Are two headsails better than one?

Jan 25, 2017
147
Macgregor V222 Kentucky Lake
While getting organized for the sailing season I happened upon a very good condition jib (Rick Wallace Sailmaker S. Cali) still crispy and in good condition, a 110%, I think. For those who followed the restoration of S/V Sea Gypsy (our vintage V222 from the first production run), you understand we had our hands full and just finished late, late summer last year.

So, this is the season I finally have her altogether and time to tweak, organize and generally take care of things that bugged me last year. Back to the jib and my question. Currently, I rig her with the Genoa and am amazed at its ability to move her. Sometimes I don't even bother with the main if I'm out for a leisurely cruise with the kids ... great sail and well suited for the V222.

That being said, I can think of times when running a smaller headsail would be preferred, like in heavier winds, etc... I understand I can roll the Genao on the furler to reduce the size but will be the first to admit that the Genao can get tricky to manage in heavy weather. A simple, easy to manage jib might be great once in a while. So, both the Genao and the Jib I found are furling, so can I use a second swivel head at the top of the mast and keep the jib furled against the mast, then switch them at the furler? Is this even possible? Or even desirable? I think back to a trip last year when we spent five days on board and sailed every day. I would hate to think I have to make the decision on a headsail before I rigged her. I might be sorry later. And I definitely don't want to step the mast to change a headsail.

I have the front stay and a furler. I could convert the jib to hanks and run it on the front stay (not sure this is a good idea, though I've had several smaller boats that use the front stay for the jib). And unless I move or "unpin" the Genao on the furler, a jib on the front stay would hang up on the rolled Genao. Any thoughts, experience or advice would be appreciated.
 
Jan 25, 2017
147
Macgregor V222 Kentucky Lake
I thought you might weigh in Dr. Judy and thank you. I think you commented the last time I broached the subject of furlers. Mine is ancient but, it did a great job with the genao last summer. Once I got the hang of it, it was pretty simple. There is no brand printed anywhere on it and it is as simple as a furler could by I think:
Furler.jpg


SwivelHead.jpg


I'd like to use a single furler and be able to swap out headsails. It might be impractical, but I think a hoist and block would work. Though I don't know about the practicality of switching them. I have a turnbuckle from the deck to the bottom of the furler so I could "loosen" and "tighten" as needed. Then I could keep the little jib below and change it when needed. Thoughts? I always appreciate your attention to the science behind what we do. And I must admit, (with respect) this forum is full of half baked ideas that make no sense, let alone improve the performance or experience. But, I'm sure I've had a few of my own. Just seems like there should be a better way without stepping the mast anytime I want to swap the Genny for the Jib.

Obviously - this old style uses the cable as a spring of sorts. Very simple design, but very easy too.
 
Last edited:
Jun 25, 2004
1,108
Corsair F24 Mk1 003 San Francisco Bay, CA
Todd,

It looks to me like you have a fitting for a forestay in addition to the fitting for the furler to attach to the deck. If you install a fixed-in-place forestay to hold up the mast, you can change the headsail from a genoa to a jib.

I assume your genoa has a wire seized in the luff, with thimbles at both the head and the tack. You'll need a wire in the luff of the jib too.

You can't reef a genoa with this type of furler. The sail has to be all the way out or all the way rolled up. You cant use it with the sail partially rolled up.

I looked around for a drawing, and found one at http://www.bartonmarine.com/tech-info-jib-furling-fitting-instructions.asp
The following is reproduced from Barton Marine's webpate.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
The Barton furling gear is available in two sizes for use on jibs fitted to Dinghies, Catamarans and day boats. Furling drum part no 42334 for maximum sail area up to 60 sq ft (5.74 sq m) or Furling drum part no 42335 for maximum sail area up to 100 sq ft (9.29 sq m). Both sizes use Top swivel part no 42336.



The jib requires a fixed wire luff and two attachment points at the bow, one for the forestay and one for the furling drum, separated enough that they do not touch. Attach the furling drum to the attachment point and then secure the jib tack to the top plate on the furling drum, attach the head of the sail into the top swivel forks and then secure the halyard to the top swivel with a shackle. Hoist the sail and tension the luff. When the sail is being furled, the sail head will rotate and may come into contact with the forestay if too close, to prevent this from happening a round thin Perspex (or any other Non corroding material) spacer disc can be inserted between the swivel and the shackle, this will prevent the two coming into contact.




Now attach the jib sheet and wind the Furling drum by hand anticlockwise until the sail is completely furled, continue to furl until the jib sheets have wrapped around the jib twice. Now attach a 5mm line up through the hole in the top of the furling drum and tie off using a stopper knot, and then thread the rest of the line back through the stainless steel eye of the furler and back to the cleat in the cockpit. We would recommend fitting a bullseye to the deck approx 30cm aft of the furler to ensure the furling line is kept low to the deck and to ensure the line does not interfere with the jib and the correct lead is maintained to the cockpit.

Correct furling line length =

Distance between the furler and the cleat + the jib sail foot length + length of tail in the cockpit

With the line now threaded from the furler through the cleat place the remaining line on the cockpit floor. You are now ready to unfurl your jib by pulling on your sheets, as the jib unfurls your furling drum should fill with the furling line, with the jib completely unfurled the drum should be full of line. The length of the tail can now be adjusted by cutting to length. Now by pulling on the furling line the jib Luff will rotate and furl the sail. Repeat furling and unfurling the sail several times to ensure the furled jib does not come into contact with the forestay. (Increase dia of the disc if problem arises)


 
Jan 25, 2017
147
Macgregor V222 Kentucky Lake
Dr. Judy - thanks for the details. The diagram is the exact same as my set-up (though newer and probably way more expensive lol). I wish I had this last year. I figured out the system by trial and error and jamming the drum a few times. They are really much simpler than I had imagined. Though some of the new systems look way more complicated.

Yes, I indeed have a fixed forestay so I guess I'm good to go. The spacer is a nice touch to the system and I'm certain I can make something that will serve the same purpose.

The jib does have a wire in the luff so the PO obviously did just as I want to do and had the ability to switch headsails. It was just such a nice sail I could see not using it but, I love the genny too! Thanks again. The diagram really helped and confirmed what I thought I knew.

Fair winds.
Todd