August Sailing Quiz: How did you do?

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Walter Jones

Since I know how to repair..

the simple electrical systems on my boats I didn't read his book or even have a clue who he was. I still want to see you drive a plug in a broken through hull with a multi meter :) I don't wear shoes on my boat.
 
E

Ed Ruiz

It's an Extech RMS Multimeter.

It can read up to 10 Amps DC or AC. Paid about $50 for it. A multimeter would make a lousy plug for a broken thru-hull, but some rags or even a T-shirt would probably work. Although you may not were shoes, you do have clothes on board - don't you? ~ Happy sails to you ~ _/) ~
 
Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
Bahamian moor question????

I can't either understand or accept the so-called correct answer to the question about anchoring in the tight anchorage. Since when does a Bahamian moor help when the shift will be 90 degrees? As I understand it, a Bahamian moor is one line to shore and one line to the anchor. If the swell or wind shifted 90 degrees you would be held beam-on to it-- NOT a comfortable position. I chose the answer of using two anchors set where at least one would pull straight on either way. This is what our club recommends in the river-- there have been just too many boats dragging a single 250-lb mushroom when the tide shift uproots the thing. Also, up- and down-river anchors mean the scope for each of them needs to be only as long as one of them would need (since the other one never pulls at the same time). With a Bahamian moor you'd need full scope on the anchor plus you'd need to be far enough off shore to avoid the rocks. This is definitely NOT what I would do in a 'tight' anchorage-- I actually thought this was the dummy answer. Maybe I'm just a dummy after all--?? JC 2
 
B

Brian

One line to shore is...

One line to shore is not the "Bahmamian moor" A Bahamian moor is where you travel upwind or current and drop one and continue to ease out scope till the desired length say 100'. Then you continue up wind/current another 100' (paying out scope on the first anchor for a total of 200') and drop the second anchor. At this point you ease back downwind current/wind till the 100' of rode is out and set the second anchor while reducing the first anchor rode to its original 100'. So now you have one anchor set upstream/windand one set downstream/wind. Brian s/v CREW REST
 
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Ben

Thanks Brian

. . .for clarifying the anchoring question. I was hoping somebody would explain that term. As for the most valuable tool, I also have to take issue with the multi-meter being the most valuable. For one thing, it's pretty much impossible to name one tool as the most important. Second, the answer to that question (if there is an answer) will vary by the type of boat. Given that I have a small boat, which I take out on daysails in good weather, close to home, an electrical/electronic malfunction probably won't keep me from getting home. I certainly use my sounder, but I don't need it to find my way home. A major problem for me is more likely to be mechanical in nature, at which point I'd be more likely to search for a leatherman or swiss army-type of tool.
 
T

Tom Monroe

The trouble with adults and "tests" is ...

... that the adult (male?) ego kicks in. I think these things are supposed to be FUN. You don't have to bring the score home to mom and dad to get permission to use the car Saturday night! Tom Monroe Carlyle Lake
 
D

Dan McGuire

Fun to Discuss

The tests are fun. So is the discussion, especially if it is somewhat controversial. The discussion is also very imformative.
 
G

Gary Wyngarden

Quiz answers, sources, and discussion

1. The correct answer is three degrees. With 700 quiz responses in, 48% got this right. Why have any weather helm? Rousmaniere says it provides a frame of reference and feel to have a little helm pressure that helps the helmsperson steer a more consistent course. Much more than the minimum amount induces drag off the rudder which slows the boat down and stresses the steering gear. 2. The correct answer is the third one, measure with your boat out of the water and mark your wheel or cockpit sole. 25% got this right. The difference between your compass heading and gps course made good will measure cross current. The angle of deflection of turbulence off your rudder is a reasonable indicator but would be hard to accurately measure underway. Dennis Conner's recommendation is the answer given. 3. All of the above is the correct answer. 78% got this correct which is good news. 4. All of the above is also correct for this one and 75% got this right. 5. The correct answer is low voltage in the power supply. Only 30% got this right. Terminology first. The pump that circulates water from outside the hull through a heat exchanger to cool your engine is usually referred to as a raw water pump. The pump that circulates potable water from your tank through your plumbing to the galley and the head(s) is usually referred to as a fresh water pump. Nigel Calder says "the number one cause of DC motor failure is low voltage. . . the major causes of unwanted voltage drop are poor connections and inadequate wiring." So if your freshwater pump stops operating (or any other DC motor), look for low voltage. How do you do that? Use a multimeter! More on this later. 6. The correct answer is to use a Bahamian Moor technique. 47% got this right. A Bahamian Moor requires two anchors and one particularly long rode. Drop you first anchor upwind, pay out your normal scope and set your anchor. Then back down an equal distance to your initial scope, drop a second anchor off the stern, and set it. Finally return to your initial anchored position (halfway between the two anchors) and lead the stern anchor rode to the bow. This will permit the boat to spin 360 degrees with whatever wind shifts in pretty much a fixed position and with very limited swing room requirment. A fore and aft anchor technique will leave you beam to the wind if the predicted 90 degree wind shift happens. I will never recommend cheating on scope. And with the Bahamian Moor technique, there's no reason to miss out on this beautiful anchorage by leaving to go elsewhere. 7. The correct answer according to the ASA is to use your depth sounder and follow a depth contour on your chart. 57% got this right. Using your last estimated position and following a magnetic course may work if your estimated position was accurate and there's no current or leeway going on. Dropping the hook leaves you vulnerable to getting run over by other boats with no opportunity to move out of the way. If you don't know where you are, the Coasties probably won't be able to help you, and you should be self sufficient in these situations anyway. 8. The correct answer is five short blasts which is the danger signal. 65% got this right. 9. The correct answer is a poorly designed or constructed boat. 71% got this right. According to Rousmaniere, the problems usually stem from bad decisions and/or lack of preparation on the skipper's part, not the boat's designers or builders. (This is not to suggest we take our production sailboats to the Southern Ocean to test the theory!) 10. Well of course it's the multimeter! Only 24% got this right. Specifically Calder says "In fact given a knowledge of how to use it, I would go so far as to say that it's possibly the single most important tool on a boat!" A few points of clarification. My first boat was an O'Day Day Sailor on which I had a huge amount of fun but which had nothing electric on it. Obviously a multimeter would have been of no use. However, with a larger and more complex boat with electronics, batteries, motors, etc. understanding how to diagnose and correct electrical problems becomes extremely important. The question didn't say if I could take one tool, what would it be. You obviously need a whole lot of tools and spare parts depending on what kind of sailing you do. If you've read Calder, you know he's not given to exaggeration. If someone of his stature makes this kind of recommendation, it behooves the rest of us to seriously consider buying and learning how to use a multimeter. As always, I hope you had fun with the quiz and maybe learned something. Gary Wyngarden S/V Shibumi H335
 
C

Craig

multimeter??????

After reading all the posts (great discussion by the way) I also have to throw my lot in with the people who are questioning this. I can't think of a single situation that I've said Oh S*&^ where's my meter? I would submit that if your problem is deep enough to need the meter you probably aren't going to be able to fix it there anyway. That's not to say the meter is not handy, but I could sure get along without it.
 
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Ramblin' Rod

Bahamian moor with 90 degree windshift

If you have set up a bahamian mooring (one anchor upwind and another downwind, both off the bow), and the wind shifts 90 degrees, you hang off both anchors in a V, and your swing room is significantly reduced compared to just hanging off one hook. If you used anchors off bow and stern, 180 degrees opposed, and the wind shifted 90 degrees you would be beam to wind and presenting the most windage (and risk of dragging) possible. If the wind has sufficient fetch over water to produce waves, you're also in for a rough night.
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Useful weather helm - for Gary

A little weather helm is good for all the reasons you cited. However, a little weather helm can also creates hydrodynamic lift, which can help the boat point better. To counteract weather helm when sailing upwind, the rudder is angled slightly to leeward. The angle forces the water flowing over the keel and rudder to move farther (and faster) on the windward side of the centerline than the leeward side. The slight difference in speed causes lower water pressure on the windward side and higher pressure on the leeward side. Voila...lift! And in the right direction too. There are some drawbacks. More rudder angle causes drag. A lot more angle stalls the blade and destroys the lift. Hydrodynamic lift is limited mostly to light keelboats with enough sail power to produce the boatspeed needed to develop it. Cruising sailors probably won't see much, if any. Peter H23 "Raven"
 
Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
Re: me not knowing correct use of 'Bahamian moor'

Thanks, guys, for clearing me up. In other words, I got it right, but not knowing the correct meaning of the term I saw I picked the wrong answer. What you guys told me is exactly what our club recommends in the river. Works fine for 180-degree current shifts. For a predicted 90-degree shift all you do is set them 90 degrees apart. Not hard when you know what to expect. Maybe now someone can tell this dummy what we call the procedure in the Caribbean and in Europe in which an acnhor is set off the bow and the boat is backed to the quay and tied with stern lines as usual, used when there is no other way to tie up the bow end of the boat. I always thought THIS was called a 'Bahamian moor'. JC 2
 
J

Johnny

Any Pump?

I agree, that question was vague at the least. I have 4 Fresh water pumps for my Sink, Head, Rinser and Live Well. That setup was on my SJ-24 and is going to be on my Hun22. I use to be a Plumber so I use 4 because if one breaks,,I can transfer its use over to any item that is needed. It also uses smaller Pumps this way so the Battery Drain is not as bad as one Large. They are all on a Circuit Board with independant Fuses and Switches. (a Rinser runs to a Mast Mouted Shower or a way to clean up without polluting)
 
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SailboatOwners.com

Final results

Final results for the Quick Quiz ending August 10, 2003: How many questions did you answer correctly on the sailing skills quiz?    38% 6 - 7  35% 4 - 5  25% 0 - 3 14% 8 or more 
 
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Dan Rudek

Overtaking

According to Nav Rule 34 an overtaking vessel sounds 2 short blasts if it intends to overtake you on your port side. Not to get nit picky but I don't believe there is such a thing as a long blast, it is a prolonged blast.
 
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