Dave, Thank you for sharing the results of you cockpit sole work in the Photo Forum. It looks better than original. Fair winds, Tom
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Here here!!!
Dave, You are amazing! What a beautiful job. would you share with us what you used for paint and nonskid?
Dave, You are amazing! What a beautiful job. would you share with us what you used for paint and nonskid?
Thanks Don and Tom, .....
Don, this is what I wrote to Steve D., and I am adding it to your post. I did refinish some of the gelcoat. Actually, I did a great deal of it in sections. The gelcoat was applied after all reconstuction was done. I sprayed it in sections in the areas that needed renewing or refinishing. Used the little "preval" paint sprayers.. not sure of that spelling, but you can get them at West Marine, Boaters World and at most automotive stores. Mixed about 3.5 oz of gelcoat (white) with 30 drops of the hardener, mixed well, then added about 4 oz of acetone to thin. Mixed well and proceeded to spray the areas that needed gelcoating. After about 30 minutes, I sprayed the same areas with mold release wax with a new unused "preval" sprayer. Then leave for it to cure until the next day when you can wash off all the green wax, and behold.. new gelcoat. The nonskid was then applied last. I used tape to tape off the areas I wanted nonskid, cleaned well with alcohol and sanded to rough up the surface. Then used the interlux enamel primer, very thick, rolled on and while still wet, sprinkled a very high grade sand (home depot) until entire surface had a very even coat of sand. Allowed to dry for a few hours, then gently vacumed away excess sand. Then proceeded to coat with color coat which I prepared with flattening agent, same interlux brand, and also added the interlux nonskid beads, all together mixed and applied several coats with roller allowing a few hours between each coat. Tape was removed after about 3 coats, but I used 5 or 6 coats to give the amount of fill to the coarse sand surface. Very durable, cleans well with brush and makes a very good nonskid surface. Thanks for your nice comments.
Don, this is what I wrote to Steve D., and I am adding it to your post. I did refinish some of the gelcoat. Actually, I did a great deal of it in sections. The gelcoat was applied after all reconstuction was done. I sprayed it in sections in the areas that needed renewing or refinishing. Used the little "preval" paint sprayers.. not sure of that spelling, but you can get them at West Marine, Boaters World and at most automotive stores. Mixed about 3.5 oz of gelcoat (white) with 30 drops of the hardener, mixed well, then added about 4 oz of acetone to thin. Mixed well and proceeded to spray the areas that needed gelcoating. After about 30 minutes, I sprayed the same areas with mold release wax with a new unused "preval" sprayer. Then leave for it to cure until the next day when you can wash off all the green wax, and behold.. new gelcoat. The nonskid was then applied last. I used tape to tape off the areas I wanted nonskid, cleaned well with alcohol and sanded to rough up the surface. Then used the interlux enamel primer, very thick, rolled on and while still wet, sprinkled a very high grade sand (home depot) until entire surface had a very even coat of sand. Allowed to dry for a few hours, then gently vacumed away excess sand. Then proceeded to coat with color coat which I prepared with flattening agent, same interlux brand, and also added the interlux nonskid beads, all together mixed and applied several coats with roller allowing a few hours between each coat. Tape was removed after about 3 coats, but I used 5 or 6 coats to give the amount of fill to the coarse sand surface. Very durable, cleans well with brush and makes a very good nonskid surface. Thanks for your nice comments.
O, forgot to mention the drains near toe rails
I also forgot to mention the drains I made near the toe rails in the area of the winches.. this always collected water that made things kinda nasty between trips to the boat.. so I made an L shaped fiberglass tube and drilled and glassed to deck / hull. Works great and you can see the hole in the first picture of the cockpit. Something other owners should consider doing, stays dry and clean now.
I also forgot to mention the drains I made near the toe rails in the area of the winches.. this always collected water that made things kinda nasty between trips to the boat.. so I made an L shaped fiberglass tube and drilled and glassed to deck / hull. Works great and you can see the hole in the first picture of the cockpit. Something other owners should consider doing, stays dry and clean now.
You are an inspiration!
Tom, I am sure the rest of us H33 owners are standing up and applauding for the great job you have done! Wonderful photos and explanation. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Tom, I am sure the rest of us H33 owners are standing up and applauding for the great job you have done! Wonderful photos and explanation. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Beautiful job David!
When a guy of your demonstrated design and execution skills focuses on a problem, the result is a thing of beauty. That you have lavished such attention on the same old production H33 for such a long time says a lot also about the original quality of the H33 design that one of your abilitiy has deemed it worth this kind of attention. Having worked for a time in those close quarters in the bowels of the H33, I have a particular appreciation and admiration for the upside down work you described. Thanks!
When a guy of your demonstrated design and execution skills focuses on a problem, the result is a thing of beauty. That you have lavished such attention on the same old production H33 for such a long time says a lot also about the original quality of the H33 design that one of your abilitiy has deemed it worth this kind of attention. Having worked for a time in those close quarters in the bowels of the H33, I have a particular appreciation and admiration for the upside down work you described. Thanks!
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