Looking for information on what type of blocks are being used for sheets and downhaul etc. How are the blocks being attached on geona track?? on deck?? etc.. What size and mfr of blocks. Thanks, Bill
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Russ Krull
Re: Cruising Spinnaker set up on C27
Hi Bill, I use a simple setup that should work with an asymmetrical. For the tack, attach a short piece of line to the sail tack, run it through a block (mine's a Schaeffer 2.5", but any similar should work fine) shackeled to the stem through the jib tack connection point. The tack line is then figure 8'd off to one of the forward mooring cleats. For turning blocks, I use Harken 57mm Carbo Ti-lites tied off to the aft mooring cleats. To fly the chute, connect a halyard to the head, tie off the tack line as described above, run sheets from the clew to the turning blocks outboard of everything, just like you would run genoa sheets to their turning blocks. No stopper knots in the sheets so you can blow 'em in case of a broach. When you're ready to hoist, haul on the halyard and sheet and voila. If you don't have spinnaker winches, you can use your genoa sheet winches. Works well reaching or broad reaching, tough to keep air in the sail dead down wind. To douse it, blow the tack line, grab the sheet, pull in the foot, and ease the halyard while gathering the sail and stuffing it in to the cabin. Dousing works best with three or more people, but have done it double handed and could probably be done single handed. Gybe through the foretriangle, just like the genny. Most things I've read say to run the lazy sheet foward of the forestay and gybe the spinnaker ahead of the forestay, but on a Cat27 I'm not sure how you would keep the lazy sheet from falling down the stem, running under the boat and wrapping around the keel. I furl the genny before flying the chute to keep it from wrapping and to avoid tangling the sheets. The 57mm Ti-lite blocks are a little lighter duty than they should be for a C27 spinnaker, so if you plan on flying it in anything over about 12-15 knots of wind, I'd step up to a block with a higher load rating. I've only used the spinnaker with this set-up a handful of times, but it seems to be a decent cruising rig. Bottom line: three blocks, one D-shackle, two spin sheets (about 45'-50' of 3/8" line each), tack line (10' of 3/8") and the sail (assuming you don't need to run a new halyard), and no need to drill holes in the deck. Happy sailing, Russ Hollyann, #3274
Hi Bill, I use a simple setup that should work with an asymmetrical. For the tack, attach a short piece of line to the sail tack, run it through a block (mine's a Schaeffer 2.5", but any similar should work fine) shackeled to the stem through the jib tack connection point. The tack line is then figure 8'd off to one of the forward mooring cleats. For turning blocks, I use Harken 57mm Carbo Ti-lites tied off to the aft mooring cleats. To fly the chute, connect a halyard to the head, tie off the tack line as described above, run sheets from the clew to the turning blocks outboard of everything, just like you would run genoa sheets to their turning blocks. No stopper knots in the sheets so you can blow 'em in case of a broach. When you're ready to hoist, haul on the halyard and sheet and voila. If you don't have spinnaker winches, you can use your genoa sheet winches. Works well reaching or broad reaching, tough to keep air in the sail dead down wind. To douse it, blow the tack line, grab the sheet, pull in the foot, and ease the halyard while gathering the sail and stuffing it in to the cabin. Dousing works best with three or more people, but have done it double handed and could probably be done single handed. Gybe through the foretriangle, just like the genny. Most things I've read say to run the lazy sheet foward of the forestay and gybe the spinnaker ahead of the forestay, but on a Cat27 I'm not sure how you would keep the lazy sheet from falling down the stem, running under the boat and wrapping around the keel. I furl the genny before flying the chute to keep it from wrapping and to avoid tangling the sheets. The 57mm Ti-lite blocks are a little lighter duty than they should be for a C27 spinnaker, so if you plan on flying it in anything over about 12-15 knots of wind, I'd step up to a block with a higher load rating. I've only used the spinnaker with this set-up a handful of times, but it seems to be a decent cruising rig. Bottom line: three blocks, one D-shackle, two spin sheets (about 45'-50' of 3/8" line each), tack line (10' of 3/8") and the sail (assuming you don't need to run a new halyard), and no need to drill holes in the deck. Happy sailing, Russ Hollyann, #3274
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Bill D
Russ, Thanks for the reply, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. I was figuring on attaching the sheet blocks to the Aft cleats. How exactly have you attached yours? I assume you remove them when not in use? Thanks, Bill
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Russ
sheet blocks
The Harken Ti-Lite blocks have loops of line instead of shackles for attachement, the loops can be run through and looped around the mooring cleat just like the eye of a mooring line. I take them off when not being used.
The Harken Ti-Lite blocks have loops of line instead of shackles for attachement, the loops can be run through and looped around the mooring cleat just like the eye of a mooring line. I take them off when not being used.
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Bill D
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Randy
Bill--please read
Bill-- If you decide to rig an assymetrical spinnaker, please let me know how it turns out. I've thought about doing it on my 27 as well. Randy
Bill-- If you decide to rig an assymetrical spinnaker, please let me know how it turns out. I've thought about doing it on my 27 as well. Randy
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Bill D
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Randy
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