Atomic 4 replacement....?

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A

AJ

I'm thinking about taking out my Atomic 4 30hp. gas motor and putting a 4 stroke 9.9hp motor on a bracket on the back. The Atomic 4 is working fine but I don't like the weight or the cost of keeping it up, plus prop. drag and so on. I would also like the storage space. Question: How much would I loose in re-sale value of the boat if I did this. I had it surveyed two years ago for $9,898.00. She's in pretty good shape. Thanks for any input.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Nothing wrong with getting rid of an Atomic 4.

It's just that most folks switch to a diesel. Chances are the conversion to a diesel is fairly straight forward. If you don't need a new engine, check the ads for a used one. An outboard engine is last on the list of options. Even behind selling your boat and moving up in size.
 
Jun 16, 2005
476
- - long beach, CA
outboard

You may or may not lose on resale value, it depends on finding the right buyer, one who thinks as you do, that the sight of an outboard hung on the transom is not objectionable. You'd be better off selling the boat and getting something else, or you could do as Fred suggested, go to a diesel, but this will cost a few bucks; even used diesels are not cheap, and the cost of installation will be a few bucks, too.
 
Oct 3, 2006
1,033
Hunter 29.5 Toms River
Diesel

Diesel doesnt address ANY of his concerns... weight, cost, and prop drag. It's your boat - you probably will lose some resale value. You also have an atomic 4 to sell..or keep it and offer to install it for a fee to a buyer when you go to sell? I have an outboard..I wish I had a diesel inboard. But havent found a 6 hp 2-cylinder diesel yet!
 
T

TN

Keep the Atomic 4 running

If you get caught out in rough water, an outboard is a pain in the butt compared to an inboard. With an outboard, if your boat is pitching fore-and-aft, you will find that the prop may come out of the water as the boat pitches forward, and you may find that following swell may occasionally submerge or partially submerge the outboard. This added drama was not welcome in rough weather on our first outboard powered sailboat. Additionally, it is no fun fussing with the outboard over a solid transom, and they do usually require fussing, at least in the climate I sail in. However, the outboard is easier to service. Personally, I would continue to maintain and use the Atomic 4. Perhaps you could install a folding prop if you want to reduce prop drag.
 
T

TN

Keep the Atomic

And to the point of your question - I'm guessing you would take a $2,000 - $3,000 hit to the value from what I've seen looking at for sale ads. But, given the age of the boat, it may not make a lot of difference. Mainly, when someone comes to look at the boat and figures out that the inboard was junked and replaced with an outboard, it may make them wonder what else you did to the boat, therefore making it harder to sell, regardless of value. A Pearson 30 that had been "refitted" with an outboard was listed here (WA state) for 6+ months on Craigslist. The interior woodwork had been redone and was lovely, the upholstery was great. The boat looked awesome until you realized it had an outboard. It originally was posted for $20K, and finally stopped showing up in the ads at $8,000. All the great work the guy did was nullified by the removal of the inboard.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Good scoop TN

Us old timers who've had boats powered with all of the above mentioned power plants know the value of an inboard. Thanks for the info.
 

higgs

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Aug 24, 2005
3,736
Nassau 34 Olcott, NY
Another boat for the A4

If I were looking at two boats - same model, condition, etc, I would go with the inboard every time - no question. At the price you say your boat is worth, I would probably not consider most boats with an outoard. You complain about the upkeep costs of your A4 and I wonder what they may be to cause such concern. Spend $75 for electronic ignition and forget about points after that. The rest of the ignition only needs to be replaced every two or three years. Oil change is 3 qts. You can get most of it at your local NAPA. Compare that to the price of a new 9.9 + the bracket, plus running controls to the cockpit and you are well over $1k. That will buy an awful lot of A4 maintenance and a folding prop. Do you race? Otherwise, I would question the need for worrying about the prop on a C27. this is not a knock against the boat - I think they are great boats, but what is an extra quarter knot really going to gain you unless you race? Another answer to this problem is to mark your shaft so that the prop is lined up vertically behind the strut. That will help some. If you do race PHRF you can have your rating adjusted becasue you do not have a folding prop. Add to this the inconveniece of leaning over the transom to raise and lower the engine, the prop popping out of the water, the lost power and torque, less control with prop behind the rudder, loss of battery charging and I think you lose a lot, My opinion.
 
Jan 15, 2007
226
Tartan 34C Beacon, NY
converting the Atomic Four electronic ignition

Higgs, Someone else was talking about converting the Atomic Four to an electronic ignition. Is this difficult and what’s involved? Who has a “kit” to do this? Thanks and all the best, Robert Gainer
 
B

bob fox

atomic 4 replacement another opinion

In the past Ive owned 2 sailboats with gas inboards. But that was a long time ago and thats pretty much what was available at the time. One was a palmer and one was an atomic 4 and I considered myself lucky if either engine started when I needed it. All I had to do was get one splash of water from the bilge on the updraft carburetor of the atomic 4 and there was no chance of starting it. I managed to sail mostly without the aid of a motor. It was good experience I still do it today. A catalina 27 is light enough to be moved by an outboard. If atomic 4 were a good dependable choice they would still be using them today. They are certainly a lot cheaper than a diesel. There are dozens of pearson 30`s for sale everywhere for between 8 & 10K. This is a well built good sailer but they cant give them away because they all have atomic 4`s. It would cost more than the boat is worth to replace with a diesel. Unless your a top ignition man I would go for the outboard. Outboards are reasonably priced and dependable. And there are many catalina 27`s using them. Again this is just my opinion. Bob Fox 1975 P26w #76 whitecap Marblehead MA
 

higgs

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Aug 24, 2005
3,736
Nassau 34 Olcott, NY
Wow Bob

I too had a Palmer one lunger and then an A4. Both engines were pretty dependable. Neither evrer stranded me anywhere. I had each boat over 10 years and cannot remember ever being unable to get them started unless it was a dead battery. The A4 did not go out of service becasue it was lousy, it went out because the diesel is a better choice for a sailboat. The A4 does require regular maintenance - plugs, wires,cap and rotor should be replaced periodically. I suppose an OB would require less, but you lose so much performance.
 

CalebD

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Jun 27, 2006
1,479
Tartan 27' 1967 Nyack, NY
We have the electronic ignition upgrade kit

from MoyerMarine.com installed on our A4. It is so nice not to have to mess with points in the ignition system. This makes maintenance pretty much trouble free. Our A4 is 38 years old and I would consider it to be pretty reliable but it was also well maintained by previous owners which is key. I have not used Indigo for A4 parts and they may be fine. I have used MoyerMarine.com and they are excellent. You can call them up and guess what? You get a person on the other end, usually Don Moyer himself and his expert advice is free. The elelctronic ignition kit is $90 under the ignition section of their catalog: http://www.moyermarine.com/catalog.htm Good luck.
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
AJ I can't keep quiet.

As horrible as the ignition system is, and as bad as gasoline is (it goes boom and has half the range of diesel) check-out the crank shaft of your A4. What you are looking at is 1920's engine design. You will not see a center main bearing. The entire crankshaft is supported by only TWO MAIN BEARINGS. One at each end. And they're about as big as the cam bearing on my big block Chevy. That means the entire crank is flexing and unsupported when driving your boat. And driving a boat is the worst thing to do to any crankshaft. Only luck is keeping that crank from breaking. Maintenance has NOTHING to do with it. TRUST ME. I know first hand. Wanna hear the story? Before mine broke I got to be real good at sailing my boat into a berth. In 21 years since then, my diesel has never let me down. There! I couldn't NOT say it,,,,,,
 
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