This is my first time changing the oil in my Redwing 30. I bought one of those oil extractor pumps today, but no oil yet. The engine is circa 1968, and I'm in the frozen north of Toronto. What is a good oil to use? What weight? Synthetic? How much? Going to the boat tomorrow afternoon, and HOPEFULLY going to get some work done. This crappy weather we're having is backing up the work! Thanks in advance!
Atomic 4 >> what oil to use??
- Thread starter Eric s/v Windrush
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A4
You proalby know this - be sure to get the oil good and warm before you pump it out. If you did not know that, then you do need to know that you will get zero oil out with an extractor pump at this time of year with an engine that has sat all winter. You gotta get the oil up to normal operating temperatures. Put the boat in and get the engine going. Word of caution on initial start up: If the A4 fails to fire up after a few attempts, close off the engine raw water intake (unless you have an enclosed cooling system, which I doubt). These engines can get water into the cylinders if it backs up from the exhaust which can happen if you keep cranking the starter too long w/o a start up. As I recall the A4 works with 3 to 5 qts depending on the angle of installation. I would put 3 qts in and see how the level was. My old A4 took 3. I stored with 10W30 in winter. In season used straight 30. I could never decide whether it was better to do the oil change before layup or after so I decided to do both. This meant at least two oil changes a year. The A4, with no oil filter, should get a change every 50 hours regardless. If you come over here to Olcott to visit us and have to motor both ways that will be 15 hours on the old A4 but I bet she would make it no problem. I'm buying your beers at the Olcott Yacht Club. If I overdid it on the info I apologize. It was hard for me to tell how much you needed to know.
You proalby know this - be sure to get the oil good and warm before you pump it out. If you did not know that, then you do need to know that you will get zero oil out with an extractor pump at this time of year with an engine that has sat all winter. You gotta get the oil up to normal operating temperatures. Put the boat in and get the engine going. Word of caution on initial start up: If the A4 fails to fire up after a few attempts, close off the engine raw water intake (unless you have an enclosed cooling system, which I doubt). These engines can get water into the cylinders if it backs up from the exhaust which can happen if you keep cranking the starter too long w/o a start up. As I recall the A4 works with 3 to 5 qts depending on the angle of installation. I would put 3 qts in and see how the level was. My old A4 took 3. I stored with 10W30 in winter. In season used straight 30. I could never decide whether it was better to do the oil change before layup or after so I decided to do both. This meant at least two oil changes a year. The A4, with no oil filter, should get a change every 50 hours regardless. If you come over here to Olcott to visit us and have to motor both ways that will be 15 hours on the old A4 but I bet she would make it no problem. I'm buying your beers at the Olcott Yacht Club. If I overdid it on the info I apologize. It was hard for me to tell how much you needed to know.
Straight 30 weight.
I have been told that straight 30 weight oil is recommended for the A4. If you havent already check out moyer marine on the web, it a great source of information on the A$. If you give them a call they will answer questions and give advice. I attached thier link. Bill
I have been told that straight 30 weight oil is recommended for the A4. If you havent already check out moyer marine on the web, it a great source of information on the A$. If you give them a call they will answer questions and give advice. I attached thier link. Bill
Synthetic
I dunno..It seems to me that synthetic is better in all ways for a healthy engine. Why would you want everything sludged up?
I dunno..It seems to me that synthetic is better in all ways for a healthy engine. Why would you want everything sludged up?
I have studied oil and be careful
I maintain an old TR3 which has been with me since 1974. Your atomic 4 is an older engine and synthetics can cause leaks. If you want to take a chance and all the seals are in great condition you can give it a try. I would use a product called auto-rx before switching to synthetic. It has a web site www.auto-rx.com It cleans the engine out and make the seals pliable so you have less leaks. I have kept the TR3 on regular oil with great success. The newer oils are not formulated for old engines. Older engines did not have roller bearings and used flat tappets. The additive to keep them from wearing has been lowered in all oils in gasoline engines for catalitic converter reasons. The oils formulated for diesels are the closes thing we have to the old oils. Chevron Delo 400 which comes in a 15w-40 at walmart is what I would recomend on any older engine. They also make it in a 10w-30 but it is hard to find. Rotella 15w-40 is also an excellent choice.
I maintain an old TR3 which has been with me since 1974. Your atomic 4 is an older engine and synthetics can cause leaks. If you want to take a chance and all the seals are in great condition you can give it a try. I would use a product called auto-rx before switching to synthetic. It has a web site www.auto-rx.com It cleans the engine out and make the seals pliable so you have less leaks. I have kept the TR3 on regular oil with great success. The newer oils are not formulated for old engines. Older engines did not have roller bearings and used flat tappets. The additive to keep them from wearing has been lowered in all oils in gasoline engines for catalitic converter reasons. The oils formulated for diesels are the closes thing we have to the old oils. Chevron Delo 400 which comes in a 15w-40 at walmart is what I would recomend on any older engine. They also make it in a 10w-30 but it is hard to find. Rotella 15w-40 is also an excellent choice.
A4 SAE 30 only. My A4 likes Rotella T
of so the PO told me 4 years ago when we got our boat. Everything everyone has said is on the money; warm up engine oil first, MoyerMarine.com has replacement parts for A4 engines and is a great resource. I hope you bought an electric oil extractor pump as the manual ones will give you quite a workout. If you have to run the engine on the hard (I assume you are out of the water) you should provide some cooling water for it. Our raw water intake is setup with a 'T' fitting that connects to a water hose fixture on deck that a water hose can be attached to. Close the raw water intake vale, attach a water hose, turn it on and voila! The only other danger about running the engine on the hard is the cutlass bearing which normally relies upon the surrounding water for lubrication. Obviously you dont want to run the engine in gear but with our engine (1967) even in neutral the propellor spins a bit. You can spray water on the shaft/cutlass bearing from the outside if you want to protect the bearing from getting prematurely eroded.
of so the PO told me 4 years ago when we got our boat. Everything everyone has said is on the money; warm up engine oil first, MoyerMarine.com has replacement parts for A4 engines and is a great resource. I hope you bought an electric oil extractor pump as the manual ones will give you quite a workout. If you have to run the engine on the hard (I assume you are out of the water) you should provide some cooling water for it. Our raw water intake is setup with a 'T' fitting that connects to a water hose fixture on deck that a water hose can be attached to. Close the raw water intake vale, attach a water hose, turn it on and voila! The only other danger about running the engine on the hard is the cutlass bearing which normally relies upon the surrounding water for lubrication. Obviously you dont want to run the engine in gear but with our engine (1967) even in neutral the propellor spins a bit. You can spray water on the shaft/cutlass bearing from the outside if you want to protect the bearing from getting prematurely eroded.
I appreciate the replies
Well last Friday I went out and got some Castrol Syntech, going on some local opinions. After reading the responses here, I decided I would hold off and look for some SAE30. There's a commercial industrial lubricant shop I go to in Barrie, that as luck would have it, were closed on Saturday. They sell Shell products, and have always been able to supply my needs. I'll go today after work and grab some 30weight for the boat, and use the synthetic in my pick up truck. Thanks for all your advice! I'll likely be back for more, as I walk/sail down this road, with my new boat! Eric
Well last Friday I went out and got some Castrol Syntech, going on some local opinions. After reading the responses here, I decided I would hold off and look for some SAE30. There's a commercial industrial lubricant shop I go to in Barrie, that as luck would have it, were closed on Saturday. They sell Shell products, and have always been able to supply my needs. I'll go today after work and grab some 30weight for the boat, and use the synthetic in my pick up truck. Thanks for all your advice! I'll likely be back for more, as I walk/sail down this road, with my new boat! Eric
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