I am thinking of getting an ACS from Cruising Direct for my Catalina 30 Tall Rig. I have never used one before and I have a couple of questions. If anyone has experience with asymetrical cruising spinakers I would greatly appreciate it. The first question is whether to get a 3/4 oz or 1.5 oz. spinnaker. Cruising Direct says the 3/4 oz is good to 18 knots. The second question is about sheet diameter. They recommended 3/8 or they could give me 5/16" if I want. Seems kind of light weight. Third question: Do I need winches to control these sheets? I don't think the 3/8" will work with the self-tailing genoa sheet winches. Other related questions: What is the range of apparent wind angle that an ACS's be set in? How tight of a reach will they be set in? Is it necessary to run the tack line through a turning block and back to the cockpit? Where should I attach the tack line or turning block on my Catalina 30 TR. I have a double bow roller on the end of the bow pulpit.
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D
David Foster
Some answers
We have the Doyle APC, but can answer some of your questions: 2. Sheet diameter. The spinnaker does not put the stress on the sheet of a close hauled jib/genny, so your sailmaker is probably right on the sheet diameter. 3. Winch. In light on a beam reach or fuller, you may not need the winch. But in 15 knots, and or closer hauled you will want the winch. You could either chose a diameter suitable to the self-tailing winch, or use the winch without self tailing, tending the bitter end of the sheet, and making it fast on a cleat. 4. Wind angle. Ask your sailmaker. It does depend on wind speed. In light winds, our APC sails very well 60 degrees off the true wind with a lightened luff. You have to fall off as the wind picks up above around 8-10 knots. 5. You definitely want a turning block as far aft as possible to get the best set of the sail. I leave the rest for your Catalina friends. David Lady Lillie
We have the Doyle APC, but can answer some of your questions: 2. Sheet diameter. The spinnaker does not put the stress on the sheet of a close hauled jib/genny, so your sailmaker is probably right on the sheet diameter. 3. Winch. In light on a beam reach or fuller, you may not need the winch. But in 15 knots, and or closer hauled you will want the winch. You could either chose a diameter suitable to the self-tailing winch, or use the winch without self tailing, tending the bitter end of the sheet, and making it fast on a cleat. 4. Wind angle. Ask your sailmaker. It does depend on wind speed. In light winds, our APC sails very well 60 degrees off the true wind with a lightened luff. You have to fall off as the wind picks up above around 8-10 knots. 5. You definitely want a turning block as far aft as possible to get the best set of the sail. I leave the rest for your Catalina friends. David Lady Lillie
T
Trevor - SailboatOwners.com
Assymetrical spinnaker
Hi Michael - Regardless of who you get it from (I bought mine from this site, made by Doyle), you'll love having an asymmetrical spinnaker! I'd go with the 3/4 oz sail, since the best use of it is in lighter air. You want a lighter fabric, a smaller bag to stow, and you'd be hard pressed to actually blow it out. As for sheet diameter, I went with the same size sheets as my genoa sheets so they would fit in the self tailing winches. It's a huge and powerful sail, so you'll want to have the ability to use those winches! However, I also have one smaller diameter sheet for use in very light air - the regualar ones are too heavy and can cause the shape to collapse with the added weight. In those conditions you don't need to use the self tailer and can easily manage the sheets. As for the range of use, you'd be surprised at how high on the wind you can sail - you'll have fun experimenting. As for running, reaching is better, but I've often been able to run dead downwind wing-n-wing with the main and the gennaker. You will want to run the tack through a block somewhere near the bow, either on the bow roller or to a cleat. I've found that this control needs more purchase than just through a block and to a cleat. I haven't done this yet, but think it would help to run it back to the cockpit. Not necessary when you're just getting things set up, but something to consider. I hope this helps... there's a lot of information about these fun sails out there. Best of luck! Trevor
Hi Michael - Regardless of who you get it from (I bought mine from this site, made by Doyle), you'll love having an asymmetrical spinnaker! I'd go with the 3/4 oz sail, since the best use of it is in lighter air. You want a lighter fabric, a smaller bag to stow, and you'd be hard pressed to actually blow it out. As for sheet diameter, I went with the same size sheets as my genoa sheets so they would fit in the self tailing winches. It's a huge and powerful sail, so you'll want to have the ability to use those winches! However, I also have one smaller diameter sheet for use in very light air - the regualar ones are too heavy and can cause the shape to collapse with the added weight. In those conditions you don't need to use the self tailer and can easily manage the sheets. As for the range of use, you'd be surprised at how high on the wind you can sail - you'll have fun experimenting. As for running, reaching is better, but I've often been able to run dead downwind wing-n-wing with the main and the gennaker. You will want to run the tack through a block somewhere near the bow, either on the bow roller or to a cleat. I've found that this control needs more purchase than just through a block and to a cleat. I haven't done this yet, but think it would help to run it back to the cockpit. Not necessary when you're just getting things set up, but something to consider. I hope this helps... there's a lot of information about these fun sails out there. Best of luck! Trevor
V
Vic
more opinions ... try a piece of 5/16
in your winch ... may be ok ... I tie blocks to the aft cleats and run the sheet to the winch. always use the winch as you can never tell when the wind will pick up. 1.5 is great if you have crew that can handle strong wind conditions ... but you will probably hit hull speed with the 3/4 in medium wind and just with the jib in high anyway. Unless you want to surf... Vic "Seven"
in your winch ... may be ok ... I tie blocks to the aft cleats and run the sheet to the winch. always use the winch as you can never tell when the wind will pick up. 1.5 is great if you have crew that can handle strong wind conditions ... but you will probably hit hull speed with the 3/4 in medium wind and just with the jib in high anyway. Unless you want to surf... Vic "Seven"
A
Andy
Chute yeah
Get an ATN sock with your sail. I haighly recomend it-it will make using your chute much more fun and relaxing. I got my sock on this website.
Get an ATN sock with your sail. I haighly recomend it-it will make using your chute much more fun and relaxing. I got my sock on this website.
P
Paul McGhee
Check out the video at ATN
There is a nice video of a sock in action at the ATN web site. For us here in New England it's worth watching just to see someone sailing on a sunny summer day. http://www.atninc.com/sleeve.html When you get there, click the link that says "Watch videos of ATN products in Action." Paul
There is a nice video of a sock in action at the ATN web site. For us here in New England it's worth watching just to see someone sailing on a sunny summer day. http://www.atninc.com/sleeve.html When you get there, click the link that says "Watch videos of ATN products in Action." Paul
B
Bill O'Donovan
To sum up...
1. 3/4 is preferred, has to fly lightly. 2. You do not want to go to 18 knots, no need. 3. Try 3/8 in your self-tailer. If works, do it. 4. Best range is beam reach to broad. 5. Buy 2 turning blocks to put near catbirds. 6. Run the sheet back to original winches. 7. Buy 3 Clear Steps to redeploy the furler line 8. Use furler sheeves for permanent tack line. 9. I have perfected an 8-foot bowsprit to throw the spin out from main. For free pix, email me at bodonovan@vagazette.com Flying the spin is the most fun you'll have on a sailboat with your clothes on. Enjoy!
1. 3/4 is preferred, has to fly lightly. 2. You do not want to go to 18 knots, no need. 3. Try 3/8 in your self-tailer. If works, do it. 4. Best range is beam reach to broad. 5. Buy 2 turning blocks to put near catbirds. 6. Run the sheet back to original winches. 7. Buy 3 Clear Steps to redeploy the furler line 8. Use furler sheeves for permanent tack line. 9. I have perfected an 8-foot bowsprit to throw the spin out from main. For free pix, email me at bodonovan@vagazette.com Flying the spin is the most fun you'll have on a sailboat with your clothes on. Enjoy!
J
Joe
More Asym comments...
1) make sure you have a masthead crane to mount the spin halyard swivel block out front of the forestay. 2) You definitely want an adjustable tackline led back to the cockpit, or at least to the mast. Tether the tack turning block to the bowsprit or use one of your rollers. 3) See if you can get CruisingDirect to give you a turtle bag. Also, their snuffer is just as good as ATN and costs half as much. 4)The answer to the sheet problem is to splice a cover over the area to be winched for extra thickness. Racing boats that use asymetricals like Melges 24 and J 105, often have a "Y" shaped sheet. Where there is only one line connected to the clew, then splits to accommodate either side. Get snap hooks or other light shackles that can be opened with one hand for the sheets. On my boat I rigged a 4 foot pigtail to the clew, then attached the sheets to the pigtail. In light air, I often remove the lazy sheet. 5)There's lot's of info on the CruisingDirect site about how to rig and trim these sails. Read it! But realize that you might find a better way to do things for yourself. 6) The dousing sock, snuffer, sleeve or whatever you call it is nice when you're ready for the take down, but I find it inconvenient for the set. The tube wants to swing around the spreaders (unless you're on flat water), before you can get it raised. It's also difficult to set with the jib up, so you must drop the headsail before deploying the sock. Not good if you're racing. If you launch from a turtle bag, you can get the sail rigged in the bag, on deck, then go execute the set from the cockpit. Dousing the sail is much easier with the sock, so I usually use it despite the launch inconvenience. 7) Sailing it is a blast. The 3/4 oz is preferred if you only want one sail. Use the tackline to set the luff curve. Low and flat when closer to the wind, high and full when off the wind. Some sailors like to clip the tack to the forestay, the sail comes with an attachment sleeve that wraps around the furled sail.
1) make sure you have a masthead crane to mount the spin halyard swivel block out front of the forestay. 2) You definitely want an adjustable tackline led back to the cockpit, or at least to the mast. Tether the tack turning block to the bowsprit or use one of your rollers. 3) See if you can get CruisingDirect to give you a turtle bag. Also, their snuffer is just as good as ATN and costs half as much. 4)The answer to the sheet problem is to splice a cover over the area to be winched for extra thickness. Racing boats that use asymetricals like Melges 24 and J 105, often have a "Y" shaped sheet. Where there is only one line connected to the clew, then splits to accommodate either side. Get snap hooks or other light shackles that can be opened with one hand for the sheets. On my boat I rigged a 4 foot pigtail to the clew, then attached the sheets to the pigtail. In light air, I often remove the lazy sheet. 5)There's lot's of info on the CruisingDirect site about how to rig and trim these sails. Read it! But realize that you might find a better way to do things for yourself. 6) The dousing sock, snuffer, sleeve or whatever you call it is nice when you're ready for the take down, but I find it inconvenient for the set. The tube wants to swing around the spreaders (unless you're on flat water), before you can get it raised. It's also difficult to set with the jib up, so you must drop the headsail before deploying the sock. Not good if you're racing. If you launch from a turtle bag, you can get the sail rigged in the bag, on deck, then go execute the set from the cockpit. Dousing the sail is much easier with the sock, so I usually use it despite the launch inconvenience. 7) Sailing it is a blast. The 3/4 oz is preferred if you only want one sail. Use the tackline to set the luff curve. Low and flat when closer to the wind, high and full when off the wind. Some sailors like to clip the tack to the forestay, the sail comes with an attachment sleeve that wraps around the furled sail.
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