Aqua signal series 25 Deck/Steaming light

[Scott T-Bird]

The is definitely something odd about the wiring. There appears to be 3 posts with a small slot head screw, and I suspect those are positive posts. There is just one post with Phillips head and I suspect that is common neg. Green, white and black leads of similar gauge appear to protrude from the mast. The black goes to the Phillips head. White goes directly to a post, but I don't know where the negative for that post is. The bulb clearly has 2 leads of similar gauge and color (purple?), one is a slotted head post (sideways in the photo) and the other is a soldered connection (it seams). To me, this looks like it might be wired backwards. I would guess that the slotted head should be pos and the soldered lead might be neg which should lead to the Phillips head. Then there is a green which leads to a post, which in turn is only connected to the bulb. If the green was common ground (neg) wouldn't it have 2 leads to neg posts for separate bulbs? I don't see that.

I'm also wondering why there seems to be 3 posts with slotted head screws ... but I still think they are intended for pos connections.

 

[Ron20324]

He already said the green is on the neg buss at the panel. I'd go with the theory that maybe a connector plug/socket on the deck is miss-wired, or someone swapped colors in part of the wire run, maybe from also having the thought of ground is black. It does look like it should work as it is wired, and as the panel is wired. That only leaves something in-between as kaput.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Oh ... nevermind me...

The light went off in my head. The 2 copper colored posts are the pos and neg posts of the steaming light!

Still, if the lights don't work as intended, the common neg is mixed up. There is probably a pos connected to the green somewhere along the line. I could seen it happening. Green isn't negative in a DC system, only on this light connection.

 

[Brian D]

Here, try this... Like I said in the very first post.

 

[Db421]

Thanks!

Thank you everybody for the great responses.

I think between all of them, I can piece it together. the confusing part is that the three wires coming out of the mast (flux capacitor like) were my doing and therefore, suspect. I used the existing wiring and used green for common ground. i will re-connect the wires such that black is common ground. then, i think, the green and white will be the positives as many of you were saying. I think the fixture itself is wired correctly because i have no reason to believe that anyone messed with it. As with many of my projects, when I can't get something to work as planned it is because of some simple mistake. I probably had a loose connection somewhere when I was mocking up the system in the driveway. If I can get out of work before dark tonight, I'll check everything over and try again.

Thanks again for all of your help. Just another reason why this site is so great!

 

[LloydB]

A suggestion for those using three conductor cables for their DC lighting (extension cords). Stay with black as battery negative and use white and green for positive conductors as Db421 has chosen, and also get a roll of red electrical tape and wrap that last 3/4" of each conductor so that you'll remember it's a positive DC. Get a roll of white tape and a permanent marker and label the cable for it's use. IF you are not using the the green conductor for DC cut it off or label it as DO NOT USE so it doesn't get mistakenly connected as an AC safety conductor.

 

[Brian D]

In lieu of electrical tape, I would recommend heat shrink. Heat shrink will not come off after time. Electrical tape may come off. Not to say that electrical tape is a bad idea. It is better to have some kind of ID than none at all.

Good point LloydB.

 

[slaume]

A volt meter is your best friend.