Assistance with Bow Eye Replacement. Leak prob. too

[abk]

My 1984 m25 bow eye ihas slid out and moves back and forth as it is loose. I removed the rig covered plate in the V birth and I can hardly reach the thing. I tried to reach in from below but I don't think there is access there either. Is the only way to access the bolts is to cut away the fiberglass in the vee birth? Should I stretch my arms? Should I just seal it up and forget about it? Maybe super glue and duct tape for extra measure... Someone told me here to use earplugs... (All jokes) Just like the time I was asking about air conditioning solutions and some one said use the old ice and a electric fan... Probably going to get a used hatch AC...

Any clue on re jamming the floatation back in?

Also, all the cleats are loose and I have removed them. The wood backing they put on was scrap wood from the interior when they built the boat. Any tips on what to use for new backing? It looks like the stern cleats were countersunk a bit so a socket would fit in.

I suppose after 28 years any wood would dry rot out. I am going to replace the cleats with new ones anyway. Maybe metal instead of the composite s that came with it. I can't believe there was not a hint of caulk under the cleats either.

The water problem... The boat was dry for the firt 4 years I owner her. Now, water collects in the bilge. thru the winter while she is on the hard. I thought the problem was the cockpit drain as the hose was off/ I replaced that last season and it is tight and dry back there.

The bow eye problem may have been the water entry point but I don't think so. I pumped out the boat as there may have been about 3 inches of water there. I covered the front hatch with a tarp and it is supposed to rain here tomorrow... If it stays dry I would suppose that it was from the v birth hatch but it does not seem likely as the v birth surface is dry and unstained.

I guess I will sit inside in the rain and see if I can see where it may be coming from.

Also, what is the large screw head on the starboard side of the Hull located high near the bow do? Maybe if I loosen it the whole boat will fall apart? I think it may be where the forestay is fastened to the hull.

By the way, the side stay thru points are sealed with silicone so I don't suspect the leakage is from there. The forestay seems intact too but there is no caulk around the tang where it passes thru the plate.

I may be buying 1994 Hunter 26 wb but that won't stop me from fixing this one up before it goes because it may not go... you never know...

Sorry for the long winded explanations and questions. I posted just before this on info about the mast raising kit and got good answers too!

As always, thanks in advance for your replies here as the owners have been so helpful as always.

 

[timebandit]

I cut a hole in the liner and made a cover so I can get back in .

The best fix I have heard of is a metal pipe cut in half for a backer for the bow eye.

 

[finding41]

For the topside leaks use butyl tape. (Just search it above)
I have a large flat headed bolt head there too. No idea what its for yet. I haven't looked yet though.

 

[jjsbiggs]

The screw on the right side of the bow is the forestay attach point.

 

[rgranger]

Yes!

The starboard bolt is your forestay chain plate.

You should fix the bow eye. Each time you pull the boat back onto the trailer you are exerting a tremendous amount of force on the fiberglass in the bow. You want to spread that out as much as you can.

I've made this repair before. Here is what you can do. First remove the bow eye...

I made up a 7 layer thick strip of wetted out fiberglass laid out on a piece of visqueen (the plastic sheeting used as a paint drop cloth). The resin does not stick to the visqueen so you can make it up nice on your work bench, then roll up the visqueen and take it to the front of your boat. Smash it into the vee and shape it so that it fits nicely into the groove. While the resin is still wet, put in your backing plate. The 7 layers of glass will conform to the backing plate and make a nice snug fit.

For the backing plate I used a thin 1/4" X 1" X 3" strip of HDPE. I got it from McMaster Carr but you could rip a piece from that fake wood planking they use for decks. Or you could cut up a kitchen cutting board etc.

Now that the backing plate is in place go back to the workbench and on a fresh piece of visqueen wet out another layer of fiberglass cloth. Bring that back to the bow and put it over the backing plate. Smooth out the edges of the cloth and then wait for all of the resin to harden.

Next day you go to the front of the boat and drill out the holes for the bow eye and replace it. I had to get a new bow eye because the bolts on the original were not long enough to reach through my new backing plate set up.

 

[Chris Blubaugh]

Hi - I had an '82 Mac and now an '88. anything that can leak probably will! Chain plates and cleats and eyestraps. Not to mention the bow eye. Look for water streaks on the interior for any bad leaks - I've got several on my "new" '88.

I really like the half-pipe and the layered fiberglass suggestions for backing up the bow eye. Yes, I had to cut holes in the V-berth of both of my boats....however, I'm not sure if HDPE is a good backing material or not. I would think that a good plywood coated with epoxy resin would also serve.

 

[rgranger]

....however, I'm not sure if HDPE is a good backing material or not. I would think that a good plywood coated with epoxy resin would also serve.

right

I forgot to mention large washers on the HDPE... plywood would be cheaper and would last a long time if done right.. but if it rots it would be a pain to undo.