Appreciate information

[Barry Shapiro]

I have a 1984 Catalina 30 named Imagine and have essentially re fitted the entire boat down to a few smaller details.1. I have stripped and sanded off many coats of old varnish on my hatch covers. I'm ready to re-varnish. I'm not sure if they are teak and if so if they should be vanished. I would like to do it properly and would appreciate any knowledge coming my way.2. The sliding hatch cover at the companion way is very difficult to move within 12" of closing. It appears that I will need to drill out the wood plugs to get to the screws to remove the wood slide channels at each side to remove the hatch cover to hopefully make it move smoothly. Again, I would appreciate any help that anyone has to offer.Thank you,Barry

 

[Steve21886]

Prefer narnish

I just re-varnished the hatch boards on my 85 catalina 30. they are teak, and I'm very happy with the result. I have used Cetol on a prior boat. Varnish looks better and is worth the effort in my opinion.

 

[Bob]

Tough Choice!

Barry.As you experienced, varnish will eventually require removal and it can be tenacious and a timely task. If you do not plan on covering the hatch entrance area (sunbrella cover) to protect varnished wood, then simply using the two step teak cleaning and oiling process several times a year will do just fine and provide a better longterm solution. For interior appearance, teak in the interior portion is a consideration since that will last forever! Varnished teak exposed to sunlight no matter how many coats will in time discolor and require removal. Teak will be better protected if cleaned and oiled. I prefer the oil over the varnish myself having the experience on several boats of scaping, sanding and oiling teak that prior owners preferred to varnish. Those boards that retain the covers will have to be removed and the plugs once out provide access to the screws and re-plugging. No big trick to removing plugs; just take your time with the right sized (small) drill bit and use a small exacto knife to gently cut out the plug where necessary for a cleaner look. Use a good wood glue and varying grades of sandpaper when replacing and fairing the plug.Bob'88 Catalina 30 Georgia

 

[captn ron]

i use a different approach

Barry Shapiro, All of the responses you got were good sound advice. Remember there are always choices and they can also be equally as good.My take on teak whether above or below is simple.1. why take your wood down by sanding? your just left with less wood. I bought my 1980 boat in 1990. I cleaned, sanded, and oiled my wood.Oiling wood is like instant sex. The oil runs smooth and the wood shines. Over time I found that dirt gets in the oil and the darker it got. I needed to change my approach.I purchased "SNAPPY TEAK". A 2 part liquid stripper & cleaner. This stuff is the best.The 1st part is easy. The second part is an acid. so read the directions. After a couple of pieces you'll be an expert.The best part is that everything rinses with water. Your wood will look like sandlewood when dry. Use a real fine sandpaper to knock down the hairs (depending on the condition of the wood. Weathered wood is tough as you Will need to take it down to smooth.) Any varnish will work. I prefer to use a non-colored varnish. Your wood will look so good. Always use a clean rag soaked with thinner and wipe the wood right before you lay strokes. This will help it run and not pick up what you put down on the previous stroke. 3-4 coats and your wood should be good for a year. Then just lightly sand and varnish the same way on recoates.hope this helps,capt'n ron