I looked through the archives on installing assymetrical sails, but couldn't find any specific information about installing the halyard block except that you shouldn't put it at the masthead because it is not designed to take that load. So, I know it should be above the jib head block but no where near the masthead... So, please share where you place the: 1. halyard block - cutting into the mast: doesn't that weaken it? What block assembly do you use? 2. tack block - I know it's a swivel block. OK to use the same plate on the bow used by the jib (on a furler)? 3. sheet blocks - I have stand-up fixed blocks for jib sheets (no tracks). Where should the assym sheet blocks be placed? Finally, am I allowed this many questions in one post? Rich L
Assyms for H26: Installing blocks: mast and sheets
- Thread starter Rich L
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It' simple...
This is what I did: 1. halyard block - I use the spinaker halyard. 2. tack block - I attach a rope from the same plate on the bow used by the jib and lead it in front of the pulpit and a little bit up I attach the assymetric.(and I really want to install some kind of pole to get the asymetric out a yard or so) 3. sheet blocks - I just lead them aft - outside the rig - and since I use the asymetric in fairly light winds, I skip the blocks and just fasten the active sheet in the horn cleat. 4. Get a dousing sock - it's worth every cent especially when you're out there alone. toomas
This is what I did: 1. halyard block - I use the spinaker halyard. 2. tack block - I attach a rope from the same plate on the bow used by the jib and lead it in front of the pulpit and a little bit up I attach the assymetric.(and I really want to install some kind of pole to get the asymetric out a yard or so) 3. sheet blocks - I just lead them aft - outside the rig - and since I use the asymetric in fairly light winds, I skip the blocks and just fasten the active sheet in the horn cleat. 4. Get a dousing sock - it's worth every cent especially when you're out there alone. toomas
Spinnaker gear
The reason for not mounting the spinnaker halyard much higher on the mast than the headstay is that the support from the cap shrouds ends at the hounds. If a jumper strut were added, the halyard exit could go all the way to the top. Cutting in a spinnaker halyard sheave will not weaken the mast. A snatch block mounted as far forward as possible on the deck will work just fine. If you have an anchor roller you can attach the snatch block to it and run the tack line aft to the cockpit. The sheets should be lead to blocks placed as far aft as possible and your twings can be lead through the genoa cars.
The reason for not mounting the spinnaker halyard much higher on the mast than the headstay is that the support from the cap shrouds ends at the hounds. If a jumper strut were added, the halyard exit could go all the way to the top. Cutting in a spinnaker halyard sheave will not weaken the mast. A snatch block mounted as far forward as possible on the deck will work just fine. If you have an anchor roller you can attach the snatch block to it and run the tack line aft to the cockpit. The sheets should be lead to blocks placed as far aft as possible and your twings can be lead through the genoa cars.
Thanks
I need to check the project postings for some pictures. Hopefully someone hasosted pics of such an installation. The word descriptions make sense to me, but I need to be sure. Many thanks, guys.
I need to check the project postings for some pictures. Hopefully someone hasosted pics of such an installation. The word descriptions make sense to me, but I need to be sure. Many thanks, guys.
Ashley
I agree that a dousing sock is a good idea for short handed sailing. The ATN tacker is a definite drawback because it limits the tack from flying out to weather and forward where it belongs on a run. When reaching the tack line is trimmed in which makes the tacker unnecessary. That turning block you have mounted on the stern rail appears to be well undersized. Don't forget that if the sheets are being led forward from that block, the load on the block will be nearly double the load on the sheet. You may want to check the SWL rating on the block and consider a location with a bit more holding power than the stern rail. I would suggest through bolting it to the coaming.
I agree that a dousing sock is a good idea for short handed sailing. The ATN tacker is a definite drawback because it limits the tack from flying out to weather and forward where it belongs on a run. When reaching the tack line is trimmed in which makes the tacker unnecessary. That turning block you have mounted on the stern rail appears to be well undersized. Don't forget that if the sheets are being led forward from that block, the load on the block will be nearly double the load on the sheet. You may want to check the SWL rating on the block and consider a location with a bit more holding power than the stern rail. I would suggest through bolting it to the coaming.
Asym. Kite on a H26
Hi, I rigged an Asym. Kite on my Hunter 26 about 2 years ago. 1. As for the halyard block - cutting into the mast is fine. I cut a new Halyard exit slot above the forestay about 8 inches and installed a standard harken exit sheave. You will also need to cut an exit slot about 4 to 6 feet off the deck. If you file the exit slot smooth it will not chafe the line. I also added turning blocks at the mast base and ran the Halyard to a spinlock on the port side of the cabintop. 2. tack block - I added a block on the u-bolt that the forestay attaches to. I do not have an anchor roller or I would have attached it there as that is the best spot ( unless you add a short bow sprit. I also led the tack line through a mast base turning block to the the spinlocks on the port side ( I had to add these also) 3. sheet blocks - I added Harken blocks near the base of the stern rail. Harken makes a clamp on bracket that attaches to mosty of their blocks and was very easy to add to the stern rail. I attached it as low as it would go without chafeing the sheet on the coaming. As you know the H26 does not have the stainless steel eyes on the stern rail that was later added to the H260 so this seemed the best option. I use a chute scoop (sock/snuffer) to help getting the Kite up and down and irt works like a charm. Rick
Hi, I rigged an Asym. Kite on my Hunter 26 about 2 years ago. 1. As for the halyard block - cutting into the mast is fine. I cut a new Halyard exit slot above the forestay about 8 inches and installed a standard harken exit sheave. You will also need to cut an exit slot about 4 to 6 feet off the deck. If you file the exit slot smooth it will not chafe the line. I also added turning blocks at the mast base and ran the Halyard to a spinlock on the port side of the cabintop. 2. tack block - I added a block on the u-bolt that the forestay attaches to. I do not have an anchor roller or I would have attached it there as that is the best spot ( unless you add a short bow sprit. I also led the tack line through a mast base turning block to the the spinlocks on the port side ( I had to add these also) 3. sheet blocks - I added Harken blocks near the base of the stern rail. Harken makes a clamp on bracket that attaches to mosty of their blocks and was very easy to add to the stern rail. I attached it as low as it would go without chafeing the sheet on the coaming. As you know the H26 does not have the stainless steel eyes on the stern rail that was later added to the H260 so this seemed the best option. I use a chute scoop (sock/snuffer) to help getting the Kite up and down and irt works like a charm. Rick
Good akite rig description
Rick - thanks for the description. It all made sense to me (that's saying a lot). Just a quickie. What type of block did you use on the bow for the tack? I have a Harken roller furler and I'm a little worried about chafe on it since it is sharing the same attachment point?
Rick - thanks for the description. It all made sense to me (that's saying a lot). Just a quickie. What type of block did you use on the bow for the tack? I have a Harken roller furler and I'm a little worried about chafe on it since it is sharing the same attachment point?
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