This is a question for those of you that have installed new ports. Are the ones that went with the Gray/Bomar ports satisfied? Was it alot easier. I have heard about the Bronze and SS from NFM not fitting properly. Was that a real pain to get them set? And a number of you that went with NFM trail off your posts with something like "I don't know if I'd do it again," or "I'm not sure it was the best decision". Well I'm gearing up to do this project . . . incidentally, if anyone wants to know the going rate for all 11 new ports: Newfound metals, just about $2,000 for Bronze (including screens and hangers) and $2,600 for SS(also w/ screens and hangers). These prices include a little over $200 discount off the website for the SS and about $100 for the bronze. Coming from Sailnet--and already discounted as well--you're looking at about $1,716 for all the ports (Gray/Bomar). The other site "The Thrifty Mariner" is gone unfortunately. I probably would prefer to put the Bronze in if it were an easy fit, but could someone tell me a bit more, about what all is involved with installing the Bronze and SS, and if it really IS more trouble than its worth, or were you just saying that? Also, if anyone wants to buy ports within the next month, contact me at jpeskin@stanford.edu ; we might be able to get a better deal if we have a few people together. Thx Josh
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bomar ports
I replaced 6 of 8 with the Bomar ports on my 79 Hunter 30. Good news, it cured leaks all over the boat. Bad news. They almost fit. Drip holes have moved so it took some fiberglass and sawing to make them fit. I sealed with 5200. I know, pain to replace, frankley I don't plan to replace those. Next item. If you have leaks around the ports, plan on some time to let it dry out. I had 2 of them out for 2 weeks. I may get around to the other 2 someday. It was a tough job, but well worth the effort.
I replaced 6 of 8 with the Bomar ports on my 79 Hunter 30. Good news, it cured leaks all over the boat. Bad news. They almost fit. Drip holes have moved so it took some fiberglass and sawing to make them fit. I sealed with 5200. I know, pain to replace, frankley I don't plan to replace those. Next item. If you have leaks around the ports, plan on some time to let it dry out. I had 2 of them out for 2 weeks. I may get around to the other 2 someday. It was a tough job, but well worth the effort.
"I don't know if. . ."
Hi Josh, I am probably the one that writes that more than anyone. But when I sit in the salon and it is pouring outside and I have no leaks and the bronze is shining well then... When I did the NFMs there were only the 7x14s, no 7x15s. But even the top and bottom of the hole had to be shimmed. I shaped 3/4" plywood for the ends and used 1/4" shims for top and bottom. The four 5x12s in the front fit better but I still glassed in shims for a tight fit. Then there is the screw problem. The outside frame has a boss that requires a countersink. I think twelve on the 7x15s and ten on the 5x12s. But where do you drill the holes? The two sides of the cabin are not parallel. I solved this by drilling the holes larger than required but AFTER using each frame as a pattern. This is VERY important because each portlight is a little different. Now if you have lost coring in the cabinside the "wall" will compress when you clamp the portlight down with the screws. Whoops, now the screws are too long and they bottom out in the boss. You will not be able to clamp it tightly enough. So be prepared to back out the screw and cut it shorter. The front "walls" are thinner than the main salon walls by the way. I got about four different lengths of screws from Jamestown Distributor, the two sizes that NFM recommends and another order of two sizes that I do not recall. Then there is the caulking and the little hanging chain and water lying two inches up on the glass after every rain or wave and polishing and. . . . But damn they look good, especially the S/S.
Hi Josh, I am probably the one that writes that more than anyone. But when I sit in the salon and it is pouring outside and I have no leaks and the bronze is shining well then... When I did the NFMs there were only the 7x14s, no 7x15s. But even the top and bottom of the hole had to be shimmed. I shaped 3/4" plywood for the ends and used 1/4" shims for top and bottom. The four 5x12s in the front fit better but I still glassed in shims for a tight fit. Then there is the screw problem. The outside frame has a boss that requires a countersink. I think twelve on the 7x15s and ten on the 5x12s. But where do you drill the holes? The two sides of the cabin are not parallel. I solved this by drilling the holes larger than required but AFTER using each frame as a pattern. This is VERY important because each portlight is a little different. Now if you have lost coring in the cabinside the "wall" will compress when you clamp the portlight down with the screws. Whoops, now the screws are too long and they bottom out in the boss. You will not be able to clamp it tightly enough. So be prepared to back out the screw and cut it shorter. The front "walls" are thinner than the main salon walls by the way. I got about four different lengths of screws from Jamestown Distributor, the two sizes that NFM recommends and another order of two sizes that I do not recall. Then there is the caulking and the little hanging chain and water lying two inches up on the glass after every rain or wave and polishing and. . . . But damn they look good, especially the S/S.
SS Ports
We have a 1981 H-37c. We have lived aboard for the past 16 years; 13 at a slip in Long Beach, CA, and the past 3 on a mooring and at anchor here in and around Avalon Harbor on Catalina Island. As you might imagine, we have had a lot of opportunity to evaluate the changes we made to Duet over the years to make her a seaworthy home. We installed the Hood SS ports 7 years ago, and it ranks well up there as the best money we invested. These are NOT cast SS, they are welded and crafted in Taiwan. They are as close to jewelry as you will come in marine equipment. I haven't been to a boat show in years, but I believe they are original equipment on Sabre, BCC, and other high-end yachts. Last time I looked they were listed at Pompanette. The H-37c takes 11 ports (you can get by with 10, eliminating the cockpit-to-aft cabin); 6 pcs 7 x 14 and 5 pcs 5 x 12. The install is almost plug & play. You have to remove a little material here and there, but there is no new glassing to do. At the time we bought the ports, we paid $1775 for the 10 (we are now planning to do the 11th). I have a source if anyone is interested, that may be less than Pompanette, and along with what others have written on the install, a few hints on ordering the right stuff,
We have a 1981 H-37c. We have lived aboard for the past 16 years; 13 at a slip in Long Beach, CA, and the past 3 on a mooring and at anchor here in and around Avalon Harbor on Catalina Island. As you might imagine, we have had a lot of opportunity to evaluate the changes we made to Duet over the years to make her a seaworthy home. We installed the Hood SS ports 7 years ago, and it ranks well up there as the best money we invested. These are NOT cast SS, they are welded and crafted in Taiwan. They are as close to jewelry as you will come in marine equipment. I haven't been to a boat show in years, but I believe they are original equipment on Sabre, BCC, and other high-end yachts. Last time I looked they were listed at Pompanette. The H-37c takes 11 ports (you can get by with 10, eliminating the cockpit-to-aft cabin); 6 pcs 7 x 14 and 5 pcs 5 x 12. The install is almost plug & play. You have to remove a little material here and there, but there is no new glassing to do. At the time we bought the ports, we paid $1775 for the 10 (we are now planning to do the 11th). I have a source if anyone is interested, that may be less than Pompanette, and along with what others have written on the install, a few hints on ordering the right stuff,
Look at it this way.
Josh: Look at it this way. Many of the older Hunters with the plastic Gray ports still have the originals after 20+ years. You can get complete replacments in the range of $80 or so each. They have lasted this long and some of them will last much longer. There are probably better places to spend the money, especially if it only for looks. Like Ed says, it ain't no easy job.
Josh: Look at it this way. Many of the older Hunters with the plastic Gray ports still have the originals after 20+ years. You can get complete replacments in the range of $80 or so each. They have lasted this long and some of them will last much longer. There are probably better places to spend the money, especially if it only for looks. Like Ed says, it ain't no easy job.
My two cents...
I echo what's been said and can give you my input as well. I have purchased the NFM SS ports and I'm quite pleased with them. I don't have them all installed yet as I had a huge mess of rotted plywood core that I have had to replace. I guess the bottom line is it's not that they are that hard to install, they are not nearly as much fun as doing other stuff on the boat and the job goes slow so the gratification is delayed. The early NFM ports were smaller and needed more prep work to install. The 7X15's fit much better. Bottom line is they will improve the look and value of the boat, they are very well built and if you're planning on keeping the boat or doing any serious off shore cruising they really become a necessity. They make the appearance of the boat look great and not that the plastic ports are bad, they just don't have the parts replacement problems the plastic ports do. I would do the stainless over bronze just so that you don't have to polish them. I'll post a picture if I ever get them done, I've been pretty lazy lately. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop H 37C
I echo what's been said and can give you my input as well. I have purchased the NFM SS ports and I'm quite pleased with them. I don't have them all installed yet as I had a huge mess of rotted plywood core that I have had to replace. I guess the bottom line is it's not that they are that hard to install, they are not nearly as much fun as doing other stuff on the boat and the job goes slow so the gratification is delayed. The early NFM ports were smaller and needed more prep work to install. The 7X15's fit much better. Bottom line is they will improve the look and value of the boat, they are very well built and if you're planning on keeping the boat or doing any serious off shore cruising they really become a necessity. They make the appearance of the boat look great and not that the plastic ports are bad, they just don't have the parts replacement problems the plastic ports do. I would do the stainless over bronze just so that you don't have to polish them. I'll post a picture if I ever get them done, I've been pretty lazy lately. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop H 37C
Dave, interested in your source
Dave, I am definitely interested in your source, you could post it, or email me at jppeskin@stanford.edu And thanks to everyone for the tips.
Dave, I am definitely interested in your source, you could post it, or email me at jppeskin@stanford.edu And thanks to everyone for the tips.
Source....
Josh... My source is Jim Lamb at MMI Marine Equipment in Newport Beach CA. Call him at (800)747-3014. Tell him I sent you, as he is a long-time friend, and I have gotten quite a bit of stuff from him over the years. If you get to where you are going to order them, e-mail me about ordering specs for the H-37c; I'll save you making the same mistakes I made. These are NOT cast, so you can specify the spigot angle, eliminating the 2" of water collecting in the port after every rainstorm. The spigot projection can also be specified, making allowance for the difference in cabintop wall thickness. Good luck, and let me know if I can help Dave Simpson AboardDuet@catalinas.net
Josh... My source is Jim Lamb at MMI Marine Equipment in Newport Beach CA. Call him at (800)747-3014. Tell him I sent you, as he is a long-time friend, and I have gotten quite a bit of stuff from him over the years. If you get to where you are going to order them, e-mail me about ordering specs for the H-37c; I'll save you making the same mistakes I made. These are NOT cast, so you can specify the spigot angle, eliminating the 2" of water collecting in the port after every rainstorm. The spigot projection can also be specified, making allowance for the difference in cabintop wall thickness. Good luck, and let me know if I can help Dave Simpson AboardDuet@catalinas.net
Attachments
plastic
A lot of good ideas and experience in here but I just (six months ago) replaced all the port's on our H33. I agree with Steve Dion, my old ones lasted 20+ years with just a few small problems. I used the Gray/Bomar ports, they fit in nearly perfectly, zero glass work and had enough money left over from the savings to hit Vaca Key for a few weeks on the boat. Once they were out and the bleeding from my hands was under control the new ones fit in great. I used Sikaflex 291 to seal the new one's in. I figured that by using 5200 than I'd be truly screwed if I had a leak. Besides, the Sikaflex has none, zero, 0, shrinkage once it cures, 5200 doesn't. So far this summer we've had some unbelieveable rains down here in SW Fla, not a single leak. I am very pleased with the plastic ones, especially pleased with the money I saved. Though I have to admit the SS ones do look great.....
A lot of good ideas and experience in here but I just (six months ago) replaced all the port's on our H33. I agree with Steve Dion, my old ones lasted 20+ years with just a few small problems. I used the Gray/Bomar ports, they fit in nearly perfectly, zero glass work and had enough money left over from the savings to hit Vaca Key for a few weeks on the boat. Once they were out and the bleeding from my hands was under control the new ones fit in great. I used Sikaflex 291 to seal the new one's in. I figured that by using 5200 than I'd be truly screwed if I had a leak. Besides, the Sikaflex has none, zero, 0, shrinkage once it cures, 5200 doesn't. So far this summer we've had some unbelieveable rains down here in SW Fla, not a single leak. I am very pleased with the plastic ones, especially pleased with the money I saved. Though I have to admit the SS ones do look great.....
New ports
I went with the NFM SS ports last year and very pleased with the results, a lot of work but worth it. The hardest part was removing the old, 5200 bedded, plastic ports without doing damage to the fiberglass. Used plenty of expensive 'anti bond' spray to soften the 5200, works but I still had to cut up most of the plastic ports to get them out, (recently read that turpentine softens 5200 but have not tried that yet). At least I wound up with a nice supply of self tapping screws from the old ports. If you are lucky enough to have dry plywood core then fit the new ports, drill the holes and seal any exposed wood core with epoxy. If not then dig out the rot, dry the wood then fill with epoxy. All of the above will be required no matter what ports you put in, plastic or metal. A couple of hints for the NFM ports; use 1-1/4" oval head screws for the large 7x15 ports and 1" oval head on the 5x12's up forward, to fill the old rain drain cutouts clamp a couple of plastic strips on the inside and outside of the cutout to make a dam for the epoxy, use a 1-1/2" sanding drum to shape the cutout for the drains, and keep the frames matched to the ports for a good fit. Hope that helps.
I went with the NFM SS ports last year and very pleased with the results, a lot of work but worth it. The hardest part was removing the old, 5200 bedded, plastic ports without doing damage to the fiberglass. Used plenty of expensive 'anti bond' spray to soften the 5200, works but I still had to cut up most of the plastic ports to get them out, (recently read that turpentine softens 5200 but have not tried that yet). At least I wound up with a nice supply of self tapping screws from the old ports. If you are lucky enough to have dry plywood core then fit the new ports, drill the holes and seal any exposed wood core with epoxy. If not then dig out the rot, dry the wood then fill with epoxy. All of the above will be required no matter what ports you put in, plastic or metal. A couple of hints for the NFM ports; use 1-1/4" oval head screws for the large 7x15 ports and 1" oval head on the 5x12's up forward, to fill the old rain drain cutouts clamp a couple of plastic strips on the inside and outside of the cutout to make a dam for the epoxy, use a 1-1/2" sanding drum to shape the cutout for the drains, and keep the frames matched to the ports for a good fit. Hope that helps.
bronze ports
My advice to all who contiplate port changes is do notbuy NFM ports. I have fought incessant leaks from day one and am seriously concidering going to Beckson raindrains. Just my sour assed oppion guys
My advice to all who contiplate port changes is do notbuy NFM ports. I have fought incessant leaks from day one and am seriously concidering going to Beckson raindrains. Just my sour assed oppion guys
Went Plastic Because ....
1. At slightly over $50 ea (with discount) from Doc Freemans in Seattle they were cheap (my boat uses Beckson rain-drain), 2. The boat looks original, 3. One day job to remove old ones and install new ones, and, 4. There was not enough time as I needed to go on vacation. Advantage is they were a direct drop-in with no adjustments or rework. I've written a post a few years back on the little details with regard to installation to prevent leaks but basically it requires a 45-degree champfer around the outside of the opening to maximize the sealant "gasket" effect. Apply sealant ONLY on the outside of the coachroof, NOT on the inside. The inside does absolutely nothing except make it a lot more difficult to replace the port. By the way, New Found Metals is about an hours drive from here in Port Townsend. Dave Simpson's picture of his 37c looks really great!
1. At slightly over $50 ea (with discount) from Doc Freemans in Seattle they were cheap (my boat uses Beckson rain-drain), 2. The boat looks original, 3. One day job to remove old ones and install new ones, and, 4. There was not enough time as I needed to go on vacation. Advantage is they were a direct drop-in with no adjustments or rework. I've written a post a few years back on the little details with regard to installation to prevent leaks but basically it requires a 45-degree champfer around the outside of the opening to maximize the sealant "gasket" effect. Apply sealant ONLY on the outside of the coachroof, NOT on the inside. The inside does absolutely nothing except make it a lot more difficult to replace the port. By the way, New Found Metals is about an hours drive from here in Port Townsend. Dave Simpson's picture of his 37c looks really great!
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