in light winds, 5 - 10 mph, what angle should i be able to gybe through, the other day i experimented and found that was able to gybe through 70 degrees with the A-sail. i was somewhat disappointed, hoping that it would sail more downwind. all efforts to sail closer to true downwind resulted in the sail folding up and failing to sail. i'm new to sailing and any thoughts will be appreciated. thanks doug
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Try uning the boom end
Run the sheet through a block on the boom end or use a spinnaker pole. This helps get the A-sail out of the mainsail wind shadow. A snatch block is the preferred solution but anything that will hold the sheet out and allow rapid change over during a jibe will work. Of course sailing DDW is the slowest point of sail and not as fast as running with some angle to the wind over the stern quarter. If you have to sail DDW then pole out the a-sail to the opposite side from the main and use a preventer on the boom.
Run the sheet through a block on the boom end or use a spinnaker pole. This helps get the A-sail out of the mainsail wind shadow. A snatch block is the preferred solution but anything that will hold the sheet out and allow rapid change over during a jibe will work. Of course sailing DDW is the slowest point of sail and not as fast as running with some angle to the wind over the stern quarter. If you have to sail DDW then pole out the a-sail to the opposite side from the main and use a preventer on the boom.
Downwind Sailing
I think what you are asking is how to sail directly downwind, if I understand you question. When sailing downwind with any headsail other than a true spinaker will have the same problem of the main covering the headsail. The 3 solutions to this problem are: 1. Head up so that you are not sailing directly down wind, to move the main so that it is no longer covering the headsail, which is what you ended up doing. This may actually be more effective. While increasing the distance to your destination, it will often result in an increase in speed that will more than compensate. 2. Drop the main so that it does not cover the headsail. This is effective if the headsail has more area than the main. It may also result in a shift of the center of pressure, which may make the boat easier to handle. 3. Sail wing-on-wing, with the main and headsails on opposite sides of the boat. This can be tricky (a pole can help), and also increases the risk of an accidental jibe (placing a preventor on the boom is usually a good idea when sailing downwind). Also, you might try raising the centerboard, which does little when sailing downwind. The primary job of the centerboard is to keep you from slipping to leeward, but since you want to go to leeward (downwind), why let the centerboard slow you down.
I think what you are asking is how to sail directly downwind, if I understand you question. When sailing downwind with any headsail other than a true spinaker will have the same problem of the main covering the headsail. The 3 solutions to this problem are: 1. Head up so that you are not sailing directly down wind, to move the main so that it is no longer covering the headsail, which is what you ended up doing. This may actually be more effective. While increasing the distance to your destination, it will often result in an increase in speed that will more than compensate. 2. Drop the main so that it does not cover the headsail. This is effective if the headsail has more area than the main. It may also result in a shift of the center of pressure, which may make the boat easier to handle. 3. Sail wing-on-wing, with the main and headsails on opposite sides of the boat. This can be tricky (a pole can help), and also increases the risk of an accidental jibe (placing a preventor on the boom is usually a good idea when sailing downwind). Also, you might try raising the centerboard, which does little when sailing downwind. The primary job of the centerboard is to keep you from slipping to leeward, but since you want to go to leeward (downwind), why let the centerboard slow you down.
Stock H216
Those were all good advice for sailboats in general for going downwind. Of course, if you have a stock H216, your options are more limited. The stock headsail (gib) is very small in compatison to the main, so you will always want the main up for downwind sailing. You may decide to just furl up the gib unless you can go wing on wing (main on one side, gib on the other). The stick H216 doesn't come with a spinnaker pole... I agree that it is more satisfying to sail not quite dead down wind. You go faster, and there is less chance of a gybe. You will probably also end up getting where you want to faster. For the best downwind performance, get the spinnaker package for the H216. Have fun sailing down in the warm deap South!!!!! It was actually warm enough here in Virginia to sail today, but I had too much other stuff to do.... Jeff
Those were all good advice for sailboats in general for going downwind. Of course, if you have a stock H216, your options are more limited. The stock headsail (gib) is very small in compatison to the main, so you will always want the main up for downwind sailing. You may decide to just furl up the gib unless you can go wing on wing (main on one side, gib on the other). The stick H216 doesn't come with a spinnaker pole... I agree that it is more satisfying to sail not quite dead down wind. You go faster, and there is less chance of a gybe. You will probably also end up getting where you want to faster. For the best downwind performance, get the spinnaker package for the H216. Have fun sailing down in the warm deap South!!!!! It was actually warm enough here in Virginia to sail today, but I had too much other stuff to do.... Jeff
Tacking Downwind
First, I'm assuming by A-sail that you do have the Asymmetrical spin that comes with the 216. There are all kinds of information available on the internet on using an asymmetrical A-sail but you need to realize that it is not a sail to use to go directly downwind. The design is such that the boat will get to the downwind location much faster by actually tacking down to get there. The very best way to learn to maximize your actual downwind speed is to use a GPS, setting your intended destination and then adjusting the angle of the apparent wind to maximize the VMG (Velocity Made Good) This angle will vary depending on the strength of the wind. Only in very light winds <5mph, is it usually faster to use a whisker pole and go wing on wing. Then, and only then, do you raise the keel. As you normally are actually reaching while sailing with the A-sail, you need the full keel for drive. We race mine and I never raise the keel, even in light air. When using the A-sail on a beam reach, you will find that you'll want to adjust the tack height. Adjust it so the middle of the luff curls first. If the upper part of the luff curls first, the tack is to high and must be lowered. If the lower part of the luff curls first, the tack is too low and must be raised. 18"-24" or so seems to work for me. Having said all this, just take your boat out and experiment with it. Fair winds & enjoy!
First, I'm assuming by A-sail that you do have the Asymmetrical spin that comes with the 216. There are all kinds of information available on the internet on using an asymmetrical A-sail but you need to realize that it is not a sail to use to go directly downwind. The design is such that the boat will get to the downwind location much faster by actually tacking down to get there. The very best way to learn to maximize your actual downwind speed is to use a GPS, setting your intended destination and then adjusting the angle of the apparent wind to maximize the VMG (Velocity Made Good) This angle will vary depending on the strength of the wind. Only in very light winds <5mph, is it usually faster to use a whisker pole and go wing on wing. Then, and only then, do you raise the keel. As you normally are actually reaching while sailing with the A-sail, you need the full keel for drive. We race mine and I never raise the keel, even in light air. When using the A-sail on a beam reach, you will find that you'll want to adjust the tack height. Adjust it so the middle of the luff curls first. If the upper part of the luff curls first, the tack is to high and must be lowered. If the lower part of the luff curls first, the tack is too low and must be raised. 18"-24" or so seems to work for me. Having said all this, just take your boat out and experiment with it. Fair winds & enjoy!
Particularly Good a-sail info sites?
Mr. Ernie, Do you have any one or two sites that are particularly helpful w.r.t. a-sail tips & techniques? Thanks! Randy
Mr. Ernie, Do you have any one or two sites that are particularly helpful w.r.t. a-sail tips & techniques? Thanks! Randy
doug
Everyone here seems to have given you the right advice. Most Akites are not nor were ever intended to sail deep. This is particularly true in light air. A true wind of 5 to 10mph is only 4 to 8 kts. That would put your apparent wind between 1 and 5kts. The way to deal with these ultra light conditions is to sail as close to a beam reach as possible and let the boat speed build slowly. As the boat speed builds the apparent wind will move forward and increase. This will allow you to start to sail deeper and maintain boat speed. In these conditions, sailing at 120 degrees relative to the true wind is about as good as you can hope for. It will be an enjoyable speed compared to DDW and as others have already said, you will arrive sooner.
Everyone here seems to have given you the right advice. Most Akites are not nor were ever intended to sail deep. This is particularly true in light air. A true wind of 5 to 10mph is only 4 to 8 kts. That would put your apparent wind between 1 and 5kts. The way to deal with these ultra light conditions is to sail as close to a beam reach as possible and let the boat speed build slowly. As the boat speed builds the apparent wind will move forward and increase. This will allow you to start to sail deeper and maintain boat speed. In these conditions, sailing at 120 degrees relative to the true wind is about as good as you can hope for. It will be an enjoyable speed compared to DDW and as others have already said, you will arrive sooner.
Asym sail trim sites
You might start here: http://cruisingresources.com/Downwind_Sails The Asymmetrical Trim Guide By Quantum Sail Design there is well done. Then visit Don Guillette's sail trim forum at: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/menunew.tpl?fno=501 Although he sails a Catalina 30, that forum is a good place to post this type of question. Not a bad idea to buy both his "The Sail Trim User's Guide" and his Sail Trim Chart." Although these do not go into Asyms, they will give you a clear understanding of how sails work so that you will get a good feel as to what makes the boat go that extra 1/2 knot or so faster. One more comment from me: Start out your downwind tacks sailing with an apparent wind angle of 90 degrees. You will find that wind conditions will then determine what angle will give you the most speed ie: VMG. Don't forget that when tacking downwind, you are also getting drive from the main so don't get lazy and forget to keep it drawing as well.
You might start here: http://cruisingresources.com/Downwind_Sails The Asymmetrical Trim Guide By Quantum Sail Design there is well done. Then visit Don Guillette's sail trim forum at: http://www.sailboatowners.com/forums/menunew.tpl?fno=501 Although he sails a Catalina 30, that forum is a good place to post this type of question. Not a bad idea to buy both his "The Sail Trim User's Guide" and his Sail Trim Chart." Although these do not go into Asyms, they will give you a clear understanding of how sails work so that you will get a good feel as to what makes the boat go that extra 1/2 knot or so faster. One more comment from me: Start out your downwind tacks sailing with an apparent wind angle of 90 degrees. You will find that wind conditions will then determine what angle will give you the most speed ie: VMG. Don't forget that when tacking downwind, you are also getting drive from the main so don't get lazy and forget to keep it drawing as well.
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