Attempting to make a new hatch cover

[toddco]

Hello All,
The cockpit seat of my Oday 20 was cut to add another hatch on the port side by a previous owner. The modification might have looked OK back in 1975, but the hatch cover is missing. I would buy a prefab hatch to fit the hole, but they tried to mirror the starboard side which rolls over the edge. I guess I'll try and make a fiberglass hatch cover. I can build a mold to the right size, but I need to recreate the non skid texture. My plan is to press window screen mesh into clay in the bottom of the mold. If all goes well, this should be a one time use mold. Any tips or suggestions welcome.

regards,

Todd

 

[kpgraci]

I don't recall the details so this may not be much help, but in Casey's This Old Boat he used a technique to transfer the non-skip pattern from one part of the deck to the repair patch. Might be worth looking up to see how he did it.

 

[finding41]

I wouldn't use window screen. The lines will fill with dirt.
Maybe try and find another textured thing that won't leave deep un-cleanable groves.
OR. Just add the anti slip after when you are painting. We use a Silica sand when we paint floors and stair treads. It does a great job. I prepare the surface (a light sanding with 180/220 grit and a cleaning)and paint. I sprinkle the Silica sand on like salt. Don't go over board with the amount. Just make it even.
Then paint 2 more coats of paint after it has dried.
Its that simple. Easy to clean the finished product too!
NOTE: Silica causes lung cancer. Don't breathe it.
We use it because it is a solid piece of sand with very few cracks in its structure. All other sand is full of tiny cracks. These cracks allow for water penetration and ultimately paint failure. There are other products out there that simulate Silica sand. I have not used any so can't comment on them. Ask at the paint or hardware store. (Not a big box one!)

 

[Merlin Clark]

There is a big thread called something like "27 years later" and the member is restoring, IIRC, a 27 O'day and has found a place to by a embossing stamp plate or something like that to do just what you are talking about.
I tried to find it but me and the search function don't play well together.

 

[Merlin Clark]

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=123244
this is the thread Toddco. No wonder I couldn't find it!

 

[Ross]

You could make a rope mat and bond it to the cover. http://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-to-make-a-rope-rug-eh/263578

 

[finding41]

I thought I'd mention another way of getting the non slip pattern. We used this in College.
1; Clean a large area of non slip. (2'x2' or 2'x18" if you can get that size. Its easier to work with.)
2; Make a dam around the area with some type of playdogh (Home made NO color!) a release agent. (Pam, or other thin non stick cooking spray.) NOTE: Check for color of spray. You don't want anything staining the deck.
3; Apply a thin layer of rubber latex with a brush. Work form one side to the other quickly. Don't mess with it. It drys fast but will drag if touched up wrong. Let it sit.
4; Apply 3 more coats just like above. Remember thin coats.
5; Apply a layer of cheese cloth or any other woven fabric. Saturate this but don't go over board. Too much latex at once makes it dry all screwy and misshaped.
6; Same as #5.
7; Let it dry.
8; Gently remove it from your deck.
You now have a rubber stamp mat. Just like those guys that do concrete driveways.

To get your pattern on your hatch cover:
1; Mask off the area that you don't want bumpy.
2; Brush what ever resin product you are using on the area to be made bumpy. Use approximately the amount that you figure will fill up the bumps of the mat.
3; Apply release agent to the mat.
4; Start in the middle and work to the edges by gently placing the center of the mat there and smoothing the bubbles out from underneath. You should have a thicker mix or hotter mix for this and its going to harden fast.
5; Remove masking before it dries! You may want to feather the edge with something if it looks too abrupt. (You can always sand it after.)

NOTE; DO NOT leave the mat on the work area to dry. You can lift and re-place the mat to do larger areas. Keep the mat in one direction. Just be genital ware things meet. Watch that the mat isn't picking up (Material) between stampings or leaving edge marks. If so wash it off and apply more release agent.
Work quickly and have all the tools needed ready.
Practice once or twice on a piece of cardboard. Especially the area ware 2 stamps meet.
Good luck.
Oh, the mat will only last about 6 months before it starts to change shape. Shrink.

 

[toddco]

First attempt was a bust. My hatch cover fit well, but the non skid was a mess. The noteworthy part of this is the hatch opening is not square. By molding my own cover, I can skew the lid to match. Next attempt probably this weekend.

Thank you everyone for the advice.

 

[25yearslater]

Hi Toddco. Stop, whoa , hold it. US Composites sells urethane rubber liquid that I used to duplicate the nonskid from a female mold I purchased from Gibco Flex Mold through Minicraft of Florida. The 74-30 urethane captures the original pattern and it is a simple matter to use these molds to 'cast' a brand new original nonskid deck. Flex Mold isn't cheap so the best bet is to capture a section of your deck with the urethane. Spray with Pol-ease and spread it over a suitable section. Wait a day and you can add window screen and another layer of urethane to the initial pour for a super mold on the cheap. It works well once you get the hang of it.

 

[toddco]

Thanks 25,
I followed your rebuild posts and am in awe. My fiberglassing is probably on hold for a few days anyway. My 15 yr old shoots trap and this coming week is the beginning of the "Grand American".

regards,


Todd