I would like to add an Asymetrical Spinnaker to my sail inventory. Presently the boat is not rigged for this. It is rigged as a fractional sloop with only one halyard on a self furling Genoa. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this economically would be appreciated. Thank you, Bill
- Status
Looks Great!!
Alan, I would guess that I can affix the tack to a strap around the lower part of my jib or add a block and run from the base of the pulpit. What did you do up top? could you add some pics? Now that I have seen it done. I'm even more excited. Your Sail loooks great. Thanx, Bill
Alan, I would guess that I can affix the tack to a strap around the lower part of my jib or add a block and run from the base of the pulpit. What did you do up top? could you add some pics? Now that I have seen it done. I'm even more excited. Your Sail loooks great. Thanx, Bill
SV
I would suggest you run the tack line through a snatch block that you can clip to the 1/2 ring on the front of the anchor roller. You want to position the tack as far forward as you can get it and the anchor roller is plenty strong. You already have a spinnaker halyard sheave built into the forestay fitting on the mast. Just drop a halyard through it and cut an exit plate into the mast about 8' off the deck. Attach a snatch block on either side at the aft end of the toe rails for your spinnaker sheets. Thats it you're done.
I would suggest you run the tack line through a snatch block that you can clip to the 1/2 ring on the front of the anchor roller. You want to position the tack as far forward as you can get it and the anchor roller is plenty strong. You already have a spinnaker halyard sheave built into the forestay fitting on the mast. Just drop a halyard through it and cut an exit plate into the mast about 8' off the deck. Attach a snatch block on either side at the aft end of the toe rails for your spinnaker sheets. Thats it you're done.
Reply
I dont think another line thru the same sheve will work? I'm still clueless on what to do on top. your help is appreciated greatly Thank you! Bill
I dont think another line thru the same sheve will work? I'm still clueless on what to do on top. your help is appreciated greatly Thank you! Bill
Halyard sheave for spinnaker
SV Genoa halyard sheaves are set into the mast BELOW the headstay intersection. Spinnaker halyard sheaves are always ABOVE the headstay intersection. If you have an Isomat rig then the spinnaker sheave was built into the headstay mast fitting. There is nothing to add except the halyard and lower exit plate.
SV Genoa halyard sheaves are set into the mast BELOW the headstay intersection. Spinnaker halyard sheaves are always ABOVE the headstay intersection. If you have an Isomat rig then the spinnaker sheave was built into the headstay mast fitting. There is nothing to add except the halyard and lower exit plate.
Goes outa and Goes inta
I only have one sheeve for the Genoa and one sheeve for the Main, down below there is a sheeve that is not used and I do not remembewr what it is labeled so I'll contact you later with that info . I'll look over the mast better so I can discuss this more intellectually latter. Sorry, Night shift work second glass of RUM and all.. Thanx, Bill
I only have one sheeve for the Genoa and one sheeve for the Main, down below there is a sheeve that is not used and I do not remembewr what it is labeled so I'll contact you later with that info . I'll look over the mast better so I can discuss this more intellectually latter. Sorry, Night shift work second glass of RUM and all.. Thanx, Bill
It should be there ...
As Alan mentioned, if you have an Isomat rig, then the jib halyard box comes with both a jib halyard sheave and a spinnaker halyard sheave (with the forestay in the middle). I could be wrong, but I don't think they made jib boxes that didn't have a spinnaker sheave built in. Chris
As Alan mentioned, if you have an Isomat rig, then the jib halyard box comes with both a jib halyard sheave and a spinnaker halyard sheave (with the forestay in the middle). I could be wrong, but I don't think they made jib boxes that didn't have a spinnaker sheave built in. Chris
When you get it rigged...
Here’s an easy-to-make bowsprit, seats in the anchor locker. This will throw the spin ahead of the main, less blanketing. Tack line and 2 sheets permanently deployed for quick setup. (Note that the link here has 2 pages of pix and directions.) Typo correction: Eyelet should be 3/8 inch.
Here’s an easy-to-make bowsprit, seats in the anchor locker. This will throw the spin ahead of the main, less blanketing. Tack line and 2 sheets permanently deployed for quick setup. (Note that the link here has 2 pages of pix and directions.) Typo correction: Eyelet should be 3/8 inch.
Go Back to work
Alright Homer Simpson you need to be working and not cruising the net, HAR! When you figure this out let me know. When you coming down again. John will be down tomorrow.
Alright Homer Simpson you need to be working and not cruising the net, HAR! When you figure this out let me know. When you coming down again. John will be down tomorrow.
Flying the chute is the height of sailing
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
Flying the chute is the height of sailing
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
Flying the chute is the height of sailing
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
Flying the chute is the height of sailing
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
A good sail is one thing, but there is nothing I can think of that beats flying a chute when sailing. All that extra sail area really gets the boat moving along. Like in Alan's picture, in nearly flat water, the boat speed can be pretty good. By the way, do you have a feathering/folding prop? That will help boat speed almost as much as the chute does. After figuring out the rigging for a chute, the next challenge is actually selecting the asymetrical. The North Sails web page used to have a polar diagram with wind strength that showed various chutes plotted on it. One could see what sails are optimum based on apparent wind angle and wind speed. Knowing what conditions you could use the sail in the graph would show what sail(s) are best suited. One nice thing about a chute such as an asymetrical is there is no need for a furler luff tape so it makes sail changing a lot easier.
Asym tryout this weekend
Just picked up a new 3/4 oz. Code 2a asymmetrical from the loft. Chose this design for cruiser racing in lt/med air downwind. Will be doing trials this weekend with sailmaker on board and post results on Monday. BTW, if anyone is interested, I will probably be selling my all purpose Asym: Luff=41' 4", leech 37' 1", foot 19' 4"; beautiful red/white/blue by North and in like new condition.
Just picked up a new 3/4 oz. Code 2a asymmetrical from the loft. Chose this design for cruiser racing in lt/med air downwind. Will be doing trials this weekend with sailmaker on board and post results on Monday. BTW, if anyone is interested, I will probably be selling my all purpose Asym: Luff=41' 4", leech 37' 1", foot 19' 4"; beautiful red/white/blue by North and in like new condition.
Excellent choice!
A good shape for light/medium air. The lighter the air the higher you will want to sail to keep the boat rolling for optimum boat speed. In the puffs you can head down to bleed off speed and as the breeze lightens again you start to come back up which will maintain apparent wind speed. You're really going to love kite flyig, enjoy! ;D
A good shape for light/medium air. The lighter the air the higher you will want to sail to keep the boat rolling for optimum boat speed. In the puffs you can head down to bleed off speed and as the breeze lightens again you start to come back up which will maintain apparent wind speed. You're really going to love kite flyig, enjoy! ;D
Alan - re Masthead Chute
What are you using for the masthead chute? Asymetrical or symetrical? Weight? How long have you had it and has it worked out?
What are you using for the masthead chute? Asymetrical or symetrical? Weight? How long have you had it and has it worked out?
Spinnaker RIG
On your mast above the Jib Halyard sheeve there should be a sheeve for your Spinnaker Haylard, and then an opening in the mast for the line to come out near the bottom. If you have a spare clutch on your cabin top run spin halyard back to cockpit. For and aysemmtric that is it, other then yoursheet lines.
On your mast above the Jib Halyard sheeve there should be a sheeve for your Spinnaker Haylard, and then an opening in the mast for the line to come out near the bottom. If you have a spare clutch on your cabin top run spin halyard back to cockpit. For and aysemmtric that is it, other then yoursheet lines.
What about the EXCITING things - like....
.... when you use the masthead chute are you able to smoke the competition? How often are you able to use it? I'd think that with the better wind strength aloft that it should really help. The large part of the head area is right where the forestay chute would be getting started. Do many of your races give you any good legs to fly it? What does your crew think about flying it? Do they like it or is it a lot of work? Why did you go with a 3/4 oz vice, say, a .6 or .5? The reason I'm wondering is because of whether the rig can take it. DDW should be okay because of the backstay but do you have any limitations when falling off the wind? How is dousing it??? That's a heck of a lot more sail area. But this would be in the lighter winds so maybe that wouldn't be quite so bad. Speaking of sail area, how does it compare with the standard asy. chute, area-wise? What is your PHRF penalty for it? We need a PICTURE!!!
.... when you use the masthead chute are you able to smoke the competition? How often are you able to use it? I'd think that with the better wind strength aloft that it should really help. The large part of the head area is right where the forestay chute would be getting started. Do many of your races give you any good legs to fly it? What does your crew think about flying it? Do they like it or is it a lot of work? Why did you go with a 3/4 oz vice, say, a .6 or .5? The reason I'm wondering is because of whether the rig can take it. DDW should be okay because of the backstay but do you have any limitations when falling off the wind? How is dousing it??? That's a heck of a lot more sail area. But this would be in the lighter winds so maybe that wouldn't be quite so bad. Speaking of sail area, how does it compare with the standard asy. chute, area-wise? What is your PHRF penalty for it? We need a PICTURE!!!
John, your drool is showing! 
You sound like me when I was first thinking about doing this! *5 Total area is 1200+ sq ft. And you are dead right about grabbing the wind higher up, especially in light air where the breeze close to the water slows down. I do many distance races which allow the use of an akite. It is a wonderful sail for a long reaching leg where we can run full out way past hull speed. The crew love it because we can reel in some really fast boats that owe us a lot of time. I'm afraid I don't have any photos of us in action but I'll get them next year.
You sound like me when I was first thinking about doing this! *5 Total area is 1200+ sq ft. And you are dead right about grabbing the wind higher up, especially in light air where the breeze close to the water slows down. I do many distance races which allow the use of an akite. It is a wonderful sail for a long reaching leg where we can run full out way past hull speed. The crew love it because we can reel in some really fast boats that owe us a lot of time. I'm afraid I don't have any photos of us in action but I'll get them next year.
- Status