Installing new Autopilot. Does anyone have experience with Simrad WP10 or Raymarine 4000 MK II? Thanks in Advance.
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J
Joe
Our WP just arrived
Our WP 10 just arrived, waiting in the box. We will be watching the responses, especially how to get wheel off our Hunter 31 and how to snake the wires up the pedestal. Come guys, give us some hints! joe
Our WP 10 just arrived, waiting in the box. We will be watching the responses, especially how to get wheel off our Hunter 31 and how to snake the wires up the pedestal. Come guys, give us some hints! joe
Yes.
Not exactly the WP10, but close. I have purchased the WP30 from sailnet (for only $100 more than WP10 you get interface capabilities plus a "free" wired remote control to the autopilot) and installed it on my 260. It was relatively simple install with one caveat. Where the stainless steel bands need to go around the pedestal, the pedestal is sloped (wider to narrower) on my 260, so I have had recurring issues with the bands slipping down and causing difficulties in steering. Have received several recommendations on this site to rememdy this situation by adding some type of foam / rubber material around the column to reduce the slippage. On the 260, there is an access panel in the aft berth that is just fore of the actual pedestal. I was able to route the electircal for the autopilot straight down the pedestal and then drilled a hole up from the access panel and then thread the wires through there (and caulk). After that I ran separate connections to the fuse panel. I went ahead and ran the interface cable for my handheld GPS down the pedestal column as well - but have not spent much time connecting / testing this functionailty. I haven't yet decided where I would like to put the plug for the remote control - so I haven't isntalled that yet - but looks pretty simple.
Not exactly the WP10, but close. I have purchased the WP30 from sailnet (for only $100 more than WP10 you get interface capabilities plus a "free" wired remote control to the autopilot) and installed it on my 260. It was relatively simple install with one caveat. Where the stainless steel bands need to go around the pedestal, the pedestal is sloped (wider to narrower) on my 260, so I have had recurring issues with the bands slipping down and causing difficulties in steering. Have received several recommendations on this site to rememdy this situation by adding some type of foam / rubber material around the column to reduce the slippage. On the 260, there is an access panel in the aft berth that is just fore of the actual pedestal. I was able to route the electircal for the autopilot straight down the pedestal and then drilled a hole up from the access panel and then thread the wires through there (and caulk). After that I ran separate connections to the fuse panel. I went ahead and ran the interface cable for my handheld GPS down the pedestal column as well - but have not spent much time connecting / testing this functionailty. I haven't yet decided where I would like to put the plug for the remote control - so I haven't isntalled that yet - but looks pretty simple.
I have a ST4000
I installed a ST4000 in my 272LE and love it. It was pretty easy to install. You can see pictures on how and where I installed all the components on my web page, just click on the link. Fair winds Gerry
I installed a ST4000 in my 272LE and love it. It was pretty easy to install. You can see pictures on how and where I installed all the components on my web page, just click on the link. Fair winds Gerry
Wheel removal
Joe: The NORMAL wheel removal is to unscrew the large nut and pull the wheel off. What typically happens is that no one ever removes these wheels so they are quite corroded. I would suggest that you spray the shaft with a good amount of WD-40 or one of the other rust dissolving sprays. Let is sit for a few hours (if necessary) and then remove. If it is still tough you can get a wheel remover that is used to remove pulley etc. When you re-attach the wheel, you should use some never seize on the shaft and key way. There has been some good advice on the installation recently. There is a rubber collar that they use for joining plastic to cast iron sewer pipes. This may be a good idea to shim the difference between the pedestal and the curve of the autopilot. The two biggest challenges are centering the WP and running the wires down the pedestal. Other than these, the installation is a breeze.
Joe: The NORMAL wheel removal is to unscrew the large nut and pull the wheel off. What typically happens is that no one ever removes these wheels so they are quite corroded. I would suggest that you spray the shaft with a good amount of WD-40 or one of the other rust dissolving sprays. Let is sit for a few hours (if necessary) and then remove. If it is still tough you can get a wheel remover that is used to remove pulley etc. When you re-attach the wheel, you should use some never seize on the shaft and key way. There has been some good advice on the installation recently. There is a rubber collar that they use for joining plastic to cast iron sewer pipes. This may be a good idea to shim the difference between the pedestal and the curve of the autopilot. The two biggest challenges are centering the WP and running the wires down the pedestal. Other than these, the installation is a breeze.
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