Anyone upgraded their holding tank vent hose?

[rpwillia]

I am thinking about doing this. I asked Peggy in the head forum and she recommended 1" hose. I would really like to get some more ventilation in there to help with the odor. Is there any kind of wind driven vent (like those rotating ones you see on the top of houses) that would fit over a 1" hose and be sturdy?

 

[Witzend]

The fittings on either end will dictate the hose size. If they can't be enlarged than what's the point.

 

[rpwillia]

OK, Has any replaced their holding tank fittings and hose

Witzend, Actually was thinking of replacing all (hoses and fittings) of it if it is not too much trouble.

I am also going to have to replace the pump unit on the head as it is in need of a rebuild. I like what Peggy sez in the Head Mistress forum about the Raritan pump unit, just not sure if the benefits are worth the $281.00 price over the Jabsco $60.00 rebuild.

Perhaps I can get all of the stuff at the same time and get this sh$%^y job over all at once.

 

[sailliny]

Re: OK, Has any replaced their holding tank fittings and hose

I was wondering how bad your odor problem is? We have stopped using salt water and keep a few 2 liter soda bottles with fresh water in the head. If needed we also use the shower faucet. Learn on the “Head Mistress” forum that salt water has a tendency to increase the odor problems. Doing that we don’t have a odor problem anymore. Also some people think that using bleach will help the problem, but that kills the very microbes that you need to break down your waste, so we always use a bio degradable cleaner in the head.
As far as rebuilding the pump unit, I just replace my Jabson with a new unit for $120. The new units now have a “twist and lock” feature, which is nice and I don’t think my stomach can handle opening, cleaning and rebuilding my head pump.

 

[rpwillia]

SailNY - Good Points

I was wondering how bad your odor problem is? We have stopped using salt water and keep a few 2 liter soda bottles with fresh water in the head. If needed we also use the shower faucet. Learn on the “Head Mistress” forum that salt water has a tendency to increase the odor problems. Doing that we don’t have a odor problem anymore. Also some people think that using bleach will help the problem, but that kills the very microbes that you need to break down your waste, so we always use a bio degradable cleaner in the head.
As far as rebuilding the pump unit, I just replace my Jabson with a new unit for $120. The new units now have a “twist and lock” feature, which is nice and I don’t think my stomach can handle opening, cleaning and rebuilding my head pump.

My head odor is not really that bad, but I am always trying to improve it. It is worse right by the tank in the aft port locker in the cockpit. Actually, I am on the Potomac River where it is fresh water, but I always pump it using the shower faucet so that I am also using more water in my holding tank so it gets refreshed regularly. We do add a little bit of chlorine to the water tank to help keep the water a little fresher for our use, but most of it should be evaporating. We do flush a little Rid-X to keep the bacteria healthy. My big reason for wanting a larger vent line is that Peggy the Headmistress recommends it as more air/oxygen help the aerobic bacteria take over and kill the anaerobic bacteria which is what really kills the odors.

For replacing my pump unit, I am thinking of the replacement unit that replaces everything but the bowl. You sound happy with the Jabsco, and honestly I have not had any problems with mine until recently when on occasion it is starting to let liquid leak back into the bowl. I don't get the huge price difference between the Jabsco and the Raritan and can't figure out why people rave about the Raritan so much (it either empties the bowl or it doesn't).

 

[paulj]

Well it would be nice if Peggie would show a picture or a sketch of a typical pump toilet and tank installation on a 30 to 35 foot sailboat in her book.
I may think I know what she is saying but I would have to draw sketch to review it and then have someone with experiance review the sketch. Maybe you could skecth tis ou for me Ray.

The tank vent line should be as short, as straight and as horizontal as possible, with no sags, no
arches and no bends. The minimum I.D of the hose (which is the “standard” size in use today,
but for no reason other than being “standard” in fresh water and fuel tanks) is 5/8”; we
recommend that it be at least ¾”. Ideally, it should be no more than 3’ long. If it has to be longer
or if running the vent line uphill more than 45 degrees off horizontal can’t be avoided or if it’s
impossible to run a vent line that does not go around a corner, increase the size of the vent line to
1” or even larger. If, for instance on a sailboat, the line must go up to the deck, install a second
vent line in order to create cross ventilation or install some mechanical means of forcing air
through the tank. We prefer to put holding tanks in the bow of sailboats—under the v-berth—
because the hull just behind the point of the bow is the only place on the hull except the transom
that will never be under water even when the boat is at maximum heel; it’s the perfect place to
install vent-line thru-hulls, because the thu-hull is always into the wind, forcing air into the vent
line, when the boat is underway or on an anchor or mooring. The vent thru-hull should not be
the same type as a fuel vent thru-hull (a cap with a slit in it), but should be a should be a straight
open bulkhead type thru-hull. On sailboats especially it’s advisable to vent off the top of the tank
and not the side, because heeling can cause the contents of a half-full or more tank to run into the​

vent line.


paulj :troll:

 

[Banooma]

I had a problem with odor and backflow, and rather than do a rebuild of the P.O.'s mess, I installed a replacement Jabsco toilet. That helped some, but the backflow continued, and on close inspection I actually could see my holding tank bulge with each flush! The problem turned out to be due to a buildup of something grey-white and stinky at the vent screen. I replaced my metal, screened, clogged vent with a cheap plastic one with a slit and no screen from Catalina Direct, and everything has been fine.

 

[paulj]

Ray
A quote from a holding tank vendor..


"Vent the tank with as short, straight, and level a line as is possible, with no sags, no arches, and no bends. The minimum I.D of the hose should be 1". Ideally, it should be no more than 5' long. If it has to be substantially longer, or if running the vent line uphill can't be avoided, or if it's impossible to run a vent line that does not go around a corner, increase the size of the vent line to 1½". (In fact, when possible we put 1½" vent lines on all installations. The British Standard MAS 101 actually specifies an 1½" breather or a multiple of breathers meeting the same cross sectional area as an 1½".) If, for instance on a sailing boat, the line must go up to the deck, install a second vent line in order to create cross ventilation, or install some means of forcing air down into the tank. We prefer to put holding tanks in the bow of sailboats, under the v-berth, because the hull just behind the point of the bow is the only place on the hull except the transom that will never be under water when the boat is on heel; it's the perfect place to install a vent line skin-fitting.

The vent fitting should not be the same type as a fuel vent fitting, a cap with a slit in it, but should be a straight open type."

Well here is a short no sag vent line out a thru hull.


paulj :troll:

 

[rpwillia]

Thanks for the pictures

I did take my vent off last year and ensure it was clear and not clogged up with spiders. I think there is a good point to having the vent line somewhere you can get air forced into it to help out the bacteria.

Paul, From your pictures it looks like the tank is metal which should make it fairly easy to drill and install a new vent. In the picture is that the original vent all the way back in the aft port corner?

 

[So Cal Gary]

Paul,

If I'm understanding your photos and notes, you're proposing to relocate the vent fitting to be just above the tank and through the port side of the hull? If that is the case I'd be really concerned that when heeled over the sea (or lake) water will easily flow into and flood the tank.

I agree that the factory set-up can be improved upon--in our case just switching to flushing with fresh water really helped. Plus, we don't use bleach cleaners to clean the head as that will upset the chemistry in the tank. A larger vent hose with a different vent cap would probably help further.

Happy Sailing,
Gary

 

[paulj]

Gary
I was just joking around with Ray about most direct exit route level, no bends....etc .

Ray
The tank is plastic.

I'm in the middle of installing my Xantrex Linklite Battery Monitor ....will get back to vent soon.

paulj :troll:

 

[paulj]

Look at Peggie's response to my pictures today..........

 

[Witzend]

Seems like in order for proper aerobic bacterial action to take place a adequate supply of O2 is necessary. A single vent does not provide for proper air flow. A second vent would create circulation which would provide increase O2.

 

[paulj]

Witzend

I need a sketch of this concept........



ix:


paulj :troll:

 

[rpwillia]

How about forcing air in via a ...

12 vdc aquarium air pump. Something you could switch on or off for force air in. This would oxygenate (like how I used the fancy word) the tank contents and help kill off the anaerobic bacteria that causes the smell.

 

[paulj]

Happy Fourth of July............


paulj :troll: