Anyone know a trick to remove the gear shifter?

[capejt]

Hi all,
I have a 79 H33 that's been sitting at the dock all summer season. The gear shift worked okay in the spring, though it was a little tight, but now it doesn't move at all. I opened up the top of the pedestal and the cables work fine, but the lever doesn't turn... even with a wrench for extra purchase. I removed the section of pedestal with the throttle and gear shift levers. The set screw that keeps the lever from moving forward and backward sheered off so I drilled it out. Seemingly, the lever should just slide out of the housing.. but no! Thinking it might be rusted and frozen in I tapped with a hammer... still no movement. I then wailed on it pretty good with a small sledge. This time I got it to the point where the groove for the set screw is showing, but it won't go any further. Does anybody have any idea how to get this out?
Thanks in advance.

btw- yes, I've tried PB Blaster several times.

 

[Merlin Clark]

Check out CRC Freeze Off. Sold in auto parts stores.
Heat would more than likely get it but probably damage the surrounding surfaces.

 

[jibes138]

If you were able to get it to move laterally to expose the groove can you now get it to turn? I wouldn't be whacking it with a sledge, the housing is a pretty expensive part if it is an Edson. It should just pull out once you remove the set screw. Is it possible drilling it out you didn't drill straight and a remnant of the setscrew got jammed in there and scored the hole and shaft? Also you may have nicked the shaft creating a burr that got jammed in the hole scoring it. If you can get it to move laterally in one direction try moving it back and forth a few times to get it loose, also try some emery cloth on the part you expose to remove any burr or debris. Coat it with some waterproof grease then work it a while. Also try heat, If the housing is aluminum and the shaft steel the housing will expand faster than the steel and make the clearance a little larger, use a hair dryer, a heat gun might take the paint off. The linkage housing assembly is about 380 bucks at Edson.

 

[capta]

Spray it about 25 times over a couple of days, with PB Blaster, and if all your hammering hasn't mushroomed the ends, it should come loose. I've never had anything that could resist PB Blaster AND time.

 

[Ray Bowles]

This is why they make gear pullers in many sizes. It is probably too late to salvage this shaft and heat might damage surrounding items. Dress the end of the shaft, PB blast and get the right sized puller.
Plan B: Buy new shaft and levers.

 

[wufibugs]

If the H33 used the same pedestal as the H31 of the same vintage, you have a Merriman pedestal, and Merriman is long gone. If you do a search, you will find a link to the exploded view of this pedestal. Again, if it's the same, the shift lever is set up differently from the throttle. The shift lever employs a cable support which was eliminated from the throttle side. Having disassembled mine, I can only imagine that when the se screw broke off and you drilled it out, a burr may have been raised somewhere that's holding the shaft from both turning and coming out. If I were you I would tap it back in and take a close look at the shaft before trying to get it out again. I would guess that if Merriman ever machined the lever and associated races to tolerances that could have called for PB or a hammer, those tolerances disappeared a decade ago.

 

[ggrizzard]

Describing the configuration of the levers (Throttle and Gear) will help us determine the brand and possibly a source of replacement parts.

 

[capejt]

Thanks for the replies. To answer a few things, I use a socket wrench socket between the shaft and the hammer (much like I did to separate the flange from the shaft when detaching my prop shaft from the engine). The other thing mentioned a couple times, The shaft hasn't been able to turn at all since the beginning of this ordeal.
I'll try continuing to soak it with PB Blaster and give it some more time. I also might check our that CRC Freeze Off, but I will admit, I've always had good luck with Blaster in the past.
I'm a little shy about using heat (although I did think about it) due to the bushing (Delrin, Teflon, plastic??)
Even though the idea of a burr is a good one, I have managed to get the shaft far enough that the set screw hole and channel are clear of the housing.
At the end of the day yesterday I was ready to just throw in the towel and buy a replacement until I went online and saw that $395 price tag! What, are these things cast in gold something?
I'll try some mild heat toady and see what happens.
Thanks again.

 

[capejt]

Good News (and bad)
The heat trick worked! The shaft came out. The bad news, that plastic bushing melted (which is why I think the shaft finally released). More good news though, I called Edson and they're shipping me a new bushing today... no charge!!
Also, upon inspection, there were no burrs.