This is an intermittant happening. Sometimes when attempting a start, the ignition key turns, the ammeter shows a near off scale to the left discharge and the engine doesn't turn over. This happens with the blower operating or not operating. There is no "heavy" electrical draw except the blower. The batterys (2) are new, and fully charged. If I wait a minute or so, the engine will crank and start right up. This happens when the engine is warmed up, and doesn't happen with a first day cold start. It doesn't happen all the time. I wonder if it is heat-related? Or maybe some corrosion in wiring? Or the starter switch? Or a flat spot on the starter armature? Or the starter? Or the starter solenoid? Or, Or, or................. I know imtermittent problems are a pain to resolve, so before I start a heavy look into this, I wanted to solicit some advice, since I have had such good advice in the past. Where should I start, before turning this over to the local boat yard? Need Help! Thanx Jim
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Paul
Cables Lugs???
I also have an Atomic 4 and recently had a problem in which I couldn't start.... turned out to be bad connections at the cable lugs for the battery ground and positive cables. The connections looked great and I initially bypassed then as the trouble based upon appearance. After lots of checking and double checking all else, I finally checked the resistance from one end of the cable to the other and found alot of resistance....where there should be essentially none. I ended up cutting the old crimp connectors off and re-crimping new lugs on. Started right up! If you do this, be sure to get the right size lug for your cable and the right lug clamping plyers to ensure a good tight crimp. Paul
I also have an Atomic 4 and recently had a problem in which I couldn't start.... turned out to be bad connections at the cable lugs for the battery ground and positive cables. The connections looked great and I initially bypassed then as the trouble based upon appearance. After lots of checking and double checking all else, I finally checked the resistance from one end of the cable to the other and found alot of resistance....where there should be essentially none. I ended up cutting the old crimp connectors off and re-crimping new lugs on. Started right up! If you do this, be sure to get the right size lug for your cable and the right lug clamping plyers to ensure a good tight crimp. Paul
I'd start with Pauls advice.
I'd start with Pauls advice before you worry about the starter (inside). Get a wire brush and buff the terminals and the connections so they are bright. Use some dielectric grease on enhance the connection too. Be sure to check out the wire from the ignition to the starter too. If this does not work, try replacing the cables/wires. Do them one at a time, so you know what the real fix was.
I'd start with Pauls advice before you worry about the starter (inside). Get a wire brush and buff the terminals and the connections so they are bright. Use some dielectric grease on enhance the connection too. Be sure to check out the wire from the ignition to the starter too. If this does not work, try replacing the cables/wires. Do them one at a time, so you know what the real fix was.
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Rob R.
Identical Problem
Jim - You described mine to a T. I just redid most of the electrical last weekend - put in a new bus bar for the electrical grounds, and grounded that to the engine. Added a battery isolator too. I thought I had a bad battery - turns out that I may have bought one I did not need. I going to see how this works - and I am also going to replace the positive cable going from the alternator to the battery switch. If all the above fails, i am going to have to pull the starter and alternator and have both rebuilt. It is the last resort, but hey, it looks like I got 23 years out of them. NOT BAD! Please let me know what you find out! I am very interested in the results. I will post my findings as well. Best Regards - Rob
Jim - You described mine to a T. I just redid most of the electrical last weekend - put in a new bus bar for the electrical grounds, and grounded that to the engine. Added a battery isolator too. I thought I had a bad battery - turns out that I may have bought one I did not need. I going to see how this works - and I am also going to replace the positive cable going from the alternator to the battery switch. If all the above fails, i am going to have to pull the starter and alternator and have both rebuilt. It is the last resort, but hey, it looks like I got 23 years out of them. NOT BAD! Please let me know what you find out! I am very interested in the results. I will post my findings as well. Best Regards - Rob
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Garry
Starting
Difficulty in hot starting is frequently caused by electrical conductors (generally the motor windings) increasing their resistance due to increased temperature. This can also happen to the coil in the starter solenoid. You should have someone else try to start the motor when hot and listen near the starter to hear if the solenoid is kicking in. It will make a distinct click. If the solenoid clicks but the starter does not turn or turns very slowly it is a problem with hot resistance in the starter. The bendix drive which pulls the pinion onto the ring gear is integral with the solenoid and there is probably an interlock that prevents the starter from spinning if the pinion is not engaged. Sometimes low voltage is just enough to fire the solenoid but the draw from the starter pulls the voltage down and the solenoid disengages. Then the process repeats over and over again. This causes the low buzzing growl you get with a low battery or really bad cables. This could also be a problem. Sometimes hot starting problems can be solved by heat shielding the starter motor. Usually a shiny metal shield between the engine and the starter will help keep the starter cool and relieve the problem although the long term solution is a starter rebuild. Good luck.
Difficulty in hot starting is frequently caused by electrical conductors (generally the motor windings) increasing their resistance due to increased temperature. This can also happen to the coil in the starter solenoid. You should have someone else try to start the motor when hot and listen near the starter to hear if the solenoid is kicking in. It will make a distinct click. If the solenoid clicks but the starter does not turn or turns very slowly it is a problem with hot resistance in the starter. The bendix drive which pulls the pinion onto the ring gear is integral with the solenoid and there is probably an interlock that prevents the starter from spinning if the pinion is not engaged. Sometimes low voltage is just enough to fire the solenoid but the draw from the starter pulls the voltage down and the solenoid disengages. Then the process repeats over and over again. This causes the low buzzing growl you get with a low battery or really bad cables. This could also be a problem. Sometimes hot starting problems can be solved by heat shielding the starter motor. Usually a shiny metal shield between the engine and the starter will help keep the starter cool and relieve the problem although the long term solution is a starter rebuild. Good luck.
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Tom s/v Gaia
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J W Huhta, Sr.
Thanx for advice(s)
To All....thanx. I will update everyone on results of my work project here. Jim
To All....thanx. I will update everyone on results of my work project here. Jim
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Paul B
Wiring
I'd suggest tracing you starter circuit carefully. I dealt with a similar problem with an Atomic 4 and found a section of cracked insulation and a badly corroded wire in a hidden section leading to the ignition switch. Sometimes the engine started fine, sometimes not. The intermittant nature of the problem gave me fits. Tracing the wire was cost effective and lead to a reasonable repair expense. Other ideas posted sound good too. Best of luck.
I'd suggest tracing you starter circuit carefully. I dealt with a similar problem with an Atomic 4 and found a section of cracked insulation and a badly corroded wire in a hidden section leading to the ignition switch. Sometimes the engine started fine, sometimes not. The intermittant nature of the problem gave me fits. Tracing the wire was cost effective and lead to a reasonable repair expense. Other ideas posted sound good too. Best of luck.
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