Someone asked the question a while ago.....The standard (optional!) 16" 3 blade on our 356 weighs 9lbs, and the replacement autoprop weighed in at 11 lbs. probably not enough difference to matter for shaft/bearing longevity
autoprop vs std prop weights
- Thread starter chuckwayne
- Start date
- Status
Chuck, I don't think weight is a problem for a
cutlass bearing. Balance is critical but more so, is alignment. Just as in an engine. The higher the speed, the more important. Think of the cutlass bearing as a babbitt bearing in an internal combustion engine.(car/truck/race motor) It has to be aligned, more than anything, or it's gonna fry.
cutlass bearing. Balance is critical but more so, is alignment. Just as in an engine. The higher the speed, the more important. Think of the cutlass bearing as a babbitt bearing in an internal combustion engine.(car/truck/race motor) It has to be aligned, more than anything, or it's gonna fry.
Autoprop
Chuck, I have a couple of questions regarding your autoprop. I have the same standard 3 blade on my 356 and I'm thinking of the Autoprop to replace same. What size Autoprop? Are you happy with it? Did you need to haul out to replace? Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Chuck, I have a couple of questions regarding your autoprop. I have the same standard 3 blade on my 356 and I'm thinking of the Autoprop to replace same. What size Autoprop? Are you happy with it? Did you need to haul out to replace? Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
autoprop
Fred, I didn't think it was an issue either, but someone raised the question..... Dan, I'm on the road (again!)but I'll post the exact model when I get home-it's a 16" H5, autoprop can spec the blades. Yes, I really like it! the performance improvement under sail or power is impressive, worth maybe 3/4 kt under sail. under power, i'm getting much more speed-relative to the 3 blade I'm doing the same cruise speed at a 1000 rpm slower speed. In addition, the auto pitching really works-at slow speed, in forward or reverse, I've got a lot more control. Autoprop says that you can install in the water-remove old prop, slide on new prop over key,install and tighten large cylindrical autoprop nut, centerpunch inside rightangle lockscrew hole, install lockscrew. mount zinc tailcone with 3 nylon screws and you're done. HOWEVER---my Hunter prop backed off the shaft twice, so we did a quick haul to inspect and replace with the autoprop-after losing 2 props, I wanted to be really careful with installation and torquing, and used lots of locktite! that said, it's a really robust design, you can do the annual greasing under water, and you can replace a single blade if damaged.If you move to a different boat with the same shaft size, the worst you have to do is relace the three blades, not the entire prop.
Fred, I didn't think it was an issue either, but someone raised the question..... Dan, I'm on the road (again!)but I'll post the exact model when I get home-it's a 16" H5, autoprop can spec the blades. Yes, I really like it! the performance improvement under sail or power is impressive, worth maybe 3/4 kt under sail. under power, i'm getting much more speed-relative to the 3 blade I'm doing the same cruise speed at a 1000 rpm slower speed. In addition, the auto pitching really works-at slow speed, in forward or reverse, I've got a lot more control. Autoprop says that you can install in the water-remove old prop, slide on new prop over key,install and tighten large cylindrical autoprop nut, centerpunch inside rightangle lockscrew hole, install lockscrew. mount zinc tailcone with 3 nylon screws and you're done. HOWEVER---my Hunter prop backed off the shaft twice, so we did a quick haul to inspect and replace with the autoprop-after losing 2 props, I wanted to be really careful with installation and torquing, and used lots of locktite! that said, it's a really robust design, you can do the annual greasing under water, and you can replace a single blade if damaged.If you move to a different boat with the same shaft size, the worst you have to do is relace the three blades, not the entire prop.
Lost it twice?
Chuck, Thanks for the information. Probably will wind up costing me some money. So now I'm curious...you lost the 3 blade fixed twice?? Why do you think that happened? You must have a been a little more than worried about losing the Autoprop after that. We lost the key in ours early on. Turns out they installed one that was too soft a material. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Chuck, Thanks for the information. Probably will wind up costing me some money. So now I'm curious...you lost the 3 blade fixed twice?? Why do you think that happened? You must have a been a little more than worried about losing the Autoprop after that. We lost the key in ours early on. Turns out they installed one that was too soft a material. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
lost prop
Dan, the first time, i think the dealer cracked the key when he installed it-and the key was way too short-only about 2/3 the slot length. when we hauled the boat, the two nuts were locked together,but backed off to the end of the shaft-theory 2-the nuts were bad,had threads that lined up when the nut faces were tight together.pieces of the key wedged between the shaft and the prop and kept them together, we didn't know anything was wrong until we hauled at the end of the year! the second time, the dealer replaced the prop(badly corroded) but reused the nuts-he swore it would never come off, but 8 hours later we were calling towboat US. The autoprop doesn't use any of the std mounting hardware, and the setscrew is at 90 degrees to the shaft. I think it's secure, and as long as the key doesn't break i don't think it can come off-and i've locktited both the nut and the setscrew.
Dan, the first time, i think the dealer cracked the key when he installed it-and the key was way too short-only about 2/3 the slot length. when we hauled the boat, the two nuts were locked together,but backed off to the end of the shaft-theory 2-the nuts were bad,had threads that lined up when the nut faces were tight together.pieces of the key wedged between the shaft and the prop and kept them together, we didn't know anything was wrong until we hauled at the end of the year! the second time, the dealer replaced the prop(badly corroded) but reused the nuts-he swore it would never come off, but 8 hours later we were calling towboat US. The autoprop doesn't use any of the std mounting hardware, and the setscrew is at 90 degrees to the shaft. I think it's secure, and as long as the key doesn't break i don't think it can come off-and i've locktited both the nut and the setscrew.
Memory
Chuck, I'm not sure I remember what they put in originally, but I think they went to stainless steel after. Frankly, I'm not certain about the materials. Maybe someone else has an idea of the range of possibilities. It was done under warrantee and I was not present when they hauled the boat. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
Chuck, I'm not sure I remember what they put in originally, but I think they went to stainless steel after. Frankly, I'm not certain about the materials. Maybe someone else has an idea of the range of possibilities. It was done under warrantee and I was not present when they hauled the boat. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije II)
prop key
Thanks, Dan! I'm going to check with my local prop shop...I've been using brass-i'm a little worried that a stainless key wouldn't shear if you hit something-and maybe do transmission damage--on the other hand, hitting something hard with your prop is going to be a bad experience anyway
Thanks, Dan! I'm going to check with my local prop shop...I've been using brass-i'm a little worried that a stainless key wouldn't shear if you hit something-and maybe do transmission damage--on the other hand, hitting something hard with your prop is going to be a bad experience anyway
- Status