Arch-mounting a Wind Generator

[Al - s/v Persephone]

I'm considering adding an Air Breeze wind generator to my 05H36.

In looking at my arch, it appears that fastening a schedule 40 pipe via 2 or 3 ties to the aftermost vertical tubing of the arch on my port side (and running the pipe-enclosed wire out the bottom and through the cockpit coaming near the shorepower connector) would be a good concept.

However, I'm wondering if I really need to buy a general purpose wind tower kit (using a 9ft length of schedule 40 pipe plus struts) designed for deck-mounted installations on arch-less boats.

In particular, I'm wondering whether a 13lb generator (plus wind loading) really requires a pair of ugly struts, or if a schedule 40 pipe would be sufficiently self-supporting with only the lowest 2 ft securely supported. (The pipe only has to stick up above the bimini by more than 24 inches to clear the blades.)

If not (though I have a neighbor with a non-Hunter that has a self-supporting stern tower/pipe for an Air-X with no struts), would a single (fore-and-aft oriented) strut to the angled portion of that arch tubing (like my biminii has) work, with no athwartship strut?

I'd obviously like to know if anyone has tried just such an installation, but photos of any wind generator installations making effective use of a Hunter arch would be most welcome.

Fair winds,
Al

 

[Ron McCoy]

Al,
You've probably got too many variables to consider in my opinion. While the attachment of the schedule 40 pipe to the arch may be appealing, have you considered the noise and vibration that it may cause? The wind generator will set up a vibration on the pipe which will be transmitted to the arch and to the boat itself. A stand-alone pipe offers more isolation of this vibration (and noise transmitted down below). A number of manufactures sell just the struts and deck fittings you'd need allowing you to buy locally and save shipping costs on the 40 pipe. The pole's deck fitting also helps isolate the vibration/noise that while it may be more expense upfront, you might be better served long-term. FWIW, I've never seen a wind generator attached to the Hunter arch, so all these other sailors with windgens must have come to the same conclusion - use a stand-alone pole.

 

[Al - s/v Persephone]

Thanks, Ron -

I must admit I hadn't thought about vibration being the reason for not seeing or hearing about arch-mounted wind generators on Hunters. Makes sense.

However, I now have the problem of finding where to mount the base of a tower kit.

Moreover, the kits I see have vibration isolation on the pole-to-deck fitting, but the struts are just clamped to the pole. That means I can't even fasten their other ends to the arch without creating a transmission path..

From an apparent advantage in wind generator mounting, my arch now appears to be a big impediment.

Maybe I'll have to pursue fabrication of a vibration-isolating fitting to use between the base of the pole and the lower portion of the arch.

Hotwire's vibration isolator for their KISS generator (not as quiet as the AirBreeze, supposedly - though quieter than the older Air-Xs) might allow me to use my original scheme:

http://svhotwire.com/info/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/isolator-w-airx-002.jpg

Otherwise, it looks like I'd be stuck mounting a tower base fitting on the vertical surface of my transom and using it in the "folded-down" position to raise the pole.

Any thoughts?

Have you mounted an Air Breeze or Air-X (same 13lb weight, but much noisier) on your 386?

Fair winds,
Al

 

[chuckwayne]

Hi Al,
Haven't done a wind generator (yet) but I agree on the concern about vibration-before I got rid of the stock UK furling main I could get the whole arch to resonate. I'm in the middle of a radar update-I'm installing a BR-24- and I've got a highly recommended fabricator making me a stern pole for it. I'm mounting the pole on the flat surface just outboard of the stbd stern locker in the sugar scoop. It's a 4" wide area with access under it for a backing plate and the pole will line up with the curved pushpit rails that make up the back of the seat for 2 clamping points. We will probably add a diagonal brace to the deck/seatback area for additional support. You could do the same thing with your generator and add isolators as needed. email me and I'll give you the details.
Chuck

 

[Ron McCoy]

Al, Chuck is right. A couple of points to keep in mind on his input. The side struts for the sch 40 pole should have rubber isolation bushings too. They normally come with the kits and are at the deck-end fitting. In addition to the pole-to-deck fitting which also an isolation fitting, the wind generator would be quite isolated from the rest of the hull when installed this way. You could also use the aft stern seat rails to clamp on the sch 40 pole if necessary. I don't think they'd transmit much as they're attached at multiple points on the stern.
I agree with your comments about the arch. When I bought my H386, me and every other Hunter owner was raving about them. Last year when I had a full enclosure built, the installer could not find a way to "rain-proof" the cockpit. As the traveller on top must move laterally, it's almost impossible to keep the rain out. We've since improvised a solution with zippers on either side of the block, velco to keep it closed and a covering for the mainsheet block that sits over the traveller block. What a mess, but it seems to work 95% of the time. If I ever sell and buy another sailboat, it will be one without an arch. They're nice on warm, sunny days and keep the cockpit open, but for a serious cruiser, I'd rather have a coachtop traveller and backstay rigged boat. That way, I can build a more foul weather going boat.