Applied service to dock lines
- Thread starter Ross
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Seine twine comes in many sizes. generally I keep #15 # 18 and # 36 on hand That way if I need some really small stuff I can take a Length of #15 and open it up and pull one strand and use that for whipping small lines. One strand of #36 is a bit more than twice as big as one strand of #15 and is exactly twice the size if one strand of #18. Always heat wax and pine tar in a water bath and NEVER over a direct flame.
edit to add link: http://www.sterlingnets.com/twine.html
edit to add link: http://www.sterlingnets.com/twine.html
Ross has been reported by local Harve de Grace officials of also adding in "eye of newt and toe of frog" ... but also reportedly he only does this during the new phase of the moon. Local black cats have mysteriously disappeared.bees wax and pine tar must have smelled wonderful in the kitchen
Ross
I 'worm' before I parcel .... makes the parceling more 'even' the finished piece more round making it even less prone to chafe. Such served (and wormed) lines last a lot longer than any other method of chafe protection. My slip is exposed to the open bay and subject to the boisterous NW'ers. Nuthin' works better'n parceled dock lines.
regards
RichH
RichH, That hard line seems to be more resistant to chafe than the laid line. I will report on the difference between wormed and served and just served. My stern lines are wormed, parceled with friction tape and served. Under stress they tend the bleed the tar out of the parceling. That may lubricate them a bit but it is messy. Check the phase of the moon and the location of your cat.
Tubular webbing from a rock climbing store...
$0.25-$0.50 per foot, moments to install (melt a small hole with a nail at one end to insert a cable tie) and lasts 10 years easy. Since it slides, there is no wear, only the sun, eventually.
Sometimes the marine stores have it for 3-10x the price. Silly.
$0.25-$0.50 per foot, moments to install (melt a small hole with a nail at one end to insert a cable tie) and lasts 10 years easy. Since it slides, there is no wear, only the sun, eventually.
Sometimes the marine stores have it for 3-10x the price. Silly.
Re: Tubular webbing from a rock climbing store...
#36 nylon twine about a penny per foot. one size fits all. more than one useful purpose. No contest. 5/8 diameter line -circumference =2 inches= six turns per foot of twine times .085 inch diameter= 23 feet of twine per foot of service. Repairability absolute.
#36 nylon twine about a penny per foot. one size fits all. more than one useful purpose. No contest. 5/8 diameter line -circumference =2 inches= six turns per foot of twine times .085 inch diameter= 23 feet of twine per foot of service. Repairability absolute.
Built it. The handle is oak but if I make another I will likely use locust or hickory.
The tubular webbing is definitely more versatile, since it can be easily repositioned.
I wind the twine all the way to the end and cut it leaving about a twelve inch tail. Then I loosen the last six or eight turns and bring the tailunder those turns and starting the inside turn pull the turns very tight with a spike ( I use an awl) one turn at a time until I reach the outer end. Next I tie a marline spike hitch on my spike with the tail that is under those turns I pulled tight and heave the end tight under the turns.
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Cafe protection seizing tool
Ross, all was right with the world before I checked your posting before going to bed. Instead I was on the internet 2 1/2 more hours learning about worming, seizing etc. The tool however I could not find. I found bow string seizing tools and a U shaped light metal tool that wouldn't hold up to sailing demands. Ross I need a tool like yours! How do I make it? Thanks!
Ross, all was right with the world before I checked your posting before going to bed. Instead I was on the internet 2 1/2 more hours learning about worming, seizing etc. The tool however I could not find. I found bow string seizing tools and a U shaped light metal tool that wouldn't hold up to sailing demands. Ross I need a tool like yours! How do I make it? Thanks!
The handle is one inch square oak sawn to a taper that takes it to a quarter inch on the end. There are 5- 3/16 inch holes drilled through the wide face and chamfered on each side The spool is cut out with hole saws. The flanges are about 3 inch by 3/8 inch thick and the drum is 1 1/2inch diameter cut from a 2x4, put the bolt through and glue the three pieces together, sand off the burrs. The axle is a 1/4 inch bolt and the tension is set with a wing nut. The line in threaded in one hole and out the next. The more holes the line runs through the tighter the wrap. I like to used nylon masons twine that I heat to 200 degrees in the oven and pour melted beeswax on until the core is saturated. I do the entire tube just as it comes from the store. Put it on aluminum foil, on newspaper, on a baking sheet so that you don't make a mess and get yelled at.
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