I just ordered an assymetrical cruising chute from Banks Sails in Portland. I did this because I have found the 326 to sail poorly at anything close to dead downwind (which we do about 50% of the time on the Columbia!). Has anyone out there used a similar type of sail? How has it worked out? How close to downwind can you get? How controllable is it? How did you attach the tack? How fast did you go (I'm hoping for 6+ knots in winds of about 10 knots)? Thanks! Scott
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It Works
We use one and attach the tack with a block attached to the bowsprit and a line run aft along the rail with blocks attached at intervals. Works great at 120° apparent; more than that gets blanketed by the main, which I sometimes take down. A way to eliminate some of the blanketing is by adding a tack harness that loops around the forestay and holds the tack on centerline. I don't have one yet. Jibe it by letting it fly all the way out in front of the boat when beginning the jibe and trim on the other side. If you don't do this, again the main blankets it and it will want to go aft of the forestay or just plain gets tangled there. You can definately pick up some speed with the sail. It worked well on our 376 too.
We use one and attach the tack with a block attached to the bowsprit and a line run aft along the rail with blocks attached at intervals. Works great at 120° apparent; more than that gets blanketed by the main, which I sometimes take down. A way to eliminate some of the blanketing is by adding a tack harness that loops around the forestay and holds the tack on centerline. I don't have one yet. Jibe it by letting it fly all the way out in front of the boat when beginning the jibe and trim on the other side. If you don't do this, again the main blankets it and it will want to go aft of the forestay or just plain gets tangled there. You can definately pick up some speed with the sail. It worked well on our 376 too.
About the picture...
It's better if you can put that turning block in front of the furler instead of behind it. The tack line won't be as likely to get tangled up with the furler when you jibe. Also, life is usually a little more complicated than shown in the picture -- missing are the bow pulpit, lifelines, anchor roller, etc...
It's better if you can put that turning block in front of the furler instead of behind it. The tack line won't be as likely to get tangled up with the furler when you jibe. Also, life is usually a little more complicated than shown in the picture -- missing are the bow pulpit, lifelines, anchor roller, etc...
Jib sheets?
About the photo, that is a neat device but what do you do with your jib sheets on the genoa while you fly the assymmetrical spinnaker?
About the photo, that is a neat device but what do you do with your jib sheets on the genoa while you fly the assymmetrical spinnaker?
You betcha
Flying the asymetrical is a joy. It's best done about 20 degrees off dead downwind, because you'll simply go faster. Consider it a long tack. If you want to throw the spin out farther from the main to avoid blanketing, you may want to install a spin pole. I have devised one for later-model Hunters that is 8 feet long and extends 3.5 feet off the prow. If you're interested, I can send you the color photos and details, but I'll need a mailing address because the last time I sent it by email my system crashed. bodonovan@vagazette.com
Flying the asymetrical is a joy. It's best done about 20 degrees off dead downwind, because you'll simply go faster. Consider it a long tack. If you want to throw the spin out farther from the main to avoid blanketing, you may want to install a spin pole. I have devised one for later-model Hunters that is 8 feet long and extends 3.5 feet off the prow. If you're interested, I can send you the color photos and details, but I'll need a mailing address because the last time I sent it by email my system crashed. bodonovan@vagazette.com
Genoa jib sheets
I run the jib sheets down inside the ATN tacker and then strap them about 2 ft above the deck to the furled genoa with a bungee cord with snap hooks at both ends of the cord. This keeps the jib sheets out of the way. I also secure the sock line in the same manner. I don't see why this setup would not work with parrel beads as well. I also located the block for the downhaul line forward of the furling drum so that the spinnaker flys in front of the furled genoa. This is a great sail for light air (< 10 kts), above that it is extremely difficult to douse and control.
I run the jib sheets down inside the ATN tacker and then strap them about 2 ft above the deck to the furled genoa with a bungee cord with snap hooks at both ends of the cord. This keeps the jib sheets out of the way. I also secure the sock line in the same manner. I don't see why this setup would not work with parrel beads as well. I also located the block for the downhaul line forward of the furling drum so that the spinnaker flys in front of the furled genoa. This is a great sail for light air (< 10 kts), above that it is extremely difficult to douse and control.
Asymetrical on 336
The sail works great, but buying it was the easy part
The halyard installation created issues because I had to remove the traveler to gain access to add a 4 position deck organizer. Be sure and verify what brand deck organizer you currently have so the holes line up. Also take care to align the new rope clutch with the aluminum mounting plate embedded in the deck (if you boat is make that way). Look up a company called ATN, they have a thing called a "tacker" that wraps around the furled head sail keeping the spinnaker aligned with the boat reducing heel. The ATN snuffing shoot is awsom as well. As for the tack. I added a line tied off to the pad eye on the bow beneith the anchor roller. The line is reeved over the outside of the bow roller through a block that attaches to the tack of the spinnaker. The other end of the line is run back down over the anchor roller again and back to the center cleat. This allows for adjustment of the luff depending on conditions. I am still looking for a more ideal method for this, but this works for now. (photo does not show taker)
The sail works great, but buying it was the easy part
The halyard installation created issues because I had to remove the traveler to gain access to add a 4 position deck organizer. Be sure and verify what brand deck organizer you currently have so the holes line up. Also take care to align the new rope clutch with the aluminum mounting plate embedded in the deck (if you boat is make that way). Look up a company called ATN, they have a thing called a "tacker" that wraps around the furled head sail keeping the spinnaker aligned with the boat reducing heel. The ATN snuffing shoot is awsom as well. As for the tack. I added a line tied off to the pad eye on the bow beneith the anchor roller. The line is reeved over the outside of the bow roller through a block that attaches to the tack of the spinnaker. The other end of the line is run back down over the anchor roller again and back to the center cleat. This allows for adjustment of the luff depending on conditions. I am still looking for a more ideal method for this, but this works for now. (photo does not show taker)Attachments
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