Attaching the mainsail

Status
Not open for further replies.
J

Jay

Hi. We're planning to take our Hunter 23 out for the first time this weekend, and I have a question about putting the mainsail on. In the 2 (general sailing) books in which I've looked, there is always a fitting (a pin) at the forward end of the boom with which to secure the tack cringle of the mainsail. I looked last weekend, and I didn't see such a fitting. I didn't think to note the boom/mast manufacturer, but I think it is made in France. So how do you attach the tack cringle? On the other end of the foot, I think you just feed the outhaul line through the clew cringle and use a stopper knot to keep it from coming out. Is that right? Or do you use a bowline. I've already read about the jiffy reefing line, so I think I'm ok in the middle (which is something, anyway!). It's getting to be about 6 weeks since I watched the seller remove everything, so this is all getting a bit fuzzy. Thanks for any help you can give.
 
G

Gino

Shackle it or Tie it

The tack is usually secured to the mast fitting by a shackle, however if the shackle isn't available you can also use light nylon line to lash it in place. Don't forget to lift the reefing hook up before attaching the boom to the mast.
 
K

Keith Smoot

How I rig my 87H-23

Ok, try this, First, use the topping lift to raise and lock the boom above horizontal. At the aft end of the boom are the outhaul and topping lift sheaves and lines. On the forward end of the boom you will find the cleat handles for these lines. Use a shackle if available or a bowline if not. Secure the outhaul line to the clew of the mainsail. Pull the slug and the boltrope slowly the length of the boom. When finished, you should find a purpose-made shackle through the hole at the foot of the sail, near the mast. This shackle should have a threaded rod that will pass through a short post on the top of the gooseneck hinge. This post and hinge allows left and right movement of the boom. This threaded rod goes through one side of this shackle, through the short post in the hinge pin, and thread into the other side of the shackle. Now up the mast. Shackle your main halyard to the headboard on the tip top of the mainsail. Locate the wide spot in the mainsail luff groove to insert the slugs or sliders on the mainsail. You may have to remove a pin or other device to allow the slugs to go into the groove. Slowly pull on the main halyard and raise the sail, inserting the slugs one at at time as they approach the luff groove opening. After you have all the slugs in the groove, reinstall the pin to prevent the slugs from falling out when you release the halyard. Motor out to a safe spot to raise the sails. People's opinions vary, but I like to raise the jib first, adjust the jib so Gwaihir is sailing on her jib, then raise the main. Raise the main, cleat the halyard, then ease the topping lift until the boom is down and the topping lift is slightly slack. Cleat the topping lift, adjust the traveler and mainsheet, then sail away. Any questions on your H-23(congrats) just call me at snark11@aol.com. I have owned, modified, and raced this fine cruising boat for many years now, and would'nt have another. Keith and Wanda S/V Gwaihir, 87 H-23
 
J

Jay

First time with new H23. Thanks...

Thanks for the help! As it turned out, everything was pretty obvious once we got out to the boat and took the sail out. There was a fairly unobtrusive eye built into the top of the gooseneck (on the mast) and the shackle had been left on the tack corner of the mainsail. There was also a shackle on the outhaul. Anyway, our first day out (Sun.) we had very light wind (2-3 kn, at a guess), which was enough to sail with most of the time. But eventually, we motored back in to save time. Since this was my first time sailing with my own boat (where I actually had to concentrate on every single thing we were doing), it was probably good that the air was so light. Today (Mon.), things were much more exciting. The forcast for the Chesapeake was for 5-10 knots, but I think we had gusts at least to 13 or so. I'm guessing, since we don't have a wind gauge. But we'd go from 5-10 degrees of heel over to 30 degrees in a second or two. Which was more excitement than I'd planned on. The rational side of my brain knew this was ok (based on what I've read in this forum), but doing it on your second day is something else. After a bit of this, we (roller) reefed up the jib, which helped some. We figured out about midway through the sail that once we got out beyond the point of land just south of our Rock creek inlet, the (southerly) wind was picking way up because it was no longer obstructed. Anyway, thanks again for the help with my ignorant questions. I think we had a pretty successful first couple of days, and much of it was due to my (somewhat obsessive, my wife would say) reading of this forum over the past 6 weeks. After a while, though, you need to get out and do it. Jay
 
Apr 19, 1999
1,670
Pearson Wanderer Titusville, Florida
Learn how to reef the main as soon as you can

You did the right thing by furling the jib. That is by far the fastest way to depower the sails, and I have sailed many times in heavy air under mainsail alone. However, before too much longer you should learn how to reef the main. That will allow you to keep the jib up in heavier air while improving the speed and balance of the boat. Another important skill is knowing how to heave-to. This is extremely useful for stopping the boat and keeping it under control in heavy air and waves when you need to take a break. You can also reef the main while the boat is hove-to. First, pick a location with enough room to leeward for your proposed stop. Make sure you won't drift onto any shoals or other obstructions. Then, change course so you are sailing close-hauled on port tack (wind coming from port side of boat. Now, come about onto starboard tack, but do NOT uncleat the jibsheet. As the bow passes through the eye of the wind, bring the tiller (it should still be to starboard) hard to leeward (now the port side) almost as if you were going to tack again and hold it there. At the same time, ease the mainsheet all the way out. The boat will come upright at about a 60 degree angle to the wind and stop. Adjust the tiller and the mainsheet slightly as needed to keep the boat steady (it should drift slowly to leeward, or alternately head up slightly and then fall back off) with a small patch of relatively calm water to windward. Cleat the mainsheet and lash the tiller in place. The backwinded jib, eased mainsail and off-center tiller will all work together to hold the boat in position. The motion will be surprisingly easy. When you're ready to go, untie the tiller then uncleat the jib sheet. The jib will drop over to the port side of the boat. Center the tiller, trim the main and jib, and you're away! The reason for heaving-to on starboard tack is that you will still have the right-of-way. Technically, the boat is still under way, as you have sails up and anchor stowed. Also, with the mainsail streaming off to port, you will be on the windward side of the boat and have clear access to all sail controls. Try both these maneuvers until you have them cold and can do them in the dark without thinking. Happy sailing! Peter H23 "Raven"
 
J

Jay

Thanks, Peter.

Sounds like some good advice. I'll give it a shot. Jay
 
Status
Not open for further replies.