Okay folks. I've tried every trick I know and picked the brains of all the marina engineers and I still can not get the retaining ring off of my primary fuel filter(Yanmar 3gm30f). Using a oil filter wrench failed---to large. Lightly tapping/hitting with a screw driver to get it started failed. Can't get a large wrench in b/c of space constraits. Damn this thing is ponderous! Seriously thinking about some sort of medication to chill me out before I take another crack at it. Any advice would be appreciated. Please no jokes---I'm like a race car in the red zone right now.
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Patrick Neeley
Racor 110 Filter
Scott, I have a 30' Hunter and had the same problem. It was only after I almost destroyed the canister that I realized the bolt head at the top side of the filter is part of the equation. None of the instructions anywhere mentioned that bolt needed to be loosened before loosening the canister. Do it first and the canister will most likely unscrew by hand. Be sure to cut off the fuel with the valve at the tank first to keep from losing prime. Also fill up the can with fuel after you have put the new filter in it. Put a new "O" ring on the upper housing. Screw it back on as tight as you can by hand. Then tighten the bolt at the top. I don't know why even the guy down at Ashley Marina where I buy Yanmar parts didn't mention this top bolt, but he didn't. I now have scrapped the nice paint job on the canister and fully expect I will have to replace the whole Racor filter one day due to corrosion. Good luck with your project, oh, and don't forget to turn the fuel shut off valve back on. You might not have to bleed your fuel line at the injectors if you are lucky.
Scott, I have a 30' Hunter and had the same problem. It was only after I almost destroyed the canister that I realized the bolt head at the top side of the filter is part of the equation. None of the instructions anywhere mentioned that bolt needed to be loosened before loosening the canister. Do it first and the canister will most likely unscrew by hand. Be sure to cut off the fuel with the valve at the tank first to keep from losing prime. Also fill up the can with fuel after you have put the new filter in it. Put a new "O" ring on the upper housing. Screw it back on as tight as you can by hand. Then tighten the bolt at the top. I don't know why even the guy down at Ashley Marina where I buy Yanmar parts didn't mention this top bolt, but he didn't. I now have scrapped the nice paint job on the canister and fully expect I will have to replace the whole Racor filter one day due to corrosion. Good luck with your project, oh, and don't forget to turn the fuel shut off valve back on. You might not have to bleed your fuel line at the injectors if you are lucky.
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Patrick Neeley
Racor 110 Filter
Scott, just realized you were talking about the primary filter on the engine. I keep my Racor clean and never worry about the primary, but do keep a spare for replacement, just in case. My primary is accessible, so can get a slip joint plier with a rag to protect the ring on it. Good luck.
Scott, just realized you were talking about the primary filter on the engine. I keep my Racor clean and never worry about the primary, but do keep a spare for replacement, just in case. My primary is accessible, so can get a slip joint plier with a rag to protect the ring on it. Good luck.
Take some Prozac first.
Scott: Have you tried removing the entire unit from the engine. Then you may be able to soak it with some liquid wrench, WD-40 etc. Chill out and have a nice holiday. If all else fails you can buy a new unit for $40.
Scott: Have you tried removing the entire unit from the engine. Then you may be able to soak it with some liquid wrench, WD-40 etc. Chill out and have a nice holiday. If all else fails you can buy a new unit for $40.
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Lee Urbani
Have a beer
I agree with Steve take the whole unit off. Sometimes when two parts made out of the same metals are put together too tightly or to quickly they heat up (even a couple of degrees will do it) and "gall" together. "Galling" is actually a low grade natural way of welding. Anyone who has worked on cars or boats has had it happen to them (it's one reason that torque specs are important.) Working on a galled part is commonly known as "knuckle busting." Chill out and take the housing off and do the disassembly on a work bench. It will save you blood, sweat, and money.
I agree with Steve take the whole unit off. Sometimes when two parts made out of the same metals are put together too tightly or to quickly they heat up (even a couple of degrees will do it) and "gall" together. "Galling" is actually a low grade natural way of welding. Anyone who has worked on cars or boats has had it happen to them (it's one reason that torque specs are important.) Working on a galled part is commonly known as "knuckle busting." Chill out and take the housing off and do the disassembly on a work bench. It will save you blood, sweat, and money.
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Bryan C.
Primary -- old Fram?
I assume you are using terminology meaning the first fuel filter (from the tank), and *not* the filter mounted on the engine (usually referred to as the "secondary" or engine-mounted filter). If so, what kind of filter do you have? If you have a Racor where the filter is screwed into the unit, you might be able to drive a screwdriver thru it. But it sounds like you have some other brand. When I bought my boat 2 years ago it had the (I believe) original filter on it (a fram?) and I couldn't get it off either. I gave up and like others suggested, I just took the whole thing off and put in a new Racor (110 I think) I got at WM for about $60. Everything I read about Racors was good, and I good the type with a clear bowl so I can check for sea water (tho'I have heard that under CG regs, you are not supposed to have clear bowl if the filter is located in the engine compartment). Anyway, if you want to give it one last try, go to Home Depot and get a strap wrench. I really don't know what its called, it looks like an oil filter wrench except instead of a metal strap it has an adjustable plastic strap that you can size to whatever you are trying to turn. Good luck.
I assume you are using terminology meaning the first fuel filter (from the tank), and *not* the filter mounted on the engine (usually referred to as the "secondary" or engine-mounted filter). If so, what kind of filter do you have? If you have a Racor where the filter is screwed into the unit, you might be able to drive a screwdriver thru it. But it sounds like you have some other brand. When I bought my boat 2 years ago it had the (I believe) original filter on it (a fram?) and I couldn't get it off either. I gave up and like others suggested, I just took the whole thing off and put in a new Racor (110 I think) I got at WM for about $60. Everything I read about Racors was good, and I good the type with a clear bowl so I can check for sea water (tho'I have heard that under CG regs, you are not supposed to have clear bowl if the filter is located in the engine compartment). Anyway, if you want to give it one last try, go to Home Depot and get a strap wrench. I really don't know what its called, it looks like an oil filter wrench except instead of a metal strap it has an adjustable plastic strap that you can size to whatever you are trying to turn. Good luck.
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John Kudera
Not to be smart, but
Are you turning it the right way? You know righty tighty, lefty loosy????? Good Luck, John K ps: glad sail fits, at least you can sail!
Are you turning it the right way? You know righty tighty, lefty loosy????? Good Luck, John K ps: glad sail fits, at least you can sail!
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Don Alexander
Strap Wrench
Hi Scott, I always use a strap wrench for the filter, but if I cannot get enough purchase I use a car tyre lever and double a piece of 1/4" diameter rope over it and wrap both ends round the filter three or four times in the same direction. Pull all tight, hold the loose ends tight with one hand and apply maximum purchase on the lever with the other. It never fails. Any piece of steel bar will do as long as it is long enough to get a good purchase on with. Regards.
Hi Scott, I always use a strap wrench for the filter, but if I cannot get enough purchase I use a car tyre lever and double a piece of 1/4" diameter rope over it and wrap both ends round the filter three or four times in the same direction. Pull all tight, hold the loose ends tight with one hand and apply maximum purchase on the lever with the other. It never fails. Any piece of steel bar will do as long as it is long enough to get a good purchase on with. Regards.
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Paul Akers
Sear's Strap Wrench
Sear's has a strap wrench that they have been advertising for XMAS. It seems to fit ANY size/shape device. Might be worth a try.
Sear's has a strap wrench that they have been advertising for XMAS. It seems to fit ANY size/shape device. Might be worth a try.
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Rob
Filter Removal
Loosen Bolt on top turn off line supply,Use Screw driver and drive it through with hammer there no problem and turn to loosen
Loosen Bolt on top turn off line supply,Use Screw driver and drive it through with hammer there no problem and turn to loosen
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Porter Claytor
Cheap Strap Wrench
I have looked for a long time for a strap wrench and also just noticed that Sears has a pair for 19.95. Maybe they are worth it. Until then I have had great success using a strap (most any kind) and a pair of vice grips. You can do miracles! Porter
I have looked for a long time for a strap wrench and also just noticed that Sears has a pair for 19.95. Maybe they are worth it. Until then I have had great success using a strap (most any kind) and a pair of vice grips. You can do miracles! Porter
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Richard
Replace the whole thing
The retaining ring is tight and will require a big hit to get it started. Get the engine up to operating temp (hot) and then try to undo the ring. The alumium parts will be expanded..It's the rubber "O" ring that is stopping you As a last ditch, bypass the unit with a remote mounted replasement filter using rubber fuel hose........ Good luck
The retaining ring is tight and will require a big hit to get it started. Get the engine up to operating temp (hot) and then try to undo the ring. The alumium parts will be expanded..It's the rubber "O" ring that is stopping you As a last ditch, bypass the unit with a remote mounted replasement filter using rubber fuel hose........ Good luck
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Les Andersen
Primary Filter
Scott, A small strap wrench from Ace or some other hardware store works on my 35F. Essentially the same engine. If it hasn't been removed in a while it can get very tight. Think it cost $5. Another method is an old leather belt strap about 1/2 inch wide and 12 in or so long. The rougher the leather the better. Place it tightly around the locking ring and grab both ends with a pair of vice grips and turn like an oil filter wrench. Thats what I had to use the first time I removed the bowl on mine. Sears also sells a strap wrench that fits on a ratchet extension. The strap is adjustable from about 6 in diameter to about 2. Cost about $20. I haven/t had to use that yet but it would work. It also works great on truck oil filters. I would be very hesitant about hitting the locking ring with anything. If you bend it out of round it won't provide uniform pressure on the "O" ring inside and the fuel filter assembly will leak and have to be replaced. Also the unit is pot metal. It won't take much abuse before it breaks. I think mine was something like $100 to replace the filter unit. Two bolts and the hoses. Good Luck, Les Andersen s/v Mutual Fun
Scott, A small strap wrench from Ace or some other hardware store works on my 35F. Essentially the same engine. If it hasn't been removed in a while it can get very tight. Think it cost $5. Another method is an old leather belt strap about 1/2 inch wide and 12 in or so long. The rougher the leather the better. Place it tightly around the locking ring and grab both ends with a pair of vice grips and turn like an oil filter wrench. Thats what I had to use the first time I removed the bowl on mine. Sears also sells a strap wrench that fits on a ratchet extension. The strap is adjustable from about 6 in diameter to about 2. Cost about $20. I haven/t had to use that yet but it would work. It also works great on truck oil filters. I would be very hesitant about hitting the locking ring with anything. If you bend it out of round it won't provide uniform pressure on the "O" ring inside and the fuel filter assembly will leak and have to be replaced. Also the unit is pot metal. It won't take much abuse before it breaks. I think mine was something like $100 to replace the filter unit. Two bolts and the hoses. Good Luck, Les Andersen s/v Mutual Fun
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