Attaching Forestay while afloat

[midgard IV]

2004 Hunter 170 – Due to a low bridge between our launch ramp and the bay (where the wind is), we must lower the mast every time we go out. Attaching the forestay when on the trailer is no problem, as there is a winch on the trailer that we use to pull the mast forward to allow us to attach the forestay to the jib roller.

Our problem is attaching (and releasing) the forestay when the boat is afloat. So far we tie off at a public dock and from several feet in front of the boat, pull the mast forward using a line attached about ¾ the way up the mast. This is a pain as it requires two crew as well as having to dock.

Would the installation of Johnson Quick Release Stay Adjusters allow us to raise and lower the mast while afloat?

We would like to have a system where one can lower and raise the mast single handed while afloat. Does anybody have any ideas?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

As a former dealer who introduced this boat for Hunter Marine and outsold all other dealers, this is imput I gave to my customers particularly those who had to do the same thing at low bridging.

First, this is an aluminum mast and the weight of the mast is not that great. However, any daysailor no matter of manufacturer or width is more tender than a larger sailboat for example a Catalina 22/18, Hunter 22/23.5 or a Precision 21. Therefore, what ever you do, never stand on any seats to support the mast but rather in the middle of the cockpit only; otherwise, you could tip the boat over. This is true with small daysailors.

Leave the forward cover off in front of the mast on the 170. Add a spinnaker block with spinnaker halyard long enough for this raising of the mast that would be attached to the most forward hole of the forestay chain plate running thru the spinnaker block, down the mast exiting via a small mast swivel cam cleat attached to the side of the mast. Instead of using a regular clevis pin for the forestay attachment, some used a small d tent ball clevis pin but if doing this, I would always suggest leaving the spinnaker halyard attached.

You would then lift the mast up standing in the center of the boat while pulling on the spinnaker halyard. With the mast up, I would further advise the spinnaker halyard also be tied to a cleat in the event the line from the cam cleat came loose so not to loose the mast. Then remove the detent ball clevis pin. Always leave the spinnaker halyard attached as safety measure in the event that d tent ball clevis pin accidentally came out.

L

 

[py26129]

2004 Hunter 170 – Due to a low bridge between our launch ramp and the bay (where the wind is), we must lower the mast every time we go out. Attaching the forestay when on the trailer is no problem, as there is a winch on the trailer that we use to pull the mast forward to allow us to attach the forestay to the jib roller.

Our problem is attaching (and releasing) the forestay when the boat is afloat. So far we tie off at a public dock and from several feet in front of the boat, pull the mast forward using a line attached about ¾ the way up the mast. This is a pain as it requires two crew as well as having to dock.

Would the installation of Johnson Quick Release Stay Adjusters allow us to raise and lower the mast while afloat?

We would like to have a system where one can lower and raise the mast single handed while afloat. Does anybody have any ideas?

When we used to do this on our Shark, I used to attach a block near the bow, attach a line to the jib halyard and lead teh line back to the cockpit via the block. Then we used the cockpit winches to tighen the line until we were able to attack the forestay.

Cheers

Matt

 

[midgard IV]

As a former dealer who introduced this boat for Hunter Marine and outsold all other dealers, this is imput I gave to my customers particularly those who had to do the same thing at low bridging.

First, this is an aluminum mast and the weight of the mast is not that great. However, any daysailor no matter of manufacturer or width is more tender than a larger sailboat for example a Catalina 22/18, Hunter 22/23.5 or a Precision 21. Therefore, what ever you do, never stand on any seats to support the mast but rather in the middle of the cockpit only; otherwise, you could tip the boat over. This is true with small daysailors.

Leave the forward cover off in front of the mast on the 170. Add a spinnaker block with spinnaker halyard long enough for this raising of the mast that would be attached to the most forward hole of the forestay chain plate running thru the spinnaker block, down the mast exiting via a small mast swivel cam cleat attached to the side of the mast. Instead of using a regular clevis pin for the forestay attachment, some used a small d tent ball clevis pin but if doing this, I would always suggest leaving the spinnaker halyard attached.

You would then lift the mast up standing in the center of the boat while pulling on the spinnaker halyard. With the mast up, I would further advise the spinnaker halyard also be tied to a cleat in the event the line from the cam cleat came loose so not to loose the mast. Then remove the detent ball clevis pin. Always leave the spinnaker halyard attached as safety measure in the event that d tent ball clevis pin accidentally came out.

L

Thanks, Dave. Is this what you mean?

 

[midgard IV]

When we used to do this on our Shark, I used to attach a block near the bow, attach a line to the jib halyard and lead teh line back to the cockpit via the block. Then we used the cockpit winches to tighen the line until we were able to attack the forestay.

Cheers

Matt

Thanks, Matt. We need another halyard, as our jib halyard and forestay are one and the same, as we have a roller furling jib.............

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Yes on the diagram. IN addition that extra halyard acts as a safety while you are putting the clevis pin in and you can tighten up on as well to give you slack on the forestay which to pin with.

 

[isaksp00]

I raise the mast on my H23 exactly as Matt described, using the jib sheet winches. Now, I do mine on the trailer and not on the water, but the principle is the same and the H23 is a heavier mast.

 

[Kermit]

I don't know how heavy your mast is, but on our H23 we detach the main sheet from the boom and use it along with the spin halyard and an a frame attached to the stanchions. Makes the mast much easier to handle.

 

[Counting Stars]

I keep my boat under low lying bridge !!! I take tension then work my way up tensioning pushing , tensioning pushing ... Stay centered like previous comment ... With time confidence will just be routine before you know it.. Be sure to keep headway and secure tiller centerline... Lookup once in a while make sure no one is coming or worse run into something!!

 

[midgard IV]

We want to be able to raise (and lower) the mast single handed while afloat.

It’s been suggested that we rig a secondary forestay from a point ahead of the roller-furling jib halyard/forestay and run it down inside the mast to a cam block on the mast. Our mast is foam filled, and there is no room on the cast masthead fitting for an additional block, so we had to develop “plan B”.

My plan, which I have not yet installed, is to mount a block with a becket ahead of the lower forestay eye and another block above the jib halyard/forestay on the front of the mast. Run a line from the becket to the block on the mast, back down to the block on the bow then back to the cockpit, thereby creating a secondary forestay. You could use the Topping Lift with an extension line attached, but you would not have the leverage that is provided by the blocks.

With the shrouds connected, step and raise the mast as far as possible. Tighten the secondary forestay line as tight as possible and cleat it off at one of the jib sheet cam cleats. If the two blocks on the secondary forestay don’t give enough leverage, disconnect the Main Sheet from the boom (to which you have attached a snap shackle), release it as much as needed, then attached the forestay line to the snap shackle. (Once you’ve done this a couple of times, you can attached a thimble or shackle to this line at this point) Haul in the Main Sheet and cleat it off. That should provide enough leverage to allow you go forward and attach the pin on the jib halyard. I like the idea of using the pin below the drum rather than the one above, as the jib tack gets in the way of the forestay eye above the drum.

When the forestay is connected, remove the line from the Main Sheet and reattach the Main Sheet to the boom. Cleat off the secondary forestay to a cleat on the bottom of the mast or on an out-of-the-way spot on the cockpit floor.

Reverse this procedure to remove the forestay pin to lower the mast.

 

[Bill Daniel]

If you look at the manual for Hunter 212 you'll see a guy and jin pole set up. I use the jib halyard on one side of the Jin pole and a block and tackle from a Hobby cat attached to the for stay attachment to raise and lower my mast on or off the water. It has served me well accept when I didn't put on the side guys and the mast swung off to the side and I had to repair a ripped mast where the Jin pole attached.