I am looking to install an auto pilot on my 386. Right now Im considering a CPT wheel pilot. Can another 386 owner tell me what auto pilot they've instLLED.
Auto Pilot
- Thread starter Waltsailor
- Start date
@Waltsailor , I recommend you look into a below deck linear drive based on your boat size. My previous Raymarine wheel pilot was at its limits or beyond. I am so glad I switched to the below deck auto pilot.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,806
Ehhhhh, I’m going to have to challenge you on that one a little. When considering a wheel based system, I believe a 18ft boat can require just as much force to manipulate the stearing linkage as a 40ft boat when out of trim. It depends on the stearing linkage/leverage. I agree that a stronger system is better for sure but it’s not directly related to simply the length of the boat. I bought a stonger system because the original couldn’t keep up.
As for wheel pilot systems.......I’ve put my CPT through some 20+ knot winds ( it’s the highest I’ve had so far) with my balance/trim way out by choice and it has been rock solid. I’m hesitant of being absolute given the limited time I’ve had it so I’m going to say it has been very promising so far. Its accessible and right there for adjustments while actually having a smaller footprint than my Autohelm 3000 (yes 3000) that I used for the past 4 years. $2400 vs what for a linear drive system? Now if I was going to be doing passages in following seas ( like you get a choice) Id consider something more capable of keeping up but probably go with a vane.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,806
Mike I agree that a vane is a great option. Passages are often down wind. So following seas are a part of the landscape.
Sailing around the PacificNW most of the time you beat north, deal with the currents and the swells/chop. Then you run south amid following seas.
The following seas are what challenge the wheel pilots. It does not take much push on the rudders we have to disturb the wheel gears and belts that control the system. It was evident crossing the Juan D Fuca with a quartering breeze coming in from the ocean combined with the swell and the wind wave made the motor strain as each swell raised up the stern and the boat shuddered on the crests and then slid back in the trough.
The bigger boat further challenges the capabilities of most wheel pilots.
Solve these issues with the linear system as it is the least cost for the power system needed.
The vane design addresses these issues as well.
Sailing around the PacificNW most of the time you beat north, deal with the currents and the swells/chop. Then you run south amid following seas.
The following seas are what challenge the wheel pilots. It does not take much push on the rudders we have to disturb the wheel gears and belts that control the system. It was evident crossing the Juan D Fuca with a quartering breeze coming in from the ocean combined with the swell and the wind wave made the motor strain as each swell raised up the stern and the boat shuddered on the crests and then slid back in the trough.
The bigger boat further challenges the capabilities of most wheel pilots.
Solve these issues with the linear system as it is the least cost for the power system needed.
The vane design addresses these issues as well.
My 2004 Hunter 386 had a Raymarine ST6001+ with a type 2 hydraulic linear drive (installation instructions attached). The ST6001+ controller may be discontinued. It was very stout and gave very good control, even with variable wind and current.
CPT is a good choice. Have used it on my 37.5 without any problems. My operational weight is 2100 lbs. Friend of mine uses his on a 58 ft 40000 lb cat.
Have you ever had the shear pins shear? I bought w extra set but was wondering what kind of force would be needed for them to break. My only gripe ( if it is one) is the inability to easily shorten the cable between the controller and drive box.
I’m also wanting to R nd R my autopilot on my H376. I was going to replace the electronic components, computer, head etc but keep the motor in the pedestal. I assume the motor is original equipment. Not sure what kind of system this is called. Any comments. Thanks
Attachments
Looks like a rotary drive autopilot. What manufacture autopilot control do you have now?
Have not had shear pin break but have spares just in case. Not sure why you need to modify cable but call the folks at CPT. They are very helpful and would most likely modify it for you.
Autohelm. I think made by ray marine. It doesn’t work now. I showed photos of parts to electronics guy at west marine and he told me they are the very old style. I bought the boat several months ago and upgrading a lot of stuff and I want a good reliable ap
I had a belt drive and controller Autohelm in the cockpit on my 1987 Hunter 31. Replaced it with a Raymarine wheel autopilot and companion controller. I wonder if Raymarine can confirm if you can install a new controller that will work with your drive unit?
Good question. I hope I find out before spending 3 k on new stuff. Figuring out autopilot stuff is about the only thing I don’t know about my boat. I think
If the motor still works but it's just the electronics that are shot, maybe you should contact Pelagic Autopilots and see if their controls could work in conjunction with your motor. It should be able to.
Go with a below deck linear drive.
It’s not a matter if the motor can turn the wheel. Essentially, a wheel pilot could drive my 49,,, just not well.
The below deck pilots use better sensors & you also want a rudder reference.
I won’t debate that a wheel pilot can steer your boat. But I know a number of 36 -38 foot owners who just got tired of the constant significant motion on their wheel.
The new inboard pilots are very impressive, as they measure pitch & roll, and anticipate the required corrections. The old methods of just using a single flux gate for port & stbd offset are way out of date
For your boat, I’d go with the ACU -200 and the EV-1 sensor. You won’t be disappointed .
Walt, which pedestal do you have on your 386? My 2003 has the large fiberglass pedestal wrapped around the Edson rack and pinion steering. On this model, there is a Raymarine rotary driving a chain on the wheel shaft.
If you have the smaller pedestal that was on the later 386’s I’d go with below deck linear.
For me the existing drive and clutch were in great shape, but upgrading the computer to the EV-200 with the EV1 gyro compass unit. I had upgraded the wheel pilot on my H31 to the EV100, and loved it. What ever you pick, be sure to network it to your wind and speed sensors. The Ray units will sail a wind angle, and alarm if there is too large a wind shit, perfect for single/short handing.
I have the ridiculously large tables on the console. The large console created some clearance issues for the belt but I was able to get enough room for everything to work. Unit is installed. I,m still on the hard but should get to test drive it in a few weeks.
I upgraded from thé 'old' wheel pilot to the New ev100 and gyro calculateur. Quite often in 30+ gusts and she holds it no problem!! The direct shaft helps a lot for this. A beneteau with chain and linkage wouldn't do such a good job.
I have new sails too so instead of heeling when gusts come in she accelerates
I have new sails too so instead of heeling when gusts come in she accelerates