Anyone have an ARB fridge?

[bugbitten]

I think my wife's enthusiasm for the boating life would greatly improve if there were always the promise of a cold beer whenever we came aboard; therefore, I've been looking into refrigeration.

I've read some old forum threads and it does seem that getting a portable unit, rather than converting the ice box, might make the best sense. A lot of folks like the Dometic units (I'm looking at around 50 quarts, as I don't want to lug anything bigger). I like their automatic switching between 12/120V. However, the Australian ARB units look appealing, particularly as their 50 quart unit boasts an average current consumption of only TEN watts or so, about one fourth that of the already-impressively-efficient Dometic.

Here's an Amazon listing for the ARB. The reviews look encouraging, although they're mostly from the automotive community. It's a bit bulkier than the Dometic, but not dramatically.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q1INDM/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=automotive

Here are some specifics from the ARB site:

http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Fridge-Freezer-50-Qt-10800472-P3626.aspx#

Here they seem to waffle on the energy consumption, going to a more-realistic "it depends."

Your thoughts/experiences would be greatly appreciated.

John

 

[Rick19354]

I have this Waeco CF-50 on my 9.2A:

http://www.amazon.com/Unknown-Coolm...&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=waeco+fridge+freezer

It's five years old and not a single issue. I've seen then for less money, so shop around, also this is the largest model they make with the 45 watt motor (3.75 amps). It switches automatically to AC once it reads 110 volt current. In summer in Florida, it runs about 60% of time. In fall-spring, about 30%, so it's pretty efficient.

 

[FastOlson]

The amp hour usage will be determined by several factors. Main one is how low the heat gain into your "ice box" really is. Lowering that should be your first condern. Lots of good books and articles on insulation including the lid and how to properly seal the lid.
That will determine how much your compressor will run, and that directly impacts how much power it will take.
The existing standard seems to be the little Danfoss BD 35 or model 50 compressors. Small, efficient, and quiet.

We have two GC batteries for our house bank, and can easily anchor out for two full days and still have ample power to start the diesel, as a for-instance.

Those little Danfoss compressors that look like a football-shaped can are the heart of several systems, including the Frigoboat system I installed almost a decade ago. I went for the higher efficiency "keel cooler" heat exchanger, although it's not really needed in cooler climates.
Ours run about half the time or less and draws about 3.8 amps when running. Our boat has a box somewhat similar to your S2 box, I surmise.

There are no real short cuts to this project....
But done right, the Admiral will be very very (very!) happy, and then ... so will the Captain!

The whole crew will really like capping off the old ice box drain, and never again dealing with the detrius of moldy ice water melt in the bottom!
:dance:

A 36 degree water bottle, beer, or soft drink on a hot day is Outstanding!

I would wonder, FWIW, how much room you have on your boat to add another reefer box, and secure it safely. Nicer to utilize the existing ice box....
Just an opinion, and, YMMV.

Aside: we almost bought an S2 30 (also the A model) before we found our present boat. Nice boats!