I own a cruising asymetric spinnaker. I am just starting to use it and struggled with the gybe. All the sheets are correctly placed around the forstay. So how do gybe correctly without the hourglass/twist issue? Thank you
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When Gybing...
Fall off, let the sheet out, the sail will go forward of the forestay. Continue turning until the sail is on the other side and pull in on the other sheet. (No sock needed to gybe.) I use the ATN "Tacker" the attach the tack to the rollerfurled headsail. IHTH Marc
Fall off, let the sheet out, the sail will go forward of the forestay. Continue turning until the sail is on the other side and pull in on the other sheet. (No sock needed to gybe.) I use the ATN "Tacker" the attach the tack to the rollerfurled headsail. IHTH Marc
Asym
I will be trying to figure this out soon myself. I have a new Doyle asym with the sock. The directions say to douse the sail before gybing, and that it is possible to gybe without dousing after some practice. Sure seems like a lot of work, but better that than tearing the sail on something! And the way I look at it, I will probably be on that point of sail for a while anyway.
I will be trying to figure this out soon myself. I have a new Doyle asym with the sock. The directions say to douse the sail before gybing, and that it is possible to gybe without dousing after some practice. Sure seems like a lot of work, but better that than tearing the sail on something! And the way I look at it, I will probably be on that point of sail for a while anyway.
Ease the sheet...
Bob, The key to getting the spinnaker to gype properly is to ease the weather sheet. I am assuming that you are not using a tacker and that the tack of the spin is free floating. When you begin your turn downwind to gybe the sail, ease the sheet to the point that the clew of the spin is well forward. By well forward, I mean almost to the headstay. As you turn dead downwind, start hauling on what will be the new weather sheet while the boat turns on to the new gybe. Don't pull so much of the sheet that the foot gets tight, simply pull the kite through the slot between the luff and the forestay. The last pull on the sheet prior to getting the sail set and drawing should be a sharp tug. This will help to "pop" the sail through the slot and fill it. This technique will invert the sail on every other gybe. One thing that helps is if the trimmer says the word "easing" until he/she is ready to gybe and then calls out "ready to go". This will help both the driver and the trimmer. A couple of pointers. Whoever is driving the boat must not turn on to the opposite gybe too quickly as the trimmer won't have time to get the spin through the slot. The helmsperson should simply drive the boat under the chute while gybing. If the trimmer feels any heavy resistance or feels the chute get stuck, DO NOT PULL THE SHEET TO FREE THE JAM. This is unless the trimmer has a visual on what the potential problem is. (Just trying to save you some money on sail repairs.) Once the boat turns on to the new gybe, the helmsperson can come up a bit to fill the sail prior to heading down again. Watch for gusts while gybing and be prepared to dump the sheet as the sail area will overpower the rudder in big air. (Read spinout, spilled drinks, etc...) I have done this hundreds of times on the boat I race on (Ultimate 20) and it rarely fails. Hope this helps. Clayton S/V Walkabout
Bob, The key to getting the spinnaker to gype properly is to ease the weather sheet. I am assuming that you are not using a tacker and that the tack of the spin is free floating. When you begin your turn downwind to gybe the sail, ease the sheet to the point that the clew of the spin is well forward. By well forward, I mean almost to the headstay. As you turn dead downwind, start hauling on what will be the new weather sheet while the boat turns on to the new gybe. Don't pull so much of the sheet that the foot gets tight, simply pull the kite through the slot between the luff and the forestay. The last pull on the sheet prior to getting the sail set and drawing should be a sharp tug. This will help to "pop" the sail through the slot and fill it. This technique will invert the sail on every other gybe. One thing that helps is if the trimmer says the word "easing" until he/she is ready to gybe and then calls out "ready to go". This will help both the driver and the trimmer. A couple of pointers. Whoever is driving the boat must not turn on to the opposite gybe too quickly as the trimmer won't have time to get the spin through the slot. The helmsperson should simply drive the boat under the chute while gybing. If the trimmer feels any heavy resistance or feels the chute get stuck, DO NOT PULL THE SHEET TO FREE THE JAM. This is unless the trimmer has a visual on what the potential problem is. (Just trying to save you some money on sail repairs.) Once the boat turns on to the new gybe, the helmsperson can come up a bit to fill the sail prior to heading down again. Watch for gusts while gybing and be prepared to dump the sheet as the sail area will overpower the rudder in big air. (Read spinout, spilled drinks, etc...) I have done this hundreds of times on the boat I race on (Ultimate 20) and it rarely fails. Hope this helps. Clayton S/V Walkabout
Around the forestay
Hi Bob - I've been practicing gybing my cruising spinnaker out in front of the forestay. My initial maneuvers resulted in that hourglass twist arount the furled jib as you mentioned. The main culprit seems to be the main. As I bore down while easing the sheet, the sail wouldn't keep flying out in front of the boat as it came across since it would get blanked by the main. My solution has been to sheet in the mainsail just before gybing the chute (if I'm really on it I've managed to coordinate the main and spinnaker gybe more or less at the same time). Something to try next time - we're all on a learning curve! Best, Trevor
Hi Bob - I've been practicing gybing my cruising spinnaker out in front of the forestay. My initial maneuvers resulted in that hourglass twist arount the furled jib as you mentioned. The main culprit seems to be the main. As I bore down while easing the sheet, the sail wouldn't keep flying out in front of the boat as it came across since it would get blanked by the main. My solution has been to sheet in the mainsail just before gybing the chute (if I'm really on it I've managed to coordinate the main and spinnaker gybe more or less at the same time). Something to try next time - we're all on a learning curve! Best, Trevor
Make sure you have long sheets
The techniques for gybing the asym chute on a racer (like the Ultimate 20) and a cruising boat are different because the objectives are different. When racing, the main goal is to keep the sail drawing as long as possible so as not to give up any power and boat speed. That's why racers gybe the asym chute inside the forestay. However, as Clayton mentioned you need at least two people, the move has to be properly coordinated and you have to watch out for gusts. On a cruising boat it's easier to either douse the sail using a sock (if you have one) or ease the sheet until the sail is streaming downwind of the forestay like a flag, then change course and pull in the opposite sheet. For this to work, each sheet needs to be at least twice the length of the boat. It sounds excessive, but remember that turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets are often mounted aft of the cockpit. Figure the run from the winches near the front of the cockpit aft to the turning blocks then forward to the clew of the sail when it's streaming stright downwind and you'll see what I mean. I hope this helps. Peter H23 "Raven"
The techniques for gybing the asym chute on a racer (like the Ultimate 20) and a cruising boat are different because the objectives are different. When racing, the main goal is to keep the sail drawing as long as possible so as not to give up any power and boat speed. That's why racers gybe the asym chute inside the forestay. However, as Clayton mentioned you need at least two people, the move has to be properly coordinated and you have to watch out for gusts. On a cruising boat it's easier to either douse the sail using a sock (if you have one) or ease the sheet until the sail is streaming downwind of the forestay like a flag, then change course and pull in the opposite sheet. For this to work, each sheet needs to be at least twice the length of the boat. It sounds excessive, but remember that turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets are often mounted aft of the cockpit. Figure the run from the winches near the front of the cockpit aft to the turning blocks then forward to the clew of the sail when it's streaming stright downwind and you'll see what I mean. I hope this helps. Peter H23 "Raven"
Clayton has it pretty much right....
...Marc suggests turning down wind and releasing the sheet. This is actually backwards. You start by easing sheet then turning down. As Clayton suggests, the helm should drive the boat under the sail and the trimmer needs big armfulls of sheet trim as the sail refills. A sprit pole makes this entire operation MUCH easier and also allows for deeper sailing angles.
...Marc suggests turning down wind and releasing the sheet. This is actually backwards. You start by easing sheet then turning down. As Clayton suggests, the helm should drive the boat under the sail and the trimmer needs big armfulls of sheet trim as the sail refills. A sprit pole makes this entire operation MUCH easier and also allows for deeper sailing angles.
Northsail Asymetrical CD-Video
I preparation of learning the ropes or lines if you will, for the setup and operation of an AS - I purchased the NS video from their website - I think its $5.00 and it goes through the step-by-step process for inside and outside jibes. The top sail guy from NS does the video - I think they did it at the same time that Cruising World wrote an article on the subject several months ago. Good luck - I am looking forward to the challenge myself. Question - do you ned to add two more winches aft of the main wicnches or do you think you can use the cabin top winches?
I preparation of learning the ropes or lines if you will, for the setup and operation of an AS - I purchased the NS video from their website - I think its $5.00 and it goes through the step-by-step process for inside and outside jibes. The top sail guy from NS does the video - I think they did it at the same time that Cruising World wrote an article on the subject several months ago. Good luck - I am looking forward to the challenge myself. Question - do you ned to add two more winches aft of the main wicnches or do you think you can use the cabin top winches?
Winches for what exactly
We fly a 900+ sq ft assym. using our main winches (same ones we use for the genoa). We raise it with the halyard with hand power when the sail is in the sock although I suppose we could use the cabin top winch for the halyard is we needed to. The sail is so light is it not hard to raise.
We fly a 900+ sq ft assym. using our main winches (same ones we use for the genoa). We raise it with the halyard with hand power when the sail is in the sock although I suppose we could use the cabin top winch for the halyard is we needed to. The sail is so light is it not hard to raise.
The only time ....
..you need two sets of winches is during a sail change. We got around this problem by adding locking cheeck blocks to the jib sheets. Once the jib sheet is locked, the winch is free for use with the spinnaker, works great at a fraction the cost of a pair of extra winches.
..you need two sets of winches is during a sail change. We got around this problem by adding locking cheeck blocks to the jib sheets. Once the jib sheet is locked, the winch is free for use with the spinnaker, works great at a fraction the cost of a pair of extra winches.
I think we need to be clear
If you have a cabin top winch to raise your sails (main or headsails) then you don't need an extra pair to hoist the spinnaker. The halyard for the headsail can be locked with a line stopper, line clutch or whatever you call them in your area and then the winch can be used for the spinnaker halyard. Nor do you need an extra pair of main winches to sail it. The main winches won't be controlling the headsail so they are used for the spinnaker.
If you have a cabin top winch to raise your sails (main or headsails) then you don't need an extra pair to hoist the spinnaker. The halyard for the headsail can be locked with a line stopper, line clutch or whatever you call them in your area and then the winch can be used for the spinnaker halyard. Nor do you need an extra pair of main winches to sail it. The main winches won't be controlling the headsail so they are used for the spinnaker.
First...
No winch is required for the spinnaker halyard. The spinnaker is hoisted from the mast and goes up quickly with no tension on the sheets. If a sock is used, even more reason for no winch (no load). Second, While the genoa sheets are on the primaries, "How do you sheet the spinnaker?". You NEED locking blocks OR a second set of winches.
No winch is required for the spinnaker halyard. The spinnaker is hoisted from the mast and goes up quickly with no tension on the sheets. If a sock is used, even more reason for no winch (no load). Second, While the genoa sheets are on the primaries, "How do you sheet the spinnaker?". You NEED locking blocks OR a second set of winches.
Locking Cheek Blocks
Hope Alan makes it back here to answer this question (and anyone else who can help). I'm also dealing with a new asymmetric, trying to plan how to use the current winches. I was intrigued by the idea of using a locking cheek block. First, I'll be using a swivel block, not a cheek block, but that shouldn't matter. The real question is whether I can use some type of lock, possibly a cam, to hold the spinnaker sheet? That would allow me to free up the winch when necessary. I haven't figured out how a ratchet block is used; is that another solution? Spinlock makes a PX Powercleat with a swivel base as possibly yet another solution. As always, appreciate the support and help. Paul
Hope Alan makes it back here to answer this question (and anyone else who can help). I'm also dealing with a new asymmetric, trying to plan how to use the current winches. I was intrigued by the idea of using a locking cheek block. First, I'll be using a swivel block, not a cheek block, but that shouldn't matter. The real question is whether I can use some type of lock, possibly a cam, to hold the spinnaker sheet? That would allow me to free up the winch when necessary. I haven't figured out how a ratchet block is used; is that another solution? Spinlock makes a PX Powercleat with a swivel base as possibly yet another solution. As always, appreciate the support and help. Paul
On our boat
we use the cleat that is normally used for the headsail sheet. A couple of wraps and it's fine... We already had the aft blocks so we didn't feel the need to change to a block with a cleat when we could use the existing main winch cleat. If you have a new boat with self-tailers then you may not have a main winch cleat.
we use the cleat that is normally used for the headsail sheet. A couple of wraps and it's fine... We already had the aft blocks so we didn't feel the need to change to a block with a cleat when we could use the existing main winch cleat. If you have a new boat with self-tailers then you may not have a main winch cleat.
cheek blocks
on Nimbus we use a 2500 square foot sail, , the other day we were using an opening cheek block, which opened of its own accord, and blew apart and wrecked the sheet You cant always get he sail to the top of the hoist without winch finish, we dont gybe it, we douse it, its all to do with money
on Nimbus we use a 2500 square foot sail, , the other day we were using an opening cheek block, which opened of its own accord, and blew apart and wrecked the sheet You cant always get he sail to the top of the hoist without winch finish, we dont gybe it, we douse it, its all to do with money
I'll try expain...
First: hoisting and doucing any kind of spinnaker is always done with either the sheets released or tack line released. As a result there should be NO LOAD on the sail. With no load, the spinnaker hoist needs no winch. Second: the locking cheek blocks are for the genoa/jib sheets not the spinn sheets. Currently all genoa sheets are fed to their winches through a cheek block. This block can be replaced with a locking cheek block, Harken, Lewmar, Schaefer whatever. Spinnaker sheets should NEVER be cleated or have stopper knots in them. Ratcheting blocks are excellent because they remove some of the loaded needed to hold the sheet. As the load increases so to the holding power of the ratchet block increases. Should something happen and the spinniaker needs to be relieved of power, dropping the sheet instantly does just that. A cleated or locked sheet is very dangerous because you may not be able to release or release in time. Last: of course, if you are willing to sail headless, then locking cheek blocks become redundant.
First: hoisting and doucing any kind of spinnaker is always done with either the sheets released or tack line released. As a result there should be NO LOAD on the sail. With no load, the spinnaker hoist needs no winch. Second: the locking cheek blocks are for the genoa/jib sheets not the spinn sheets. Currently all genoa sheets are fed to their winches through a cheek block. This block can be replaced with a locking cheek block, Harken, Lewmar, Schaefer whatever. Spinnaker sheets should NEVER be cleated or have stopper knots in them. Ratcheting blocks are excellent because they remove some of the loaded needed to hold the sheet. As the load increases so to the holding power of the ratchet block increases. Should something happen and the spinniaker needs to be relieved of power, dropping the sheet instantly does just that. A cleated or locked sheet is very dangerous because you may not be able to release or release in time. Last: of course, if you are willing to sail headless, then locking cheek blocks become redundant.
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