added axle puts the trailer over its current tagged GVWR on the VIN plate, then you will not be legal, regardless of your potential safety improvement. There are several choices, they depend upon the laws of your state. When I restored a trailer that I had lost the tags for in Colorado, I did it with parts from a Harbor Frieght trailer. Because the trailer was a mix of parts from multipls sources, they let me tag it as homebuilt. Colorado does not put a GVWR on homebuilt trailers, so theoretically, my little traier can carry whatever I am dumb enough to put on it. By adding weight to the trailer, you may need to work with your state's DMV to retag it if the GVWR thing is an issue. Maybe you can retag as homebuilt, with a GVWR of your choice, or one that is the sum of the new axle and tire ratings. This has nothing to do with the safety of your mods - just the way the law looks at them, right or wrong. Try these sites for trailer parts and advice: http://www.championtrailers.com/ http://www.etrailerpart.com/ Best o' Luck, OC
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