OK, you’re getting ready to order your new boat for spring delivery. You want a dark blue hull. The boat will be used in fresh water only. Cost differential aside, do you order AWLGRIP or molded-in color? Why? Thanks, Paul s/v The Lord Nelson
AWLGRIP OR MOLDED-IN COLOR???
- Thread starter Paul J. Rusyniak
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Paint vs colored gelcoat
Paul I don't think there is a definitive single answer since it depends in large part on the manufacturer. Some builders won't or don't like to use colored gel since the color tends so show hull imperfections much more and they have received lots of complaints, particularly some mfgs who apparently don't know how to do a colored gel properly. As they are not as responsible for aftermarket paint, their liability is different. On the other hand, lots of people perfer colored gel as it hides small dings better than paint which isn't as forgiving. In terms of longevity, a properly painted and properly cared-for (painted) hull may hold it's gloss longer than gel. Not sure if this helps... Don
Paul I don't think there is a definitive single answer since it depends in large part on the manufacturer. Some builders won't or don't like to use colored gel since the color tends so show hull imperfections much more and they have received lots of complaints, particularly some mfgs who apparently don't know how to do a colored gel properly. As they are not as responsible for aftermarket paint, their liability is different. On the other hand, lots of people perfer colored gel as it hides small dings better than paint which isn't as forgiving. In terms of longevity, a properly painted and properly cared-for (painted) hull may hold it's gloss longer than gel. Not sure if this helps... Don
Gelcoat ... plus an extra thick matting layer.
Dark hulls (constant thermal cycling) promote the 'further curing' of styrene, etc. resins. If the matting layer is not sufficiently thick (thicker) the underlaying fiberglass structure will eventually 'print through'. Such print through will show gross imperfections on the surface in later years. The only way to do a 'dark' color is to properly add (and pay for) an extra thick matting layer. A dark *cored* hull .... NEVER as it will lead to premature failure. Paint is only a 'temporary' coating, Go with extra thick matting layer and dark pigmented gelcoat. You can always 'restore' gelcoat, and if you maintain it properly the restoration will be a loooooong time in the future. But I will add from personal experience that you will own only ONE dark hulled boat in your lifetime - too damn HOT.
Dark hulls (constant thermal cycling) promote the 'further curing' of styrene, etc. resins. If the matting layer is not sufficiently thick (thicker) the underlaying fiberglass structure will eventually 'print through'. Such print through will show gross imperfections on the surface in later years. The only way to do a 'dark' color is to properly add (and pay for) an extra thick matting layer. A dark *cored* hull .... NEVER as it will lead to premature failure. Paint is only a 'temporary' coating, Go with extra thick matting layer and dark pigmented gelcoat. You can always 'restore' gelcoat, and if you maintain it properly the restoration will be a loooooong time in the future. But I will add from personal experience that you will own only ONE dark hulled boat in your lifetime - too damn HOT.
awlgrip
I have the Hunter 41DS with a blue Awlgrip hull. I put three coats of the Awlgrip sealant on before the summer and it has been great for the whole season. No fading, and it did not water spot. Of course, like gelcoat, scratches can be a problem. No getting around that. I was skeptical, but so far I have been pleased/
I have the Hunter 41DS with a blue Awlgrip hull. I put three coats of the Awlgrip sealant on before the summer and it has been great for the whole season. No fading, and it did not water spot. Of course, like gelcoat, scratches can be a problem. No getting around that. I was skeptical, but so far I have been pleased/
Thicker is better
Manufacturers like awlgrip for many of the reasons mentioned below: it's cheaper (for them) to do a good-looking paint job than a good-quality gelcoat job. ( As the guys at Woodenboat will also tell you, paint can hide a multitude of sins.) Paint comes in lots of different colors, so owners can "personalize" their boat instead of getting the standard manufacturer's colors. Both surfaces can become scratched. When the paint scratches, it will show the underlying primer, gelcoat, or fiberglass , depending upon how deep the scratch is. Ask how thick three coats of awlgrip is. Add perhaps two or three coats of "clear" over it. It will still be considerably thinner (I believe by something like a factor of 10) than the thicknes of a gel coat. It takes a lot to scratch gelcoat. We had a Soling (white gelcoat with blue boottop) for 20 years. I could still see my face in the topsides the day we sold her. I doubt any paint would hold up that well.
Manufacturers like awlgrip for many of the reasons mentioned below: it's cheaper (for them) to do a good-looking paint job than a good-quality gelcoat job. ( As the guys at Woodenboat will also tell you, paint can hide a multitude of sins.) Paint comes in lots of different colors, so owners can "personalize" their boat instead of getting the standard manufacturer's colors. Both surfaces can become scratched. When the paint scratches, it will show the underlying primer, gelcoat, or fiberglass , depending upon how deep the scratch is. Ask how thick three coats of awlgrip is. Add perhaps two or three coats of "clear" over it. It will still be considerably thinner (I believe by something like a factor of 10) than the thicknes of a gel coat. It takes a lot to scratch gelcoat. We had a Soling (white gelcoat with blue boottop) for 20 years. I could still see my face in the topsides the day we sold her. I doubt any paint would hold up that well.
Look at the world of color
For those of you with little faith in paint take a look at the automobile industry. A good urethane paint, applied correctly, can last a very long time, even in extreme environments. The thing about gel coat, as a polyester, is that alone it does not have real good UV stability compared to a urethane. The best part of the hull is the very first layer to be removed the first time you need to polish it, and a dark color WILL need to be polished, to maintain a high luster. The chip and scratch thing is true enough, but is it worth the accelerated wear? I don't think so. I guess the cool thing would be the same color gel coat, primer, and topcoat. We do it in custom automotive painting all the time. Just a thought Brian
For those of you with little faith in paint take a look at the automobile industry. A good urethane paint, applied correctly, can last a very long time, even in extreme environments. The thing about gel coat, as a polyester, is that alone it does not have real good UV stability compared to a urethane. The best part of the hull is the very first layer to be removed the first time you need to polish it, and a dark color WILL need to be polished, to maintain a high luster. The chip and scratch thing is true enough, but is it worth the accelerated wear? I don't think so. I guess the cool thing would be the same color gel coat, primer, and topcoat. We do it in custom automotive painting all the time. Just a thought Brian
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