I have checked the archives, but have not found information about installing an asymetrical spinaker on my 270 (which I'm thinking of purchasing from the chandlery). Do I have to feed another halyard through the mast, or can I just use the one for the mainsail? Also, where do I attach the tack line at the bow? Do I need to buy sheets? Thanks ahead of time if somebody can help me out. I have been using the wing and wing method for sailing downwind but I'm concerned about accidental jibes (happened my last outing). Besides, I like the look of a spinnaker, even if it is a bit of a pain.
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Bought one
I have ordered one from the chandlery for my 260, I hope somebody answers this (so I don't have to figure it out). I've read all about setting the spinaker using the sock, but HOW do you set one up in the frist place.
I have ordered one from the chandlery for my 260, I hope somebody answers this (so I don't have to figure it out). I've read all about setting the spinaker using the sock, but HOW do you set one up in the frist place.
On my 320
I purchase one here from the chandlery and it is great!. I had to run a Spinnaker Halyard, which was pretty easy due to a pull string in the mast. The halyard needs to be above your Jib Halyard. For sheets, I purchased two, from layline, talked to them and they were able to confirm what the Hunter manual stated as a lenght for them. I attach the tack to a line run under the anchor roller, this allows me to adjust up and down the tack when I am flying the asymetrical. I would also look into rigging a preventer on the main, that should help with accidental jibes. Hope that helps. Regards Bruce Neon Moon
I purchase one here from the chandlery and it is great!. I had to run a Spinnaker Halyard, which was pretty easy due to a pull string in the mast. The halyard needs to be above your Jib Halyard. For sheets, I purchased two, from layline, talked to them and they were able to confirm what the Hunter manual stated as a lenght for them. I attach the tack to a line run under the anchor roller, this allows me to adjust up and down the tack when I am flying the asymetrical. I would also look into rigging a preventer on the main, that should help with accidental jibes. Hope that helps. Regards Bruce Neon Moon
Asymetrical
I fly an asymetrical on my Hunter 30. I have a separate halyard rigged outside of the mast and on a block attached to the foreward end of the mast truck. For the tack fitting, find a convenient spot at or near the bow for a block. I run a line from the tach fitting, through the block and back to the cockpit. This lets me adjust the height of the tack. You will need sheets, led to blocks as far back on the rail as possible. Always use a sock. The sock has its own line for releasing and dousing the sail, but keep track of the line because it can get away from you.
I fly an asymetrical on my Hunter 30. I have a separate halyard rigged outside of the mast and on a block attached to the foreward end of the mast truck. For the tack fitting, find a convenient spot at or near the bow for a block. I run a line from the tach fitting, through the block and back to the cockpit. This lets me adjust the height of the tack. You will need sheets, led to blocks as far back on the rail as possible. Always use a sock. The sock has its own line for releasing and dousing the sail, but keep track of the line because it can get away from you.
Here's how
This will change a bit for each boat, but it's the basic setup: Halyard; If you have a masthead halyard for the headsail you can use that, but if you have roller furling you'll really want a separate spinnaker halyard. Sheets: You do need new sheets, twice your boat length and lighter than your normal headsial sheets. Blocks: Your sheets will run from the sail aft to your stern, where they need to turn on a block and run forward to your winches. Snatch blocks work well for this. You can attach them to any sturdy, backed hardware then remove them when not flying the sail. Winches; It's nice to have spinnaker winches but not necessary. You can almost always use your primaries. That may not work as well, however, if your primaries are mounted on the coach top. Tack: the tack of the sail has to attach to something sturdy. On my boat I used the anchor fitting (roller). Some folks say youmust have a downhaul, but for regular cruisers I think that is optional. It's simpler to fly it without one. This is the basic setup - it is subject to change from model to model and there are many variations. I believe there is a detailed description of all this from a l.opein the chanldery on the main spinnaker screen.
This will change a bit for each boat, but it's the basic setup: Halyard; If you have a masthead halyard for the headsail you can use that, but if you have roller furling you'll really want a separate spinnaker halyard. Sheets: You do need new sheets, twice your boat length and lighter than your normal headsial sheets. Blocks: Your sheets will run from the sail aft to your stern, where they need to turn on a block and run forward to your winches. Snatch blocks work well for this. You can attach them to any sturdy, backed hardware then remove them when not flying the sail. Winches; It's nice to have spinnaker winches but not necessary. You can almost always use your primaries. That may not work as well, however, if your primaries are mounted on the coach top. Tack: the tack of the sail has to attach to something sturdy. On my boat I used the anchor fitting (roller). Some folks say youmust have a downhaul, but for regular cruisers I think that is optional. It's simpler to fly it without one. This is the basic setup - it is subject to change from model to model and there are many variations. I believe there is a detailed description of all this from a l.opein the chanldery on the main spinnaker screen.
Rigging an asym
You need: - Halyard that leads through a block above/outside the jib halyard and forestay. You gybe the sail around in FRONT of the forestay, and the halyard needs to hold the head of the sail clear of the jib and the forestay - A shackle or pin to hold the tack out in front of the jib's tack (and in front of the furler and bow pulpit, etc.) Many people put a block near the forestay attachment point and run a "tack line" aft. The end of the tack line has a shackle where you attach the asym's tack. The line can be adjusted from the cockpit so that the tack of the sail can be adjusted farther out in front of the boat, depending on wind conditions. - Port and starboard sheets that are about twice the length of your boat. They are attached to the clew and led outside of everything on the boat to turning blocks attached as far aft as possible. You can then lead the sheets to your winches. The turning blocks can be snatch blocks to make reeving easier, or perhaps use rachet blocks and not bother with the winch except when it's really windy. If you have lots of spare $$$ you can install dedicated spinnaker winches aft of your jib sheet winches. Many (most?) people also using a dousing sock that helps contain the spinnaker when raising and dousing it. You can also rig a collar that goes around the furled jib and that attaches to the tack line. It's purpose is to ride up and down the furler and help control the tack of the sail so that it too goes up and down as the tack line is adjusted instead of out to the side.
You need: - Halyard that leads through a block above/outside the jib halyard and forestay. You gybe the sail around in FRONT of the forestay, and the halyard needs to hold the head of the sail clear of the jib and the forestay - A shackle or pin to hold the tack out in front of the jib's tack (and in front of the furler and bow pulpit, etc.) Many people put a block near the forestay attachment point and run a "tack line" aft. The end of the tack line has a shackle where you attach the asym's tack. The line can be adjusted from the cockpit so that the tack of the sail can be adjusted farther out in front of the boat, depending on wind conditions. - Port and starboard sheets that are about twice the length of your boat. They are attached to the clew and led outside of everything on the boat to turning blocks attached as far aft as possible. You can then lead the sheets to your winches. The turning blocks can be snatch blocks to make reeving easier, or perhaps use rachet blocks and not bother with the winch except when it's really windy. If you have lots of spare $$$ you can install dedicated spinnaker winches aft of your jib sheet winches. Many (most?) people also using a dousing sock that helps contain the spinnaker when raising and dousing it. You can also rig a collar that goes around the furled jib and that attaches to the tack line. It's purpose is to ride up and down the furler and help control the tack of the sail so that it too goes up and down as the tack line is adjusted instead of out to the side.
Babble
We all have to stop talking at the same time!!
(At least we all seemed to give these poor guys the same info!)
We all have to stop talking at the same time!!
(At least we all seemed to give these poor guys the same info!)Asymetrical
I fly an asymetrical on my Hunter 30. I have a separate halyard rigged outside of the mast and on a block attached to the foreward end of the mast truck. For the tack fitting, find a convenient spot at or near the bow for a block. I run a line from the tach fitting, through the block and back to the cockpit. This lets me adjust the height of the tack. You will need sheets, led to blocks as far back on the rail as possible. Always use a sock. The sock has its own line for releasing and dousing the sail, but keep track of the line because it can get away from you.
I fly an asymetrical on my Hunter 30. I have a separate halyard rigged outside of the mast and on a block attached to the foreward end of the mast truck. For the tack fitting, find a convenient spot at or near the bow for a block. I run a line from the tach fitting, through the block and back to the cockpit. This lets me adjust the height of the tack. You will need sheets, led to blocks as far back on the rail as possible. Always use a sock. The sock has its own line for releasing and dousing the sail, but keep track of the line because it can get away from you.
wouldn't that have been humiliating
...if we'd all had completely different advice! You'd think we were in Peggie's forum! ;-)
...if we'd all had completely different advice! You'd think we were in Peggie's forum! ;-)
gyping the asymetrical
I am curious about actually tacking or gybing the AS Spinnaker. No one has commented on whether this is done one the fly or do you douse the sail go to the bow and rerig the sheets to fly on the opposite tack and then pull the sock up again. I have one that came with the boat but have not had the courage to fly it with just my wife onboard.
I am curious about actually tacking or gybing the AS Spinnaker. No one has commented on whether this is done one the fly or do you douse the sail go to the bow and rerig the sheets to fly on the opposite tack and then pull the sock up again. I have one that came with the boat but have not had the courage to fly it with just my wife onboard.
Cruising Spinnaker
Scott: I searched the archives for "asymmetrical" and also for "cruising spinnaker" and got plenty of hits. If you're looking for a sail to go directly downwind, then you need a regular spinnaker with a pole. You need to go off the wind (even slightly) with the cruising spinnaker. But these sails are a lot of fun. I also have two symmetrical spinnakers that require a pole. The advice I give is not from a real expert but just from somebody that loves sailing. I'm on my fifth sailboat. My h40 has a separate halyard that leads from the starboard side of the masthead. I have one sheet attached that will lead to a snatchblock attached near the aft end of the toe rail on either side. I rig the tack pendant directly outboard to one of the forward cleats used normally for docking. This line may require adjusting along with the sheet. I practice flying this sail while moored to retrain myself in all aspects. Of course, the wind must be from abaft the beam. The attached link has two related thumbnails at the top of the page. I have flown this sail while solo but a real helmsman who knows how to keep the sail full is much easier. I always sock then unsock when changing tack. I have tried jybing several times but don't feel comfortable at all in doing so. It's too easy to get the sail twisted around the forestay. Whenever, I come in from flying this sail, I always spread the socked sail out in the back yard to make sure that all the lines (sheets, pendant, socking line) are rigged and ready for running. If you have any questions, feel free to E-Mail me directly. If you can make your way to St. Pete Beach I'll be glad to demo. You could probably teach me a few things also. Sam
Scott: I searched the archives for "asymmetrical" and also for "cruising spinnaker" and got plenty of hits. If you're looking for a sail to go directly downwind, then you need a regular spinnaker with a pole. You need to go off the wind (even slightly) with the cruising spinnaker. But these sails are a lot of fun. I also have two symmetrical spinnakers that require a pole. The advice I give is not from a real expert but just from somebody that loves sailing. I'm on my fifth sailboat. My h40 has a separate halyard that leads from the starboard side of the masthead. I have one sheet attached that will lead to a snatchblock attached near the aft end of the toe rail on either side. I rig the tack pendant directly outboard to one of the forward cleats used normally for docking. This line may require adjusting along with the sheet. I practice flying this sail while moored to retrain myself in all aspects. Of course, the wind must be from abaft the beam. The attached link has two related thumbnails at the top of the page. I have flown this sail while solo but a real helmsman who knows how to keep the sail full is much easier. I always sock then unsock when changing tack. I have tried jybing several times but don't feel comfortable at all in doing so. It's too easy to get the sail twisted around the forestay. Whenever, I come in from flying this sail, I always spread the socked sail out in the back yard to make sure that all the lines (sheets, pendant, socking line) are rigged and ready for running. If you have any questions, feel free to E-Mail me directly. If you can make your way to St. Pete Beach I'll be glad to demo. You could probably teach me a few things also. Sam
Assymetrical
I have just purchased one also. I have done quite a lot of research in rigging this, here's what I found. I plan on using my jib halyard, because I have roller furling and the halyard is about 6" above the head of the jibsail. I will tack to the bow just forward of the roller furling tack, with a turning block and run a line back to the cockpit to adjust the luff of the spinnaker. My sheets will run to the back sternrail (w/seats) and a turning block (Shaefer 300-35) and up to the winches where I can cleat them to the two cleats already on the boat. I have attached a photo of the Hunter specs on this rig. I should know if it works in about 4 weeks.
I have just purchased one also. I have done quite a lot of research in rigging this, here's what I found. I plan on using my jib halyard, because I have roller furling and the halyard is about 6" above the head of the jibsail. I will tack to the bow just forward of the roller furling tack, with a turning block and run a line back to the cockpit to adjust the luff of the spinnaker. My sheets will run to the back sternrail (w/seats) and a turning block (Shaefer 300-35) and up to the winches where I can cleat them to the two cleats already on the boat. I have attached a photo of the Hunter specs on this rig. I should know if it works in about 4 weeks.
Gybing
To gybe, you start your turn and release tension on the sheet. The wind blows the sail's clew out in front of the boat. As you come around, you pull it in on the other side with the other sheet. If the winds are too light, you need to douse it and rehoist on the other side.
To gybe, you start your turn and release tension on the sheet. The wind blows the sail's clew out in front of the boat. As you come around, you pull it in on the other side with the other sheet. If the winds are too light, you need to douse it and rehoist on the other side.
Thanks Mucho
Got more than I bargained for here. I'm really getting my money's worth out of this site! I've printed out all the responses to formulate a plan...but I'm glad I asked this question! I'm going to have to have it done professionally. The problem is, the fellows who do the work in my area also make sails, and I'm sure to get their pitch, because they gave it to me last time I inquired. Lots more $$ than the chandlery...I like the idea that the spinakers sold in the chandlery are specific to my boat.
Got more than I bargained for here. I'm really getting my money's worth out of this site! I've printed out all the responses to formulate a plan...but I'm glad I asked this question! I'm going to have to have it done professionally. The problem is, the fellows who do the work in my area also make sails, and I'm sure to get their pitch, because they gave it to me last time I inquired. Lots more $$ than the chandlery...I like the idea that the spinakers sold in the chandlery are specific to my boat.
Listen to Doug T.
and some of the other posts in this thread. The advice that I gave entitled "Cruising Sponnaker" applies specifically to my setup aboard my h40. My spinnaker halyard block is at the same level as that of the jib halyard block. When the spinnaker is flying its head is actually below the jib halyard block, thus I cannot jibe the spinnaker forward of the forestay as you will probably do and as recommended by the instructions given in the chandlery. That's why I mainly tack with my spinnaker by socking it first, then unsocking it after I get on the new heading. You're going to love flying it! Sam
and some of the other posts in this thread. The advice that I gave entitled "Cruising Sponnaker" applies specifically to my setup aboard my h40. My spinnaker halyard block is at the same level as that of the jib halyard block. When the spinnaker is flying its head is actually below the jib halyard block, thus I cannot jibe the spinnaker forward of the forestay as you will probably do and as recommended by the instructions given in the chandlery. That's why I mainly tack with my spinnaker by socking it first, then unsocking it after I get on the new heading. You're going to love flying it! Sam
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