I have a 331 and am looking to upgrade my stock alternator on the Westerbeke 30b (27hp) with a Balmar. Westerbeke has not been very helpful in providing feedback re: the type of alternator that may fit the tight dimensions Has anyone attempted an upgrade on this particular engine? If so, can you provide some advise on what will fit. Thx so much
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Try Jack Rabbit Marine
Chuck, I have the same engine in my 361 and recently purchased a Balmar from JRM. I had every intention of installing it over the winter - but with lousy weather have not been able to get down there. I am redoing the whole energy system to get ready for cruising and they were extremely knowledgeable and easy to work with Good luck Charlie Gruetzner S/V Angels' Grace
Chuck, I have the same engine in my 361 and recently purchased a Balmar from JRM. I had every intention of installing it over the winter - but with lousy weather have not been able to get down there. I am redoing the whole energy system to get ready for cruising and they were extremely knowledgeable and easy to work with Good luck Charlie Gruetzner S/V Angels' Grace
Did you considered adding a second
alternator. I don't know if this is applicable to your engine, but my 361 came with a Volvo engine and I found that they offered a kit for a second alternator. It was easy to install and included all parts, even the harness. I dedicated the second alternator exclusively to the house batteries, and the original alternator was connected to both the engine battery and the house battery via a battery isolator. I find that this combination has the following advantages: 1) it gives you a redundancy in case of alternator failure. 2) It provides 120 Amp hour source, almost as much as you would get from a large single alternator and 3) in case you need the extra power while motoring you can cut the armature current to the house alternator. Good luck in the project.
alternator. I don't know if this is applicable to your engine, but my 361 came with a Volvo engine and I found that they offered a kit for a second alternator. It was easy to install and included all parts, even the harness. I dedicated the second alternator exclusively to the house batteries, and the original alternator was connected to both the engine battery and the house battery via a battery isolator. I find that this combination has the following advantages: 1) it gives you a redundancy in case of alternator failure. 2) It provides 120 Amp hour source, almost as much as you would get from a large single alternator and 3) in case you need the extra power while motoring you can cut the armature current to the house alternator. Good luck in the project.
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Jose, way to go on the second alternator!!!!
That sure is a nice set up!! Way to go. Makes absolutely100% more sense. Fair Winds Jack Beneteau 411
That sure is a nice set up!! Way to go. Makes absolutely100% more sense. Fair Winds Jack Beneteau 411
What is the size of your house battery bank?
Unfortunately I had to abandon the idea of upgrading the alternator, since the largest battery I can fit is a 4D, in fron of the engine, where you seem to have a gel or agm in the picture. I can only add one 4D and that is not big enough to warrant a bigger alternator -- it would be a waste of money. Where did you physucally place your larger/upgraded batteries?
Unfortunately I had to abandon the idea of upgrading the alternator, since the largest battery I can fit is a 4D, in fron of the engine, where you seem to have a gel or agm in the picture. I can only add one 4D and that is not big enough to warrant a bigger alternator -- it would be a waste of money. Where did you physucally place your larger/upgraded batteries?
What size batteries are you adding?
and what combination and where? On the 331, I can only fit a 4D in fron of the engine, underneath the steps, and a 27 next to the prop shaft (stbd-side) underneath the rear berth. How did you do it?
and what combination and where? On the 331, I can only fit a 4D in fron of the engine, underneath the steps, and a 27 next to the prop shaft (stbd-side) underneath the rear berth. How did you do it?
I have 4X100 AmpHour AGMs
I thought that it was easier on my back to move 100 ampHr batteries than 200's I cant'tell about the 331, but in my 361 I placed two batteries under the flooring of the port lazarete (see photo) and two on the space alongside the shaft under the port side of the rear berth. However, I did not realize at the time that most of the weight of gear and stuff on the 361 is carried on the port side and the boat is currently healing a little bit to port when fully loaded. Although it did not seem to affect boat handling, or speed during the Marion-Bermuda race, because of esthetics I plan to move to the two batteries currently under the berth to the space under the starboard settee. One of my projects waiting for the frost to leave.
I thought that it was easier on my back to move 100 ampHr batteries than 200's I cant'tell about the 331, but in my 361 I placed two batteries under the flooring of the port lazarete (see photo) and two on the space alongside the shaft under the port side of the rear berth. However, I did not realize at the time that most of the weight of gear and stuff on the 361 is carried on the port side and the boat is currently healing a little bit to port when fully loaded. Although it did not seem to affect boat handling, or speed during the Marion-Bermuda race, because of esthetics I plan to move to the two batteries currently under the berth to the space under the starboard settee. One of my projects waiting for the frost to leave.
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Upgrade to Both Alternator and Battery Bank
I upgraded my 331 (w/Westerbeke)as soon as I took delivery. I put 2xT105 in front of motor and 2xt105 in the port locker after I took out the wood panelling cover on the forward side. There is an empty space behind. They were 220 amp 6v connected in series and parallel. This gave me 440 amps enought to take a 100 amp alternator which I installed.The Trojan 105s also weigh 62 lbs so you don't break your back if you have to remove them. This system works very well although you must add an isolator between the house and the 100 amp 12v starting battery which was next to the prop shaft. Hope this helps any questions let me know. Geof Boole
I upgraded my 331 (w/Westerbeke)as soon as I took delivery. I put 2xT105 in front of motor and 2xt105 in the port locker after I took out the wood panelling cover on the forward side. There is an empty space behind. They were 220 amp 6v connected in series and parallel. This gave me 440 amps enought to take a 100 amp alternator which I installed.The Trojan 105s also weigh 62 lbs so you don't break your back if you have to remove them. This system works very well although you must add an isolator between the house and the 100 amp 12v starting battery which was next to the prop shaft. Hope this helps any questions let me know. Geof Boole
Geof, any worry about
the temperature difference between the engine compartment and the port locker. Did you use an alternator regulator with a temperature sensor? and, if so, were do you measure the temperature?.
the temperature difference between the engine compartment and the port locker. Did you use an alternator regulator with a temperature sensor? and, if so, were do you measure the temperature?.
Voltage Regulator
No, I was not concerned. I used a Xantrex 'smart regulator'with the alternator. I don't think it has a temperature sensor.Anyway there did not seem to be a problem. I connected the 'sensing' wire from the regulator to the positive terminal in the port locker battery. I did have one battery fail but it was the one in the locker not the engine compartment which admittedly surprised me at the time.I was told by the battery supplier that it was the battery plates which had separated and was not caused by temperature.
No, I was not concerned. I used a Xantrex 'smart regulator'with the alternator. I don't think it has a temperature sensor.Anyway there did not seem to be a problem. I connected the 'sensing' wire from the regulator to the positive terminal in the port locker battery. I did have one battery fail but it was the one in the locker not the engine compartment which admittedly surprised me at the time.I was told by the battery supplier that it was the battery plates which had separated and was not caused by temperature.
I did it.
I did exactly what you asked. I have a 331 and upgraded the batteries and the altenator. The batteries are lifeline AGM's 4D and Grp 27. The altenator is a balmar 90 series dual foot and I have the max charge regulator. I installed it myself. I rewired the system to have the 4D (in front of the engine) be the house battery. The altenator installation required the universal adjustable mounting arm. The origanal belt won't fit and even with the new mounting arm, sizing up a new belt wasn't easy. I have the max charge outside the engine compartment and attached near the battery switches. While I think this is an improvement to the stock battery/Charging system, I would recommend staying with the original altenator. If the batteries are not charging to your satisfaction then I would uprade the alternator and the regulator. I was sold on the whole concept from the literature in a boating catalog, but I'm not 100% satisfied with the outcome. I had to detune the altenator by changing a command on the programable regulator. I had chronic belt slippage because the altenator was drawing to much off the crank pulley. The instructions recommend detuning if your belt is always slipping. My altenator is only putting out about 55 amps. Any more and the belt will start slipping. While the external regulator is a definite improvement I feel like I spent a lot money for just a little improvement. I would upgrade the batteries and stick with the original altenator.
I did exactly what you asked. I have a 331 and upgraded the batteries and the altenator. The batteries are lifeline AGM's 4D and Grp 27. The altenator is a balmar 90 series dual foot and I have the max charge regulator. I installed it myself. I rewired the system to have the 4D (in front of the engine) be the house battery. The altenator installation required the universal adjustable mounting arm. The origanal belt won't fit and even with the new mounting arm, sizing up a new belt wasn't easy. I have the max charge outside the engine compartment and attached near the battery switches. While I think this is an improvement to the stock battery/Charging system, I would recommend staying with the original altenator. If the batteries are not charging to your satisfaction then I would uprade the alternator and the regulator. I was sold on the whole concept from the literature in a boating catalog, but I'm not 100% satisfied with the outcome. I had to detune the altenator by changing a command on the programable regulator. I had chronic belt slippage because the altenator was drawing to much off the crank pulley. The instructions recommend detuning if your belt is always slipping. My altenator is only putting out about 55 amps. Any more and the belt will start slipping. While the external regulator is a definite improvement I feel like I spent a lot money for just a little improvement. I would upgrade the batteries and stick with the original altenator.
Upgraded 361 with Westerbeke engine
I upgarded the charging system on my B361 with westerbeke 30B3, 27 hp engine. I wound up with the Balmar 90 series, 75 amp alternator, max charge, temp sensor and isolator, as well as the Link 10. The most annoying thing was that the pulley on the Westerbeke engine wound not support the 1/2 inch belt needed for the 100 amp alternator, and Westerbeke did not offer an upgrade.
I upgarded the charging system on my B361 with westerbeke 30B3, 27 hp engine. I wound up with the Balmar 90 series, 75 amp alternator, max charge, temp sensor and isolator, as well as the Link 10. The most annoying thing was that the pulley on the Westerbeke engine wound not support the 1/2 inch belt needed for the 100 amp alternator, and Westerbeke did not offer an upgrade.
Thx Pat - I've come to the same conclusion...
I'm glad to hear your opinion after upgrading your charging system. I've done tons of research and have come to the conclusion that given the space and engine constraints/configuration, I'm better off retaining the original alternator and including a 4D in the engine compartment. I'm going with a Honda EU2000 for the extra needed power
I'm glad to hear your opinion after upgrading your charging system. I've done tons of research and have come to the conclusion that given the space and engine constraints/configuration, I'm better off retaining the original alternator and including a 4D in the engine compartment. I'm going with a Honda EU2000 for the extra needed power
Geof - Where did you get the Batteries???
Geof, I'm also interested in your experience as it relates to the alternator upgrade, which given the Westerbeke 27hp set-up tends to be the real challenge and costly upgrade. What hardware did you replace and which alternator did you install? Also, what modifications did you need to properly upgrade the alternator? Total cost? Thx so much
Geof, I'm also interested in your experience as it relates to the alternator upgrade, which given the Westerbeke 27hp set-up tends to be the real challenge and costly upgrade. What hardware did you replace and which alternator did you install? Also, what modifications did you need to properly upgrade the alternator? Total cost? Thx so much
Alternator belt
Chuck, by going with the 75 amp alternator I was able to stay with the original belt. The larger alternator--100 amp--requires a larger belt, and that would have necessitated an expensive re-machining of the pulleys.
Chuck, by going with the 75 amp alternator I was able to stay with the original belt. The larger alternator--100 amp--requires a larger belt, and that would have necessitated an expensive re-machining of the pulleys.
Gary, did you need to change anything...
...on the engine to fit the Balmar 70 series dual foot? Or was it a perfect replacement unit and fit directly onto the existing hardware? Thx so much
...on the engine to fit the Balmar 70 series dual foot? Or was it a perfect replacement unit and fit directly onto the existing hardware? Thx so much
It fit like a glove
Okay, maybe that's an exaggeration. You'll need the 90-75 saddle mount, and will need some washers, but no special work. The max charge and isolator all fit nicely in the engine compartment. I have high hopes for the Link 10 (everything was installed late last season so I haven't yet put it to a real test--extended fridge use while on the hook). By the way , lots of wires for the Link 10.
Okay, maybe that's an exaggeration. You'll need the 90-75 saddle mount, and will need some washers, but no special work. The max charge and isolator all fit nicely in the engine compartment. I have high hopes for the Link 10 (everything was installed late last season so I haven't yet put it to a real test--extended fridge use while on the hook). By the way , lots of wires for the Link 10.
Any tach problems?
Gary, Any problems with your tachometer working after the installation? I have heard some reports with tach problems after the installation of after market alternator/regulators. Thanks. TJ 2000 B361 3/4 Time
Gary, Any problems with your tachometer working after the installation? I have heard some reports with tach problems after the installation of after market alternator/regulators. Thanks. TJ 2000 B361 3/4 Time
The tach needs to be reset
whenever you change the alternator, but my mechanic had no problem with this...Alternator upgrades are pretty common.
whenever you change the alternator, but my mechanic had no problem with this...Alternator upgrades are pretty common.
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